Question Tape/rubber option for apeks DST/DS4 hand wheel

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Messages
169
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Location
NYC
# of dives
200 - 499
Like you, I routinely have trouble getting my apeks first stage off my tank, even after depressurizing it as much as I can. Part of the issue is that the metal wheel is so hard to grip, whereas other brands like scuba pro decided to use a rubber wheel that offers way better grip/leverage.

Because I struggle to turn the knob, I end up needing to twist the first stage itself, which from my understanding is bad since it will somehow loosen or disconnect the 1st stage’s metal part with the threads from the rest of the 1st stage body.

Considering how popular these regs are, has anyone found a reliable way of dealing with this issue, possibly by wrapping tape around it or buying a special purpose “rubber cover”?
 
Is the problem with just a specific tank or all tanks? If a specific tank is causing the trouble, it may be extra dirty or might be damaged. It's not unusual for tank valves to take a hit that warps them subtlety out of true.

It's likely that your DIN wheel needs to be cleaned and the tank valve also needs cleaning. You can do it quick and dirty with a brass wire brush, or more completely by removing the DIN wheel and tank valve and putting them in an ultrasonic cleaner.
 
you could replace with the satin version that has more knurling. or just get some thick epdm rubber bands eg ranger bands.

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Because of the small orifice in the high pressure port it can take a few seconds for the high pressure hose to release all pressure which can make it hard to turn the wheel. Depressurize then leave a few seconds and do it again.
 
You may use 3M autofusion tape around the handwheel
 
I turn the wheel, and the reg also, but at the same time, that's how you do it
Its all about levers and fulcrums
You crack the thread as one unit with leverage just don't overtake the wheel

When chome wears and you become less precious use a Dremel on threads

The big secret really, when you get a feel for how they feel, is to stop doing
screwing as you feel the oring compress as it is the air that does the sealing
not your ham fist

And take your knob to the gunsmith for some chequering then rechrome it
 
Because of the small orifice in the high pressure port it can take a few seconds for the high pressure hose to release all pressure which can make it hard to turn the wheel. Depressurize then leave a few seconds and do it again.

With Apeks regs I see this all the time. As @grf88 make sure it is purged it all the way. Sometime you have to really hold the purge button in for a solid 5-10sec depending on where the second stage lever height is set to fully bleed the system.

Worst case you can order one of the Apeks rubber hand wheels.

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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