Tank valve Thread O-ring failure

[moneysavr]

I have been using FABER steel cylinders for almost 20 years now and have NEVER had an extruded o-ring and the valves are never more than hand tight...

Dude your lucky!

 

[moneysavr]

I too had an extruded o-ring experience with a brand new Worthington LP-85/Thermopro valve right after the first fill. I walked out of the shop, threw the tanks in the trunk, and before I could get the car in gear, she blew. Also, the original yoke o-rings were shot after only 3 dives. The valve o-ring was purple and the yoke o-rings were a blue-ish/gray color.

Valve was loose!

 

[moneysavr]

if LDS had several previous issues with this brand tank, I think they should warn purchasers to watch for this problem (or swap the o-ring from day 1--or just don't sell that tank)

Dude its not the tank,not the valve-AL 80s have a square cut neck to seat orings,the HP steels have a taper take a look,My valve was way loose,Not the valve and not the o-ring,
Geez as said tighten your valves so you see no space between the valve and tank neck and thats it!
And any old diver with all the certs as one posting here should know this is a problem with steel tanks as I asked a (old diver) prior to c- cards and he said um its the person who put the valve on!

Oh by the way my other steel tank the valve was so loose it should of fell off as I had it checked this week!and I did not pop the ring yet but!
as said Tighten your valves to specs in valve bag DuuuuH!
Dive safe,
Girls!
Brad

 

[AndyA]

FYI
I tried to post the other night but it ran late,
ITS NOT A O-RING FAILURE!!
I sent a PM and E Mail to Mike at XS Scuba a owner/ MFG Rep for the Worthington Tank line,I got a call the next day with a e-mail,
As we spoke he told me how a tank valve would of been installed on a Steel tank=JUST LIKE MINE WAS as I watched it be put on wrong! ie. between the legs and three hits to tighten the valve as this works fine with a AL tank but not the steel tanks.
Reason being you need to read the torque specs in the valve bag and the valve needs to sit 360 deg around the tank valve neck as mine in photo was not!
I took my tank to my LDS different then the first one as he used a 2' crescent wrench to crank it down and same thing he replaced the o-ring on my other HP Steel and torqued it down.
Mike at XS Scuba said they were working on a tool to solve this but if you see any gap between your valve and tank neck WRONG! the seat in a steel tank and I did not know this as I don't do vis's is a angle seat, and a AL tank seat is a square seat.
So this is not any failure of HP tanks or the O-Ring as this has happened to other brands. We just need to read the instructions in that plastic bag or the LDS VIS or valve installers.
If any one has questions I can pass Mikes e-mail or PM and he will answer questions as I am no expert I just got the info and thought to pass it on and my LDS did agree with the answers I got.
Dive safe,
Brad I

Seems to me if you use a 2FT torque wrench on a valve (marine brass) you take the chance of stripping the treads. Maybe unknowingly which could cause a problem later, maybe at depth.

Andy

 

[pescador775]

A brass valve will withstand considerable torque. That does not mean we should buy 2 foot wrenches. An 18 inch wrench is more than enough. Only about 40 pound feet is actually needed on an O ringed valve although some specs say 60. But, about brass valves and steel tanks; I am what is loosely called "vintage", which could mean a number of things but here refers to owner of old diving gear. Last year, I removed a couple of manifold valve posts which were inserted in a pair of Healthways tanks. These used 1/2 inch NPT and the valves were original, never removed since installed in 1962. Teflon tape was rarer in those days, instead, the valves were sealed with dreaded pipe dope. I placed one tank in a chain vise which weighs 25 pounds. The vise was bolted to a bench which weighs 200 pounds. I added 100 pounds of barbell weights in the area near the vise. Even so, using a heavy, 18 inch wrench, I could not budge the valve. I built up the area on the floor with blocks so I could squat a bit when leveraging the wrench. The vise and bench lifted off the floor. Added more weight. Finally, was able to move the valve--just a tad at first. Finally, got it moving and removed it with no apparent damage other than a scuff mark. I don't know what torque was actually applied but it felt like plenty.

 

[moneysavr]

[Seems to me if you use a 2FT torque wrench on a valve (marine brass) you take the chance of stripping the treads. Maybe unknowingly which could cause a problem later, maybe at depth.


Andy,
We should use torque specs provided per MFG and if you don't know e-mail and ask!

FYI a new tool is in the works to do this and may make the DEMA show,as it will be for dive shops and Vis inspectors,
Dive safe,
Brad