Tank Valve Leaking From an Odd Area.

[Reef]

I just had my Faber HP100's serviced (VIP, Hydro, and valve cleaning).

Tonight I wanted to verify everything was good for a weekend trip.

I noticed a hiss, but not from the usual, sometimes expected places. The o-rings were both replaced (front and burst disk) on the valve.

After a few more attempts at trying to figure out what was going on I could feel some air coming from under the knob/handwheel area. My valves were fine before I dropped them off. Any ideas? Thank you.

 

[Fishpie]

Sounds like it's leaking from the packing material around the valve stem....usually a teflon washer(s) and an o ring.
Quite common and an easy fix.
Could also be a copper washer leaking.

 

[akdeepdiver]

sounds like the tech removed the valve by tapping it with a hammer and dammaged the working.

 

[Teller]

sounds like the tech removed the valve by tapping it with a hammer and dammaged the working.

I agree, take it back to the tech that did the VIP.

 

[halocline]

It shouldn't leak around the stem when the valve is closed, right? Are you saying it hisses when a reg is connected or, even when the valve is closed? If it's the latter, something's wrong with the seat, but if it only leaks when the valve is open, it's something in the stem. Either way this is another example of why the dive gear industry's policy of limiting parts so that only 'professionals' can service gear is pretty silly.

 

[Reef]

Yeah, it's leaking when the 1st stage is connected and the valve has been opened. I put it in water last night to confirm the area it was coming from.

 

[redacted]

Yeah, it's leaking when the 1st stage is connected and the valve has been opened. I put it in water last night to confirm the area it was coming from.

Depending on how bad the leak is and your dive plan, you may be able to go ahead and use that tank this weekend - it has to be emptied for repair anyways. There is an o-ring and a copper crush washer in there that is likely the problem. That kind of a leak is not uncommon and. while the bubbles may look pretty big, it takes a long time to lose much gas. I would expect to lose no more that 10% from that leak.

 

[Peter_C]

it has to be emptied for repair anyways.

Why is that? The seat should hold back the air. Then the o-rings and such can be replaced. Since the valve was just serviced, the shop should handle the warranty issue no matter what.

 

[The Chairman]

it has to be emptied for repair anyways.

Most stem repairs don't need the tank to be emptied. I have found that more often than not, a simple tightening of the gland nut is all you need.

 

[redacted]

Most stem repairs don't need the tank to be emptied. I have found that more often than not, a simple tightening of the gland nut is all you need.

Yes, that will often work in a pinch. I just prefer to to be able to give the valve a complete inspection when I have to go that far anyway. But my preference is influenced by the fact that such a leak is usually discovered in the water. I have never had one that I could hear on the surface (my hearing is very bad) nor bad enough that I could not continue the dive. I have done that to apply a bit more torque to a bonnet nut that still leaked a little after service.

In this particular case, I was thinking about the OP's planned dive this W/E.