Tank Boots, Boats and DIR

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do it easy

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Messages
5,022
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Location
Chicagoland, USA
# of dives
500 - 999
Last time I checked, tank booties were frowned upon. What do people do with their steel doubles when diving on boats? I dive in the Great Lakes, so salt under the booties is not an issue, but I still wonder...

How do you keep the bottoms from tearing up the deck?
How do you keep the deck from tearing up the bottoms?
Do you take them off for the dive, and put them back on afterwards?
Do you only take aluminum doubles on boats?
Do bootless boats have toe strips to keep the tank from sliding out?
Am I missing something here?
 
I don't have any problems setting them down on a boat. Most dive boats will have some sort of carpet or rubber mat so you won't damage the boat deck. Most dive boats in the area that allow doubles will have some sort of tie downs that will keep the tanks from falling over. I only own steel doubles and don't use tank boots.

DJ
 
Since our boats aren't like the ones in the tropics, they still have the back wall up that you have to climb over to get into the water. Most charters will have hooks or eye bolts on that wall that you can strap your tank down with a good bungee cord or a rubber cord is better. I've never had them slip out or fall. Even stage bottles are secured well.

DJ
 
Unless you're cave diving or doing wreck penetration, AL80s should be your doubles of choice. Problem solved.
 
Derek S:
Unless you're cave diving or doing wreck penetration, AL80s should be your doubles of choice. Problem solved.

So steel tanks are for wrecks and caves eh? What if the first dive is a wreck and then the second is on a debris field or a reef, should I change my tanks?

I think I'll look for another solution, perhaps 2 balloon animals filled with 02.

I would posit that double ALs might be the best choice for warm water or wetsuit diving, I wouldn't portend to know what someone else's choice should be though.

EDIT - Didn't realize this was the DIR forum, having never seen a DIR team in AL tanks let me ask this. Wasn't one of the selling points that you use the same gear for all your dives?
 
Derek S:
Unless you're cave diving or doing wreck penetration, AL80s should be your doubles of choice. Problem solved.


Not true... Here in Monterey most doubles divers dive steels... Lot's of E7-100's and some 95/104's. The dive boat (I usually just dive the Escapade, havent tried the others) has rack/backrest and the bottom of the rack is actually steel so damaging the boat isn't a concern. Worse case scenerio and you sit down short of the rack it's the bench that catches it. If the boat is pitching the crew is pretty good about helping you to your seat and help you secure your tanks and de-kit.

Doubles/singles are bunchied to the rack behind the diver
 
Derek S:
Unless you're cave diving or doing wreck penetration, AL80s should be your doubles of choice. Problem solved.
Alright, I'll take a bite. Please bear with my, my numbers may be wrong:

Inherent Bouyancy (me): +6lbs
Drysuit: +15lbs
Double AL80's (empty): +8lbs
Stainless steel backplate: -5 lbs
DSS wieght plates: -8lbs
Wieght needed to be neutral: 16lbs

Inherent Bouyancy (me): +6lbs
Drysuit: +15lbs
Double LP98s (empty): -2lbs
Stainless steel backplate: -5 lbs
DSS wieght plates: -8lbs
Wieght needed to be neutral: 4lbs

What makes more sense to you?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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