Stupid question about strobes

[verona]

I waited a while before getting a strobe just to get used to diving with a camera in a housing and then operating the housing underwater while diving. I have bought a strobe now but haven't used it yet. Soon though - and doubtless, it will feel like I'm back to the start again. It's like most things - practice and experience are what it takes. Oh, and a bit of patience, which most of us don't do very well!

 

[Dee]

Aloha Janko,
Here are my 2¢. I have been taking pictures since last October and just got my strobe now. If you look in my gallery the only picture taken with the strobe is the shark picture.

How much camera knowledge and diving experience do you have? If you say not too much I would suggest you go for just the camera for a bit and then when you have the hang of that go for the strobe. Just remember, get close to your object. Depending on the strength of the internal strobe it could be enough.
Aloha,
Lisa

I agree with Lisa. Your cameras internal flash is strong enough for good pics within close range. It's best to get totally familiar with your camera to the popint you can change setting effortlessly. The added task load of diving with a camera can be alot when you're new. Don't laod yourself with too much new stuff to learn at one time. Besides, you'll take better pics if you learn it one step at a time, master one thing before moving to the next.

 

[caveseeker7]

Question is this: what exactly does a strobe accomplish underwater, and since my camera allegedly has a built-in strobe does this do the trick?

Is 'strobe' just a word for "bunch of flashes that happen when you push the button that takes the picture"?

Well, a strobe fashes.

Frequently you'll find that in-camera or on-camera strobe lights are referred to as flash lights, while strobe designates off-camera lighting equipment. Form UW to studio light.

Whenever working with lights, the incoming angle equals the outgoing angle when reflected. That's why build-in flash lights cause red-eye (reflection of the red vessels inside the eyes) or backscatter (reflection of particles in the water). You'll get backscatter even in a pool ... . Ideally, you would have a strobe (or two to get even lighting, set at different outputs to get a desired ratio) facing the subject of your image at a 45 degree angle. If you shoot large subject that would mean enormous arms. For wreck, caves, and even large pelagics many a professional photographer or filmer works with other divers who handle the lights.

The further away the strobes are from the lens and the higher their output is, the further the subject can be away from you.
Hence build-in flash lights work best for makro close-ups.

As an alternative to lights in shallow (read well lit) water you can use a correction lens to regain some of the colors. Don't know if they're available for your housing, I know Sony for example offers one for theirs. The disadvantage of colorfilters is that they deduct light, so you will need to make up for that at even shallower depth, or risk blurred images. And the ability to cover distance will deteriate that much quicker, too. Really not that good a solution.

 

[lukeROB]

I agree with Lisa. Your cameras internal flash is strong enough for good pics within close range. It's best to get totally familiar with your camera to the popint you can change setting effortlessly. The added task load of diving with a camera can be alot when you're new. Don't laod yourself with too much new stuff to learn at one time. Besides, you'll take better pics if you learn it one step at a time, master one thing before moving to the next.

Agree also. Don't buy a strobe straight away. By not having one you will soon learn what 'close enough' to a subject is. I got lots of great photos without one, see;

130_3022
121_2112
121_2128
print2

these in my gallery all internal flash. I knew the camera well before getting a strobe and still it was not the easiest thing to work with straight away.