f3nikon
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bertschb:
Strobe for Sony P9 and future cameras
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bertschb
Contributor
If money was no object which strobe would you get? Also, do most strobes have a slave mode or is that a feature found only on high (or low) end models?
f3nikon
Guest
bertschb:
In your case it would have to be the YS-350TTL Duo by Sea and Sea and I have been brought up on Ikelites. Look up Sea and Sea's website. Ikelite DS-125 also good.
Most, not all strobes (high or low end) have the slave function, read the specs. before you buy.
ReyeR
Guest
The most you can do to future-proof your strobes is to get the newer 'digital' ones that also have provision for a sync cord connection. In your case it should also be an 'optical slave' so it'll work with your current P9. These requirements pretty much rule out the Inon D-180 and D-2000 and S&S YS25DX, which don't have a provision for a sync cord connection.
This basically leaves you with the Ikelite DS-50 and DS-125, S&S YS90DX and the Inon Z220 and Z220S. To get the Ikelites to work with your P9 you will need the manual EV controller. The EV controller should also work with future camera setups. The Inon Z220 and 220S will only work at half-power (between - 2 and - 5) with the P9 unless you add the INON Focus light Controller (see Yuzo's website, scroll to the bottom: http://www.uwdigitalcamera.com/English/eDXstrobe.htm).
As far as power is concerned the DS-125 and Z220/220S are the two that are currently 'up there'.
This basically leaves you with the Ikelite DS-50 and DS-125, S&S YS90DX and the Inon Z220 and Z220S. To get the Ikelites to work with your P9 you will need the manual EV controller. The EV controller should also work with future camera setups. The Inon Z220 and 220S will only work at half-power (between - 2 and - 5) with the P9 unless you add the INON Focus light Controller (see Yuzo's website, scroll to the bottom: http://www.uwdigitalcamera.com/English/eDXstrobe.htm).
As far as power is concerned the DS-125 and Z220/220S are the two that are currently 'up there'.
RonFrank
Contributor
With great POWER comes great responsibility 
Most every UW flash I've looked at, has a relatively LOW GN, which is expected in a battery powered portable flash. The INON D-2000 has a GN of 20 at ISO 100/100degrees. For $500 that's not much power. My Nikon SB-800 has a GN of 125/ISO 100 at 35 degrees for comparison purposes, and costs 1/2 as much. Unfortunately it does not work well UW.... :11:
So RU going to be able to *light up* the reef at 30' with ANY one, or even two flashes from 30' away? Unlikely.
One must realize that when using flash the light is going to be STRONGER closer to the flash regardless of where the subject is... So if you plan on lighting up the reef from 20' away, there BETTER be nothing between you and that reef that shows up in the image, because if there is, it going to be a big blownout white blob....
Most sucessful WA images UW do not seem to rely on flash as a main lightsource, if at all, but rather as a fill.
The INON D-2000 sounds like a VERY good start, but get one, and realize that photography is not something where one just throws money at a problem, and you're an expert. You will have to learn to use the equipment.
If there is not enough light, you can bump up the ISO. Unfortunately most consumer digitals max out a ISO 400, but often I see images where the photographer is trying to shoot everything at ISO 100 at a cost of light, and/or action stopping shutter speed. But the blurred, dim images MIGHT be noise free assuming that they actually came out...is the thinking...
IMO you may be better off getting the Sunpak G flash. It will not TTL with DSLR's like the INON, but then again TTL is over-rated, and you don't own a DSLR. NOTHING truely TTL's with ANY consumer non SLR digital that I'm aware of underwater unless one can gets a Flash housing.
The only downside that I see on the G-Flash is the recycle time.
Good luck,
Ron
Most every UW flash I've looked at, has a relatively LOW GN, which is expected in a battery powered portable flash. The INON D-2000 has a GN of 20 at ISO 100/100degrees. For $500 that's not much power. My Nikon SB-800 has a GN of 125/ISO 100 at 35 degrees for comparison purposes, and costs 1/2 as much. Unfortunately it does not work well UW.... :11:
So RU going to be able to *light up* the reef at 30' with ANY one, or even two flashes from 30' away? Unlikely.
One must realize that when using flash the light is going to be STRONGER closer to the flash regardless of where the subject is... So if you plan on lighting up the reef from 20' away, there BETTER be nothing between you and that reef that shows up in the image, because if there is, it going to be a big blownout white blob....
Most sucessful WA images UW do not seem to rely on flash as a main lightsource, if at all, but rather as a fill.
The INON D-2000 sounds like a VERY good start, but get one, and realize that photography is not something where one just throws money at a problem, and you're an expert. You will have to learn to use the equipment.
If there is not enough light, you can bump up the ISO. Unfortunately most consumer digitals max out a ISO 400, but often I see images where the photographer is trying to shoot everything at ISO 100 at a cost of light, and/or action stopping shutter speed. But the blurred, dim images MIGHT be noise free assuming that they actually came out...is the thinking...
IMO you may be better off getting the Sunpak G flash. It will not TTL with DSLR's like the INON, but then again TTL is over-rated, and you don't own a DSLR. NOTHING truely TTL's with ANY consumer non SLR digital that I'm aware of underwater unless one can gets a Flash housing.
The only downside that I see on the G-Flash is the recycle time.
Good luck,
Ron
f3nikon
Guest
Most sucessful WA images UW do not seem to rely on flash as a main lightsource, if at all, but rather as a fill.
break
IMO you may be better off getting the Sunpak G flash. It will not TTL with DSLR's like the INON, but then again TTL is over-rated, and you don't own a DSLR. NOTHING truely TTL's with ANY consumer non SLR digital that I'm aware of underwater unless one can gets a Flash housing.
The only downside that I see on the G-Flash is the recycle time.
Good luck,
Ron[/QUOTE]
Very good points, esp. about fill lighting. In the case of the G-flash, with a fully charged unit, the recycle time may faster than the digital camera's shutter lag time. So the strobe maybe ready before to camera is ready to take the next shot. Recycle time is really a problem with motor drive film cameras.
TTL is over rated and over use, I do not even trust in on land shots. Its not the magic bullet.
break
IMO you may be better off getting the Sunpak G flash. It will not TTL with DSLR's like the INON, but then again TTL is over-rated, and you don't own a DSLR. NOTHING truely TTL's with ANY consumer non SLR digital that I'm aware of underwater unless one can gets a Flash housing.
The only downside that I see on the G-Flash is the recycle time.
Good luck,
Ron[/QUOTE]
Very good points, esp. about fill lighting. In the case of the G-flash, with a fully charged unit, the recycle time may faster than the digital camera's shutter lag time. So the strobe maybe ready before to camera is ready to take the next shot. Recycle time is really a problem with motor drive film cameras.
TTL is over rated and over use, I do not even trust in on land shots. Its not the magic bullet.
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