steel tanks refinish?

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DiabloBlanco

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Location
Southern California
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I just don't log dives
Can anyone tell me a place in SOCAL that I can get some older steel tanks refinished? Also what is the best material to get them refinished with?
Thanks
J
 
You should ask PSI about the best materials to refinish.
They set the bar for Cylinder inspection and run classes for cylinder inspectors.
(Although there are some who don't get certified to inspect)
They're very knowledgeable and understanding of tank questions.

PSI / PCI
email: psi@psicylinders.com
 
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I had 4 Steel 72's refinished at a place called Zinc Nation in Anaheim CA, I think it was about $40 per tank. They did a great job. They sand blasted the tanks, then coated them with a hot zinc spay. they looked great. I then painted the tanks with a oil based boat paint. I think I put on 3 coats of paint. I use the tanks as doubles beach and boat diving. The paint and zinc coating has held up great to all of my abuse.
 
I had 4 Steel 72's refinished at a place called Zinc Nation in Anaheim CA, I think it was about $40 per tank. They did a great job. They sand blasted the tanks, then coated them with a hot zinc spay. they looked great. I then painted the tanks with a oil based boat paint. I think I put on 3 coats of paint. I use the tanks as doubles beach and boat diving. The paint and zinc coating has held up great to all of my abuse.

I looked at Zinc Nation's video of Zinc metalizing.
I would strongly suggest not doing this unless you consult PSI.
The way Zinc Nation does it, is they heat up the metal while applying the zinc coating.
You should NOT HEAT your cylinders in anyway if you can help it.

The maximum operating temperature of a scuba cylinder is 130F.

Any temperature beyond that may compromise the structural integrity of the steel.
It will definitely be worse for an aluminum.

ASK PSI about this before commiting. Even if Zinc Nation says it's fine, they don't do exclusively scuba cylinders. It wouldn't hurt to get a second opinion.
I'll shoot PSI an email myself and check with them.
 
I looked at Zinc Nation's video of Zinc metalizing.
I would strongly suggest not doing this unless you consult PSI.
The way Zinc Nation does it, is they heat up the metal while applying the zinc coating.
You should NOT HEAT your cylinders in anyway if you can help it.

The maximum operating temperature of a scuba cylinder is 130F.

Any temperature beyond that may compromise the structural integrity of the steel.
It will definitely be worse for an aluminum.

ASK PSI about this before commiting. Even if Zinc Nation says it's fine, they don't do exclusively scuba cylinders. It wouldn't hurt to get a second opinion.
I'll shoot PSI an email myself and check with them.

130? I guess you have never seen a tank out in the sun near the equator. The danger temp for aluminum is 250F, steel is much higher, more near 600-800+F depending on alloy.

If your tanks are already galvanized, you don't need to re-galvanized them. If you want to paint them, lightly sand the surfaces to remove most (not all) of the zinc oxide that has formed, then either apply one of the cold galvanize paints or a good 2 part epoxy primer. Then apply a good polyurethane top coat. If you are near any aircraft finishing see about having them painted with a MIL-PRF-23377 or MIL-PRF-85582 epoxy primer then top coated with a MIL-PRF-85285 poly paint. This is the NAVY aircraft paint coating system. Done right and it can look like this:

72ssmall.jpg
 
Gilldiver, where did you get those numbers?

Allow me to clarify
I got the number of 130F as the maximum operating temperature for filling a cylinder.
That's our standard for UCSC Fill Station Operators.
I merely take it as what it is and don't question it.
The manual also says that you should not store cylinders in temperatures that exceed 130F.
So as for the cylinders near the equator: personally I wouldn't want to use them. But that's just me. :D

But the temperature for using a cylinder on a dive will be different from that. I don't know what that number is.

I sent PSI an email and will post what they say about the process here.
 
Whatever Faber paints there tanks with pops off bad whenever they are stamped for hydro. Mabye consider having them tested if they are close to being due before putting your finish on them.
 
Thank you to everyone's input on this, I knew I could count on my SB friends , Hey Gill what size are those doubles on your response?
Thanks again
 
I think the 130 is for cylinders that are filled and under internal pressure. When you paint them, they are empty ( I hope). For powder coating alum cylinders ( which I dont personally recommend) you have to use low temp powder that bakes on at about 250 while the steel tanks can be baked at the normal powder coat temps.
I would recommend using one of the cold paint methods mentioned above.

Scott
 
Some businesses that hydro tanks can also refinish or paint them. I sent an old steel 72 out for hydro to a shop in Simi Valley (can't find the name) and they powder coated it white for a very reasonable charge above the hydro cost. The exterior has held up very well over the last ten years.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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