SS Spring Straps

[headonkey]

Stephen Ash you were right! I have to make a trip tomorrow because I got 2 shackles instead of 2 pair. Blah....

Wayward did you put loctite on the screws or the knots?

 

[Wayward Son]

Screws.

 

[costi]

FWIW:
I also place a nylon bushing (from the local hardware store) onto the shaft of the screw as a spacer between the spring loop and the screw. Just takes up some of the slop. Haven't as of yet had any problems using the shackles.
Good luck!
Bob

 

[headonkey]

I have them assembled not except for the cave line. I'll take some pics for you guys.

 

[Dectek]

No Loctite needed. After you have tightened the screw to where you are happy with it just tap the end of the screw with a center punch and it will mushroom the threads out a tad.
This will keep the screw from backing out on it's own but will allow you to remove the screw with only slightly more torque needed to remove the screw without this process. I know there is a technical name for this but I do not know what it is. (Peen?)
This is a common practice with the hinge screw on eyeglasses. If loctite was used then it would bind up the hinge.

 

[kawaboy]

Hi all

Here is another version of this DIY project.

http://www.diveoz.com.au/diy/read_story.asp?story=5

Cheers

Joe

 

[yak]

I started out using the wire on the fin post, bit didn't feel that they would last that long. I've since switched to ss s-hooks from McMaster-Carr. Here's the finished product:

Then after reading GratefulDiver's post about a spring letting go at depth in Cozumel, I decided to add a zip-tie as an on-board repair kit:

 

[reefduffer]

I've added a minor finishing enhancement (at least to my mind) to the
SS shackle attachment. After attaching I cover the shackle bolt with
heatshrink tubing. The purpose is primarily belt-and-braces redundancy
to keep the bolt from working loose. That's not based on any observed
problems, just paranoia about any simple bolt/nut connection, even though
the shackle tension sort of acts as a locknut, and even given the use of
Loktite.

I saw an earlier post suggesting swageing the end of the bolt with a
centerpunch, but I'm not sure I'd get that right and still have it be
removable. I can always cut the heatshrink off.

It also protects the bolt from getting banged and scratched so that it
might be hard to remove, protects the cave-line safety cord from
abrasion, and makes for a smoother, less snag-prone result.

I used a 7/8" length of 3/4" (preshrunk diameter) tubing.
The stuff I used was what was available at Frys, but chasing it down, it's at
Heat Shrink Tubing 4' Lengths

It's made of polyolefin, which is a pretty broad category of plastic,
but generally chemical and salt water resistant, and pretty tough stuff.
Operating temps -55 to 135 degC (covers most diving conditions :14, and
shrink temp is 90 degC, so a hot hair dryer will work (I've tested it),
although I use a heat gun at home. It shrinks up to 50%. (I also use the
3/8" size to finish knots in bungee).

I anticipate that some won't care for the hidden bolt that can't be
inspected or cleaned, similar to objections to hose strain reliefs.
OK, I can see the argument, and anyone considering this should be
mindful of it and make their own choice, but I'd rather have it wrapped
up this way.

The photos show it applied to the very nice straps made by Scubaboard's
own Wayward Son. The preshrunk tube will just fit over the shackle and
plastic spring sleeve, which you need to do before attaching at least
the second shackle.

The first photo shows the heatshrink over the sleeve after shackle bolt
attach. The second shows it positioned prior to hitting it with the
heat gun. The third is the finished result.

 

[Wayward Son]

I dunno that it's needed, but it looks good.

 

[wjknobles]

just to toss in my .02

when i made my spring straps i ran a small bungee through the spring instead of cave line ... works great