Some education on Manifolds, please ...

[TSL]

In an effort to facilitate future gear upgrades/changes, it occurred to me that while I only need 200 bar manifolds at present, why couldn't I just purchase 300 bar maifolds and have the burst discs changed out to the lower bar settings for now. My firsts are all DIN now anyway. Seems to me that changing back to the 300 bar burst discs later, rather then having to purchase new manifolds, makes more economical sense.

Thoughts?

Allow me to thank you in advance for your guidance.

Kindest regards.
TS Lewis

 

[masterof0]

I am saying this out loud to make sure that I understand this correctly. If I am incorrect, I am sure someone will say something....

From my understanding, the 200 bar vs 300 bar has nothing to do with the pressure of the tank, but has become a naming convention that represents the type of threads of the valve. A 200 bar valve is a "shallower" valve that typically has an adapter that can convert it between DIN and yoke. The 300 bar valve is a deeper valve that allows for "better" seating of the treads to reduce the risk of failure (no adapter available to work with yoke regs). With that said, these ratings have nothing to do with the pressure rating. The pressure rating is a direct reflection of the burst disks not the tread type. (i.e you can by 200 or 300 bar valves with 4400 psi disks). So, what I am getting at is if you have no need for yoke inserts, then you are just as well off getting the 300 bar valves, just make sure you get ones that have the appropriate pressure rating to match your tanks (lp/hp).

Here is a link that may do a better job of describing it than i did (and answer other questions you may have)....
http://www.divegearexpress.com/library/valves.shtml

 

[TSL]

Wow. Thx. Wish I'd found that article earlier on my own, without having to pester folks.

Think I have what I am after. I'll leave the thread open for a bit to allow for other perspectives. Won't be laying out the cash for new manifolds until next month any way.

Cheers.
TSL

 

[Thunder Bay Minnow]

I DO have a yoke adapter for my 300 Bar 1st stage.

 

[Gombessa]

The 300 bar valve is a deeper valve that allows for "better" seating of the treads to reduce the risk of failure (no adapter available to work with yoke regs).

The first part is incorrect, but the parenthetical is right on. There is no better seating, and the two additional threads don't add anything to the strength of the connection. It's just to make them mechanically incompatible with any existing 200 bar regs or adapters at the time.

Personally, I'd go with a 200bar manifold. It's easier/faster to get the first stage on and off, if you're in a pinch you can use a yoke insert and reg, and the thread cover sticks out much less so there's a smaller chance of deforming the valve if the tanks happen to fall or some other mishap occurs.

I DO have a yoke adapter for my 300 Bar 1st stage.

It doesn't matter whether your regulator has a 300bar connection or not; the limitation is built into the tank side. The "yoke" of a yoke adapter or yoke reg is not long enough to go around the extra threads of the 300bar tank valve.

 

[marchand]

I would also go for a 200 Bar manifold because it is so much faster to screw in the first stage than with a 300 Bar manifold.

That said, if you do want a 300 Bar manifold I would be happy to sell you a new/un-used Dive Rite manifold for $170 + shipping

 

[masterof0]

I DO have a yoke adapter for my 300 Bar 1st stage.

They make yoke adapters for 300 bar valves, but they are for fills only. They are not designed to be used while diving. If they do have ones for used with a yoke reg, I am not aware of it.

 

[WD8CDH]

There are also some (a very few) older DIN regulators that are rated to 300 bar but have what is now called a "200 bar" (5 thread) fitting so they won't thread into a "300 bar" (7 thread) manifold.

Only the first 2 to 3 threads are holding the pressure so the extra threads don't effect pressure handling capability. I have personally used the"200 bar" valves on 7,500psi titanium tanks.

Personally, I feel that unless you have a real need to create an incompatibility, always use a "200 bar" valve. It is more versatile and easier to use with the same strength.

By the way, one of my most favorite regulators, the Poseidon Cyklon 300 is rated to over 300 bar but most will only fit "200 bar" valves. Later Cyklon 300 regulators had the longer thread "300 bar" DIN connection but no other changes. It was actually the earlier model that I used at 7500psi.

 

[TSL]

Thank you one and all for your time and thoughts. I have a plan now.

Me do good with plan. Me need plan to see progress happens. Me go nutters if with no plan.

Kindest regards.
Todd Lewis

 

[TSandM]

We were at the dive site the other day, putting gear together, and the most common comment I heard was, "God, I hate 300 bar manifolds. I will NEVER own another 300 bar manifold. I will never buy another 300 bar manifold."

FWIW.