Small leak from tank 1st stage
- Thread starter Richie1088rich
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The leak can be due to several things. Start with the easiest and most probable. Clean/inspect the o-ring and its' groove and try again. If you have one, try with another o-ring. Chances are that the leak will stop.
If not, check the valve. Does it look ok externally (no bumps/cracks/deformations)?? There is a flat round surface where the o-ring of the first stage seals. Check if it is smooth and clean and if there are any marks there. It might be dirty in which case you can clean it with some vinegar/water or soap/water solution. Don't forget to rinse it with plenty of clean water. Don't try to scratch dirt off with anything harder than a toothbrush or a wooden pick (dental pick or similar). Don't use metal objects (screw drivers, knife, spatulas etc) as they can scratch/destroy the sealing surface for good.
Good luck
If not, check the valve. Does it look ok externally (no bumps/cracks/deformations)?? There is a flat round surface where the o-ring of the first stage seals. Check if it is smooth and clean and if there are any marks there. It might be dirty in which case you can clean it with some vinegar/water or soap/water solution. Don't forget to rinse it with plenty of clean water. Don't try to scratch dirt off with anything harder than a toothbrush or a wooden pick (dental pick or similar). Don't use metal objects (screw drivers, knife, spatulas etc) as they can scratch/destroy the sealing surface for good.
Good luck
GJC
Contributor
I would replace the o ring first and make sure you are using the correct size o ring. If the service tech replaced the o ring, it could have a defect or could be the wrong size. If they didn't replace it, it might just need to be replaced.
If you still have a leak, try your reg on a different tank. If no leak on the new tank then you probably have salt, corrosion or a nick in the sealing surface in the tank valve. Clean as above. If there is a nick in the sealing surface, just replace the valve. New valves are not that expensive and it's easier than trying to fix the surface of the old valve.
If the valve leaks on the new tank with a new o ring, something is up with that newly serviced first stage or DIN fitting. Make sure the DIN fitting is tight on the first stage. If there is still a leak, bring it back to where it was serviced and ask them to fix the leak.
If you still have a leak, try your reg on a different tank. If no leak on the new tank then you probably have salt, corrosion or a nick in the sealing surface in the tank valve. Clean as above. If there is a nick in the sealing surface, just replace the valve. New valves are not that expensive and it's easier than trying to fix the surface of the old valve.
If the valve leaks on the new tank with a new o ring, something is up with that newly serviced first stage or DIN fitting. Make sure the DIN fitting is tight on the first stage. If there is still a leak, bring it back to where it was serviced and ask them to fix the leak.
broncobowsher
Contributor
O-ring is my first guess. Try a different tank (for a different valve) for the second. Those are the two super easy things to find.
After that it is careful attention to detail and the magnifying glass.
After that it is careful attention to detail and the magnifying glass.
Is your regulator even properly seated? Is that truly the design; or why is so much thread visible on that valve? Mine are seated snuggly and no threads are visible.
Other than that, I would tend to agree that it is an o-ring issue -- and the cheapest of fixes, if that is the case . . .
That's because probably it is a 300bar regulator fitted on a 200bar valve.
300bar DIN regulators have more threads i.e. they are longer. They can be attached and seal on either 200bar or 300bar valves.
200bar DIN regulators on the other hand have fewer threads i.e. they are shorter. The can seal on a 200bar valve, but there are not enough threads to seal on a 300 bar valve.
It could be the o-ring against the body on the DIN fitting. Just because the regs have been serviced doesn't mean they were done right. A hair or small piece of dirt can cause the fitting not to seal. Did you get the old parts back?
I've seen regs that "were just serviced" leak from various places. Which is why they then got sent to me to do. Opening them up, I've found corrosion not cleaned up, old or even "counterfeit parts" used, o rings nicked, even grit in them that the previous servicer never bothered to take care of.
I know that one all too well -- from corrosion to counterfeit items (a "cookie cutter" diaphragm of butyl rubber, one one occasion); to missing parts; or improper o-rings..
This was from a client's eBay purchase, concealed by a rubber cap, in the original listing, and had paperwork, "documenting" that it had been serviced within the same year. No mention was ever made of it having not seen an ultrasonic cleaner since Reagan; of it missing a valve needle(!) or it having been backed over, by a big American car with tail fins.
It's on my wall of shame, next to some rat-eaten FFM parts . . .
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If the XL-4 continues the Apeks tradition an incorrect o-ring is a pretty good possibility. They use a 111 o-ring which is close but not quite the same size as many brands. The wrong o-ring will sometimes seal but has a habit of falling out as it is slightly smaller.
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