Simple Green vs Crystal Simple Green

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I use Blue Gold for cleaning scuba gear, tanks, regs, hoses, etc. Whatever you use, hot water is the key to many parts of the process. It will loosen the oil, and dry the parts quicker.
 
Blue Gold is also my preferred cleaner, especially for steel tanks as I've never had issues with flash rust with Blue Gold.

===

My understanding is that Simple Green met NASA requirements for O2 cleaning in terms of performance, but the company saw no benefit as the purity and packaging requirements were such that the comparatively small amount NASA would buy would not justify the additional procedures and cost. It's a case of government specifications getting out of hand and preventing the use of an effective off the shelf product.
 
I use simple green ( Normal) I have yet to die. Just saying. I do like the idea of Crystal not having the fragrance.
 
There is an interesting site on the web

CleanerSolutions Database - A Simple Solution for Solvent Substitution for Surface Cleaning.

There you can compare various cleaning solution alternatives to solvents, most are independently tested. If you go to the vendor search on the left you can add Blue Gold, Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green. It turns out that Blue Gold and Crystal Simple Green are the safeest whilst Crystal Simple Green is way ahead of the other two solutions in terms of efficacy. It was proved effective in 18 out of 31 tests whilst Blue Gold was only effective in 8 out of 26!

It has persuaded me.
 
When I am working on old metal regs that have not been well maintained in the past I soak the parts in a quart size container filled with warm tap water, 2oz of Simple Green and 2oz of white vinegar. This will bring chrome covered brass back to like new condition.
 
When I am working on old metal regs that have not been well maintained in the past I soak the parts in a quart size container filled with warm tap water, 2oz of Simple Green and 2oz of white vinegar. This will bring chrome covered brass back to like new condition.

Do you have any problem with the vinegar taking off the chrome if you leave it in too long like we do when you use vinegar in a sonic bath?
 
Do you have any problem with the vinegar taking off the chrome if you leave it in too long like we do when you use vinegar in a sonic bath?

I have never had that problem and I am usually doing this on old all metal regs that have not been well maintained so they really need a good long soak to get them clean. Maybe the Simple Green is preventing the vinegar from doing too much damage? This method is just a way to clean metal parts without a sonic bath. Perhaps vinegar in a sonic bath may be over kill? I have no experience using a sonic bath so I am only guessing about that aspect.

PS: Keep in mind that I am doing this with regs made in the late 60s to early 70s so the regs may just be of a better quality then what is being produced today. Could just be a better quality of chrome, a higher quantity used or both.
 
Be careful using a too concentrated vinegar solution for too long ... don't ask ... :)

You can test solution and timing with a piece of aluminum foil - leave it in the solution and check at measured intervals. Note when you start to see tiny pin holes in the foil. Back *way* away from the noted time and concentration for soaking.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom