Simple, Brass SPG's - where?

[JamesK]

Originally posted by WreckWriter


DIR is about simplicity. There's no reason for the boot therefor there's no boot. If you whack/crush your SPG with enough force to bust a brass housing, a thin rubber boot isn't going to save it.

Tom

Hmm, maybe I was told wrong.

 

[Dee]

Originally posted by WreckWriter


DIR is about simplicity. There's no reason for the boot therefor there's no boot. If you whack/crush your SPG with enough force to bust a brass housing, a thin rubber boot isn't going to save it.

Tom

If you're whacking/crushing your SPG that hard, you have other problems more pertinent than having a rubber boot or not! I can understand the idea behind thinking a few bubbles may be trapped air but all it takes is a little attention and a very few minutes to notice that the bubbles haven't stopped and you may have a real leak.

For my recreational diving, that one DIR rule I'll skip.

 

[WreckWriter]

Originally posted by JamesK


Hmm, maybe I was told wrong.

Or maybe I was. I don't consider myself an expert on the topic, just following what I understand to be the concept. The reason you gave may be the stated reason.

Tom

 

[Fetch]

A spg without a boot really does make it easier to see leaks (personal experience, I didn't tighten mine very well), and is a bit easier to adjust and tie off. That said, I'm more irritated with the 1000 PSI gradiation on my OMS, than I would be about a boot. Does the Dive-Rite do 100PSI markings?

Jeff

 

[O-ring]

I think Tom's logic makes sense...if there is no compelling reason to put the boot on, why put it on? The SPG is pretty tough anyway and making it larger (less streamlined) and adding another part to the mix just doesn't make sense.

 

[swedish diver]

well, i'm all in-line with the DIR-philosophy of minimalism and safety, but removing the boot, in my opinion, is overkill. A rubber boot works well as chock absorber, and there are more serious things than a slow leak, which could happen to your PG if it gets a mechanical chock. The needle could pop, or the spring. Also, gaps between the glass and the rim of the housing could result, not being detected until it's too late.

Why not start with removing the thing which makes the PG rotate (swivel in swedish, don't know the gizmo's name in english)? After all, that is the part which most ofently ****s up on the PG. The o-rings are often worn out... After all, it works just as well without swivel, you just set it in an angle which makes it possible to read, no matter your position (entanglement, etc) in the water. If someone else wants to read it, they will have to BEND the HP hose, which isn't very heavy work.


Personally I dive without the boot, since my PG came without one. If you think my arguments are weak / false, don't hesitate to post, I would really like to hear the arguments (except for the above) supporting the boot-less theory, maybe you can even convince me.

/Kristian

 

[WreckWriter]

Originally posted by swedish diver
(swivel in swedish, don't know the gizmo's name in english)?/Kristian

oddly enough it's swivel in English too...... but it's shock rather than chock

Tom

 

[MikeFerrara]

No boot for me. One of the things we do as part of our safety drill is a bubble check. This is when we want to spot a leak not later, not even a little later. Other than that the boot is just bulk without reason.

 

[TexasMike]

Originally posted by Fetch
Does the Dive-Rite do 100PSI markings?

Jeff

Yes, the D-R SPG marks off pressure in 100 psi increments, so it makes it very easy to glance at it and know that you are "exactly" 2100psi. It's also possible to figure to 50 psi increments since a continued look at the guage will help you determine if the needle is right on a mark or between it.

 

[happybuddha]

I have an Apeks brass spg, its marked in 10bar (147psi) increments. I see on their website it comes with rubber housing but I bought mine 3 years ago without a rubber housing. Never had a problem with not having rubber housing and like it without it.