I have done all my sidemount diving with Al80s and Al40s. What adjustments are typically needed when diving with LP80s and LP100s? I assume that length of bungee, height and rotation of lower boltsnap are all changing. I use loop bungee setup and xDeep Tec Stealth 2. I know that every diver is different and that perfect set up requires personalized in water fine tuning but wanted to get directional advice to get started before the fine tuning. Thank you!
Sidemount: switching from aluminum to steel cylinders
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clownfishsydney
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- I assume that length of bungee, height and rotation of lower boltsnap are all changing. I use loop bungee setup and xDeep Tec Stealth 2.
Yes, I am referring to sidemount. I assumed that posting in the sidemount forum should be enough.
You may need thicker bungees for steel as well. Really heavy steel might require a butt plate.
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attachment will be best done with the drop rings on the waist strap where you attach the butt pouch. Don't even try to get them on the d-rings. Lower attachment can stay where it is if you're in a drysuit which will help with the bungee problem, but you'll be pretty foot heavy so if you're in a wetsuit you may choose to either lower the bands a bit or put some trim weights on the top of your shoulders.
Bungee will be too loose so either swap to thicker bungee if it's a more permanent switch, or can shorten the existing bungee temporarily.
The gas plays a pretty large role. I put LP85s+Nx32 on my drop-Ds, but 18/45 goes on the hip rings because the tails lift (though that will also depend on the band height, so very personal). Clocking of the clip & bungees are related, so you will have to try it and see if you are getting dug in the ribs. FWIW, I use the 6mm stock bungees on the Stealth.
J-Vo
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I use a stealth tech with custom skeleton harness. I use the same setup for all tanks. 8mm bungie, sliding Ds, and Drop Ds.
For steel (Faber LP85,LP108) the bolt snap is clocked to the valve post. With nitrox they go on the drop D, with TRIMIX they go on sliding Ds.
For AL80s I clock it at about 45 between the post and the back of the valve. 80s always go on the sliding Ds.
For AL40s I clock the bolt snap behind the valve and it is a few cm higher on the cylinder. Clipped to sliding Ds that stay up front start to finish.
This is all for fresh water, I expect in salt water the LP steels would always go on the sliding Ds, while HP steels would be similar to the above. I've only used AL80s in salt water, so can't confirm.
For steel (Faber LP85,LP108) the bolt snap is clocked to the valve post. With nitrox they go on the drop D, with TRIMIX they go on sliding Ds.
For AL80s I clock it at about 45 between the post and the back of the valve. 80s always go on the sliding Ds.
For AL40s I clock the bolt snap behind the valve and it is a few cm higher on the cylinder. Clipped to sliding Ds that stay up front start to finish.
This is all for fresh water, I expect in salt water the LP steels would always go on the sliding Ds, while HP steels would be similar to the above. I've only used AL80s in salt water, so can't confirm.
In salt water LP85/50 go on the drop D with boltsnap just on the handle side of clocked to the valve opening. However if they get very low I'll put them on sliding D's.
Currently using 6mm bungee for all cylinders.
Currently using 6mm bungee for all cylinders.
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