Scuba-Stu
Contributor
Depends on what you shoot. You can always try bouncing the light off another object if your in real close.
Shutter and Speed F-stop Help for Strong Ambient Light
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louisianadiver
Contributor
For wide angle, the total photo is a combination of 2 exposures--the main subject (which is primarily lit by the strobe) and the background (which is lit by ambient light). My approach is to come up with a good strobe exposure based on strobe power, f-stop, and distance (almost always 3 apparent feet for me). This can be determined by trial and error or using your strobe's guide number (being a longtime Nikonos user helps in estimating distances). So, the aperture and strobe power is set first. The ambient is controlled by the shutter speed, which will not affect the strobe exposure. An extra meter (such as a Sekonic) is handy for the ambient exposure, but I've found that I can pretty much guess shutter speeds. At ISO 100, start at f8 and a shutter speed of 1/100 when shooting 45 degrees toward the surface in blue water. Does this make sense? -Clay
OP
hutterw
Registered
Alcina nice sticky. Looks like a lot of very useful information and I will review it in detail.
Okay, I hope this attachment worked. It also appears that jpg files can be as large as 400K.
This picture was shot with a shutter speed of 1/160, f-stop of 3.2 and ISO 80. I know the Scorpionfish is a dark red/rust color. If I could do this over I would set the f-stop back one or two stops. My assessment is I am shooting mostly ambient light a very little strobe light. Any issue with my camera housing is the LCD view port is tinted brown and pictures are very difficult to review underwater.
[FONT="]What is everybodys opinion?[/FONT]
Okay, I hope this attachment worked. It also appears that jpg files can be as large as 400K.
This picture was shot with a shutter speed of 1/160, f-stop of 3.2 and ISO 80. I know the Scorpionfish is a dark red/rust color. If I could do this over I would set the f-stop back one or two stops. My assessment is I am shooting mostly ambient light a very little strobe light. Any issue with my camera housing is the LCD view port is tinted brown and pictures are very difficult to review underwater.
[FONT="]What is everybodys opinion?[/FONT]
Attachments
My thoughts are two things. First it looks as though your internal strobe didn't fire because of the strong ambient light. If you go to your original file and look at your EXIF data it will tell you if the internal strobe fired. In a case like this you might have to make sure you have the strobe settings in the camera to force a fill flash.
My second thought is, if your internal flash fired, for some reason the YS110 didn't. I see no evidence of a flash in that photo.
My second thought is, if your internal flash fired, for some reason the YS110 didn't. I see no evidence of a flash in that photo.
parabolic
Contributor
hutterw
The Exif data for the image you posted says that the Flash fired but I sure don't see any evidence of that. Perhaps you were just too far from the subject, although for that wide of an aperture there should be some indication (color) of artificial light. In looking at the Exif data I don't see any way to distinguish between an internal or external strobe. ++Ken++
The Exif data for the image you posted says that the Flash fired but I sure don't see any evidence of that. Perhaps you were just too far from the subject, although for that wide of an aperture there should be some indication (color) of artificial light. In looking at the Exif data I don't see any way to distinguish between an internal or external strobe. ++Ken++
Air One
Contributor
I do agre, there is no evidence for any flash on that picture. You were too far, or the strobe direction is not correct , or it doesn't work ?
If it's just a question of distance, you should use a wide angle.
Changing the shutter speed or the f-stop won't solve your problem : underwatter there is mostly blue light, if you want the other colors you need a flash that works properly.
If it's just a question of distance, you should use a wide angle.
Changing the shutter speed or the f-stop won't solve your problem : underwatter there is mostly blue light, if you want the other colors you need a flash that works properly.
Unless that Scorpionfish is a juvenile, it looks like you're 8-10 feet away from it. How close were you?
8ft is probably WAY too far for your strobe. Get closer to your subject. Rule #1.
8ft is probably WAY too far for your strobe. Get closer to your subject. Rule #1.
OP
hutterw
Registered
Thanks for everyones very helpful feedback.
After going back and reviewing the Exif data, I believe my external strobe is not firing consistently, the output power is not consistent, the steps on the power setting are not very linear or despite the Exif data the cameras strobe did fire. I always shoot with the camera flash set to on and have not found evidence in the Exif data that the cameras strobe did not fire.
It was my perception that I was about 4 feet from the subject and make this distance my upper limit for strobe usage. Try to pay attention to how my strobe is pointed.
My shooting sequence typical goes as follows:
Strobe set to half power
Shoot a picture like the above Scorpionfish fish.
Adjust the strobe power up two steps and the f-stop to a smaller aperture
Shoot another picture and its burnt.
Adjust either strobe power down, aperture smaller or shutter faster.
Shoot another photo and its underexposed.
Watch subject swim away.
Taunted by my wife who just took the perfect picture
The big issue is the above sequence is not consistent. Sometimes following the above I get very nicely color and my night shots are always properly exposed with great color. And sometimes my wife waits to we are top side to taunt.
This weekend I will conduct some experiments to determine if I have an equipment issue.
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
After going back and reviewing the Exif data, I believe my external strobe is not firing consistently, the output power is not consistent, the steps on the power setting are not very linear or despite the Exif data the cameras strobe did fire. I always shoot with the camera flash set to on and have not found evidence in the Exif data that the cameras strobe did not fire.
It was my perception that I was about 4 feet from the subject and make this distance my upper limit for strobe usage. Try to pay attention to how my strobe is pointed.
My shooting sequence typical goes as follows:
Strobe set to half power
Shoot a picture like the above Scorpionfish fish.
Adjust the strobe power up two steps and the f-stop to a smaller aperture
Shoot another picture and its burnt.
Adjust either strobe power down, aperture smaller or shutter faster.
Shoot another photo and its underexposed.
Watch subject swim away.
Taunted by my wife who just took the perfect picture
The big issue is the above sequence is not consistent. Sometimes following the above I get very nicely color and my night shots are always properly exposed with great color. And sometimes my wife waits to we are top side to taunt.
This weekend I will conduct some experiments to determine if I have an equipment issue.
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
EastEndDiver
Contributor
Does your strobe allow for a pre-flash?Is it set properly for a pre-flash sequence. Possibly your strobe is firing during pre-flash and not when needed.
Hutter, I have the same camera with a ys90 strobe. I had a huge problem with my original optical fiber cable. I bought the kit that has a cover (looks like a diffuser) with the cable attachment. My strobe would fire a few times and then it would just quit firing. I contacted Sea and Sea and they told me they had a new cable that was larger in diameter. In the end my LDS took the old one back and I got the larger cable. Problem solved. One other suggestion. Get a fix light. I have a fisheye HG20DX. It has an adjustable power range, can be used as a primary for night dives and is just an all around awesome tool. Not cheap, but ... what is underwater.
Bruce
Bruce
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