Short Fills In HP Tanks

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

3AA steel and aluminum tanks have a test pressure that is 5/3rds the service pressure. The test pressure for most steel special permit tanks is 3/2 the service pressure.

So, for a 3442 psi special permit tank the test pressure is 5163 psi. For a 3000 psi aluminum tan it would be 5000 psi and for a 2400 psi steel tank it would be 4000 psi.

Actually, special permit cylinders have the test pressure "TP" and displacement numbers "REE" stamped into the cylinders. Worthington's test pressure on a 3442 is 5250
 
I see plenty of short filled AL80s so dive a premium steel cylinder and forget about it.

One I dove today was at 3400psi in the water at 46F water temp. (AL80)
 
The only trouble I have ever had with HP tanks (besides the afore mentioned fast fills/human error) concerns getting nitrox fills. If a shop does partial fill nitrox and their O2 cylinder is a little low you can have trouble topping off a partially used nitrox HP tank with the correct percentage. Some shops use boosters but a lot do not. Your only option is to drain the tank and start fresh. This is both time consuming and cost money as you pay for a whole tank and not just the little extra O2 you need.
 
The only trouble I have ever had with HP tanks (besides the afore mentioned fast fills/human error) concerns getting nitrox fills. If a shop does partial fill nitrox and their O2 cylinder is a little low you can have trouble topping off a partially used nitrox HP tank with the correct percentage. Some shops use boosters but a lot do not. Your only option is to drain the tank and start fresh. This is both time consuming and cost money as you pay for a whole tank and not just the little extra O2 you need.

Most shops just charge one price for tank fills, no matter how much is left. So I really don't care if the drain it or not.

Boosting oxygen is a dangerous affair, it is not to be taken lightly and should only be done when needed.
 
Wanna bet?

Nope! :D

I had just rebuilt my big haskel (8AGD-14) and decided to test it out with a friend on an HP80. We equalized at ~1800psi, then fired up the haskel. SIX seconds later the gauge on the fill station was at 4200psi and still climbing before I yelled "shut it off!" The fill station bypass was set at 3900 and the Haskel pumped right past that with the bypass wide open and screaming. :shocked2: Then I rechecked the performance graph of the Haskel and saw that it was over 350 cfm. Well, duh, I should've remembered that.

I know a few people who fill their doubles in a minute or less, and have been doing it like that for years.
 
Just my opinion, but I think in most of the cases the short fill is just an indicator of laziness or sloth upon the part of the tank filler.

I took one of those little tape label making machines and printed out "FILL PRESSURE: 3442# COLD" and put at the base of the valve on all my HP tanks.

Iffen it ain't 3442# or better, it ain't filled . . . so I'll pay yer fer whut ya put in thar.

the K
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom