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I've had Oceanic Pro, Pro Plus 2, now VT3 since 2002. Never any problem with air integration. I do not dive a redundant guage but have one with me if I ever had to use it with my backup computer, now a Geo 2.
 
Why gas switching for recreational computer? Skip that part as well. Audiable alarm, it is nice to have, but chances are you can't hear it under water anyway, still nice to have.

Scalability. In my case, if my original rec computer had had that feature, it wouldn't have eventually been quite so urgent to buy the shearwater :wink:

I also wish I had originally gotten a computer with a gauge mode.
 
Thanks, I was just curious. In my dive circle we all dive gauge mode, and I like the stop watch and avg depth features. It does seem like a waste to turn the computer off.
 
Well, I am not a tech diver and at age 68, will not be going there regardless. Therefore there is an entire class of computers I would not need. I bought an Aeris Atmos AI to start with, with integrated compass, but there is one major problem. I cannot hear high frequencies and cannot hear digital alarm clocks and the like, including the alarms on the computer. I decided to buy a Oceanic Datamask and it was the best decision I have ever made. I cannot tell you how wonderful it is to simply glance down and see depth, dive time remaining, safety stop timing, alarms (the dispaly flashes and it cannot be missed since it is in your vision constantly). Mine works a charm, no problems, and I love it.
Ed
 
Well, I am not a tech diver and at age 68, will not be going there regardless. Therefore there is an entire class of computers I would not need. I bought an Aeris Atmos AI to start with, with integrated compass, but there is one major problem. I cannot hear high frequencies and cannot hear digital alarm clocks and the like, including the alarms on the computer. I decided to buy a Oceanic Datamask and it was the best decision I have ever made. I cannot tell you how wonderful it is to simply glance down and see depth, dive time remaining, safety stop timing, alarms (the dispaly flashes and it cannot be missed since it is in your vision constantly). Mine works a charm, no problems, and I love it.
Ed
 
I'm still diving with a Datamax Pro Plus and Aladin Pro Ultra, both of which are over ten years old. No problems ever with either. The Uwatec went back to the factory for battery replacement and testing last year. Also last year the Oceanic dealer here in Thailand replaced the battery and tested the Datamax.

I will not again replace the battery on the Uwatec. Too expensive.

So, I am starting to look for a replacement wrist computer. This has been a very helpful thread.

If only it were a bit easier to tell how easy the screens are to read for a presbyopic geezer.
 
Hi all, I’m somewhat on information overload at this point trying to decide what my first dive computer should be based on a budget of $400 to $600 (could stretch it if there was value in doing so). I’ve done a lot of reading on the forum, been watching the forum’s classifieds, looked to see what things sold for in the past, been watching various Ebay auctions, etc. All that has resulted in my desire to try to get the purchase right the first time as opposed to looking back and saying “I wish I would have done this instead.”

With that as a backdrop, I was hoping that some of you may be willing to share your “if I had to do it again, I would have got this in the beginning” stories and share your opinions as to which way you’d suggest I go.

I know the answer to what computer may be best for me depends on what type of diving I plan to do so I can tell you I was certified about 1 year ago and have probably down about 10 dives. I’m probably going to be only a recreational diver for some time diving mostly on cruise ship excursions, in the Florida springs occasionally, and occasionally from our boar (or maybe a charter) in the Gulf of Mexico out of Tarpon Springs.

I was initially looking at Suunto products like the Cobra and Cobra 3 and then added the Oceanic Pro Plus to my list. Both were air integrated which I thought was a good thing and figured it may be something 5 years down the road I would be glad I got. But then the more I read it seemed a lot of people went from console computers to wrist mounted computers and I got to thinking I didn’t want to be wishing I had gotten a wrist mounted computer 5 years down the road (or even a transmitter which I know pushes things way out of my budget). The second guessing continued with quick disconnect or no-quick disconnect if I did get a console, etc., then new or used, then from the manufacturer for full price or from Ebay where there may not be a warranty from the authorized dealer. Now I'm sort of at the state that I don't even know what to pull the trigger on.

So, I was hoping that some of you with more experience would be willing to share your opinion by putting yourself in the shoes of someone who will be doing recreational diving with $400 to $600 to spend on a dive computer. To keep within that budget, what do you get as your first dive computer and what options do you forego given that budget?

You could buy a wrist mount AI without the transmitter. As long as you're using an SPG I wouldn't worry greatly about buying it on EBay. If you have options, double check the accuracy of the wrist mount (known depths, time, etc) until you give yourself peace of mind about the accuracy. You could add the AI option later (again double checking the accuracy until you reach a comfort level).
 
Been using suuntos for years largely without issue. I do a lot of night diving in various conditions and now have my sights set on the new OLED Liquidvision Lynx, no more pushing buttons or shining lights on my comp. Looks very nice, save the bright blue case lol.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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