Setting up new regs...

[Nemrod]

Well, it is pretty darn close to brainless.

Did not mean to get off so much on tools as the realization that one of the main mistakes that I see commonly are over torqued fittings and busted chrome and similar damage which is easy to avoid--step back man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PUT DOWN the vice grips!!!!!!!!!!!!

I do not concurr that silicone grease should be applied to the O rings on HP and LP hoses. I do think that a dive kit should have extras and some tools to change them.

As to what shops may or may not do to tune the regulators for the customer, they come from the facotry in serviceable conditon, certainly mistakes happen and a predive test, a shake down pool dive or similar should satisfy the regualtor is in working order regardless of who set it up.

An IP guage is a good investment, getting beyond simply screwing a LP hose into the housing, a bit more complex but still not exactly rocket science.

BTW, most modern regulators, LP hoses and HP hoses, have different size threads/fittings. Once this was not true and you could mistakenly install an LP hose into the HP port, that is not really possible with NEW equipment and as well they are marked with HP beside the HP port(s).

N

 

[Web Monkey]

As to what shops may or may not do to tune the regulators for the customer, they come from the facotry in servicreable conditon, certainly mistakes happen and a predive test, a shake down pool dive or similar should satisfy the regualtor is in working order regardless of who set it up.

They're all certainly breathable out of the box, however there's a big difference between "breathable" and "wow! that's really nice!"

Tuning isn't mandatory or even necessary all the time, but it's nice when you want it.

Terry

 

[vyvial]

Well, it is pretty darn close to brainless.
I do not concurr that silicone grease should be applied to the O rings on HP and LP hoses.
N

Really? I always have, can I ask your reason? Or is this one of those common things that I just never heard?

Thanks,

Aaron

 

[Nemrod]

Really? I always have, can I ask your reason? Or is this one of those common things that I just never heard?

Thanks,

Aaron

Because if I can obtain the manual then I do as it says, if says to then I do, if it don't then I don't.

Here is the dealio, lubing up an O ring makes it slippery and prone to extrusion. I don't think that a light (as in very light) application of pure silicone grease would hurt anything. Thing is, for this purpose, LP and HP hose installation, I don't think the silicone does anything other than create a potential for extrusion, especially should a fitting come loose during a dive. Some fittings do not have a very developed shoulder for retention, the moment they become the very slightest loose, the O ring can escape.

I am not telling you not to do it, if it has worked well for you then by all means, just be judicious in the use of silicone grease on everything, it is not always a plus, it can also attract contaminants.

I don't know how many regulators I have opened up packed full of silicone grease (axle grease, who knows what), some people just like to squirt it all over and in everything, a little is good, a whole bunch must surely be better, don't you think?

Same thing with the O ring at the valve to tank.

N

 

[tfsails]

Static O-rings usually do not need to be lubricated. Dynamic O-rings need to be lubricated. What's the difference?

Static o-rings don't move once the parts they're sealing up are screwed together. An example would be the hoses from the first stage. Another would be the big tank-to-valve o-ring.

Dynamic o-rings are on pieces that move, like the piston in the first stage, the orifice in the second stage, the second-stage end of the LP hose (the stage can swivel, remember?), etc. Lubricating them is important because they will deteriorate rapidly if not lubed.

Hope this helps.

 

[Nemrod]

Static O-rings usually do not need to be lubricated. Dynamic O-rings need to be lubricated. What's the difference?

Static o-rings don't move once the parts they're sealing up are screwed together. An example would be the hoses from the first stage. Another would be the big tank-to-valve o-ring.

Dynamic o-rings are on pieces that move, like the piston in the first stage, the orifice in the second stage, the second-stage end of the LP hose (the stage can swivel, remember?), etc. Lubricating them is important because they will deteriorate rapidly if not lubed.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for that, sometimes I make my explanations to shallow. Exactly right.

N

 

[muddiver]

Yep, I have some dated equipment, but...



The duct tape on the busted LP hose is holding up well..

 

[DA Aquamaster]

Static O-rings usually do not need to be lubricated. Dynamic O-rings need to be lubricated. What's the difference?

Static o-rings don't move once the parts they're sealing up are screwed together. An example would be the hoses from the first stage. Another would be the big tank-to-valve o-ring.

Dynamic o-rings are on pieces that move, like the piston in the first stage, the orifice in the second stage, the second-stage end of the LP hose (the stage can swivel, remember?), etc. Lubricating them is important because they will deteriorate rapidly if not lubed.

Hope this helps.

I'd argue that static o-rings need lubrication too - especially if they are viton and to an increasingly lesser extent if they are made of EPDM or nitrile rubber.

Some lubrication is required for a static o-ring to properly seat against the mating surfaces on both pieces. The LP and HP port plug o-rings for example are most often damaged by not being properly lubricated before being installed on the plug and inserted into the regulator body.

If I do nto have christo lube available or in a pinch silicone grease, I will use spit. I have never seen a properly lubricated o-ring feather when being installed, but I have seen that frequently occur with unlubricated o-rings.

 

[The_DivePirate]

As a retired USAF Avionics technician (36 years on various fighters) and a professional regulator technician now, I both agree with the "right tool for the job" concept (and an adjustable wrench is almost NEVER the right tool) and am shamed that others in my profession would do a jackleg job on a customer's reg when putting it together. I'm not going to say I've never used a pair of pliers where a wrench would have been better, but I can say it's been quite rare.

My shop assembles and bench checks new regs before the customer gets to take them home. We instruct the customer on the features of the new reg, and invite them to join us in the pool for free to get used to it. I would think any professional shop would do the same thing. If I were the customer I'd expect it.

I've seen lots of brand-new regs come through that were NOT properly adjusted for best performance underwater. Those who assemble their new regs would be well-advised to at least check the IP of the first stage before diving with it.

It's nice to know there is another shop that has some integrity about there gear setup. I would expect as a customer that has paid good money to buy gear to get that service! This is just another reason to buy from a LDS that provides such services, rather than an online operation that sends you a bunch of parts and has you put them together yourself. Yes, there are a few LDS that use an adjustable metric to put together gear. But, there are probably many more that use the right tool for the job, just look around, you'll find us!

They're all certainly breathable out of the box, however there's a big difference between "breathable" and "wow! that's really nice!"

Tuning isn't mandatory or even necessary all the time, but it's nice when you want it.

Terry

Well said!! As with a spark plug, hey, you can pull'em from the box and install them,
and they'll fire. But, even a GOOD driveway mechanic gaps his/her plugs before installation!!! It definately helps with fuel economy. As well with a regulator, I once bought a Titan LX from the LDS around here, and went diving. Seemed to work fine for the most part. But, being a gotta know kinda guy, bought some tools (Magnehelic gauge, IP gauge, Inline adjuster, and tools of the sort) and found out that the pop of in the second stage was nearly 3 on the mag gauge. Sure it worked, but, when I took her down to around 1.2 she was a dream!!!! Why not have'em tuned? And if you're buying a reg from a LDS, let them know you would like to have the spec's when yoiu pick up the reg. If they don't or won't offer this, go somewhere else that does. HEY, it's your money before it's theirs, make them work a little for it!
Joe
I'm still not happy the pirate is gone from the post icons, I mean come on, a troll?

 

[Web Monkey]

I'm still not happy the pirate is gone from the post icons, I mean come on, a troll?

What's that?

Terry