I think what Larry says would work if you are able to control the strobe to a setting that is very near to the camera TTL. Inon does that with the external auto mode one strobe uses the camera TTL and the other the light meter on the strobe itself. If you keep the apertures within certain limits you can influence shadows. In practice when you shoot manual this is harder to achieve as results will depend on distance. In theory it can be achieved in practice it's a bit hard as you need to be within a a stop from what the TTL flash is determining in order to avoid very hard shadows or overexposure
In any case to do this the strobe need to be the predominant source of light so you wouldn't want the camera to aim for a balanced exposure. The internal strobe TTL will work on his own calculation when you fire the shot regardless of everything
In any case to do this the strobe need to be the predominant source of light so you wouldn't want the camera to aim for a balanced exposure. The internal strobe TTL will work on his own calculation when you fire the shot regardless of everything