Servicing Apeks Exhaust Valve?

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coldsmoke

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Messages
593
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Location
Montana
# of dives
500 - 999
Hi All,

Posting this here instead of the DIY repair section or the Exposure section cause this forum seems to have more activity and I think I may get better advice.

Anyway, kinda new to drysuit diving and just got a used TLS 350. My issue is that I don't think the exhaust valve (apeks) is auto-venting soon enough. I have the valve completely open but I find myself having to vent it manually to maintain the air volume where I want it. It will vent, but just not until the volume is more than I think is ideal and easily managed. Perhaps it is user error or perhaps it needs a little service.

If it is user error, help me out. What am I doing wrong? I think I am positioning it as close to the top as possible. A bubble will form directly under the valve but it just doesn't release.

If you think it is a service issue, what is the best way to fix it. Can I do it myself, do I need to send it in, or do I need a new valve?

Thanks

Hunter
 
You will need a buddy to watch you and look for exhaust, since you likely can't hear it over your regulator.

You need to make the vent the top of the suit...if that means roll slightly to the right (what I do when scootering) or positioning slightly head-up...then that's what you need to do. Also, if you have your feet up, you'll need to straighten them out or the gas in the feet will stay trapped there.

If that doesn't work, try shaking the valve (without pressing in) with your right hand.


Are your undergarments getting bunched up under the valve?

Turning it CCW all the way to open it?
 
It does exhaust, I can see it, but just not as soon as I want it to. I become too light.

I do get the valve to the top, in fact, more pronounced than I think necessary.

Yes the valve is all the way ccw.

I haven't tried shaking it but I don't want to have to always do that. Is that a way to troubleshoot a problem?

I am not sure about my undies getting in the way. I don't think so, because they fit pretty snug and I can't really see them bunching. And, I can get a huge bubble directly under the valve and it still won't release. When I press the manual button tons of air rushes out.

Hunter
 
coldsmoke:
My issue is that I don't think the exhaust valve (apeks) is auto-venting soon enough. I have the valve completely open but I find myself having to vent it manually to maintain the air volume where I want it.

I just got my DUI TLS-350 an am having the same issue. I wish the valve was a little more sensitive and would release air sooner than it does. My left sleeve is ballooned up with air, valve positioned at the high point and fully CCW, but air barely trickles out or does not vent at all. What gives?
 
I am using a DUI jumpsuit of 200 gram thinsulate. I took mine apart yesterday and I think that I fixed it. It looks like someone either assembled or re-assembled it wrong. I think that even in the all the way open position there was still pressure on the outer diaphram. When I re-assembled I screwed the ring in all the way closed and then made sure that the lock catch was positioned so that it allows maximum opening. It seems to vent with much less pressure, in fact almost no pressure. Of course this in on dry land. I will need to get it wet to see if it really worked. I won't have a chance to try it out until Wednesday, but I will post the results.

Harry, not sure if my directions make sense. I'm not sure I can do a better job by typing it with no pictures. Feel free to contact me and I can hopefully get more specific.

Hunter
 
I was having same problem at first with my brand spanking new TLS - however I have Si-Tech valve. I was putting it down to user error but a nagging voice in my head also kept wondering if my valve kept sticking in it's newness a bit. (Like some of the rubber bits or something).

My valve would always blurt air way later than as drysuit-rookie buddy's similar valve on similar dives with similar undies. I would always need to maneuver and contort, and the bubble would need to grow uncomfortably large around the valve before it would pop open. Mine has remained tighter - until I got some crud into the valve and now it's nice and easy-venting but leaks a bit... no-win...

P.S. How to test without breaking the valve that something is definetly wrong? When I clean my valve in all-open position and try to push water (with syringe even) from inside out, it appears as if the flow is pretty restricted. I think something is going on with my valve... I have not dared to crack it open myself.
 
Glad to see I'm not the only one having problems. Well, I'm sorry you guys are having problems, but I'm glad it's not because I'm and idiot.

I just tested by blowing through it. Before I fixed it, it took some pressure to blow through. Now it takes almost none. I don't know about sitech valves, but the apeks valve only has about 4 main pieces. They're pretty simple. It did take me several attempts re-assembling to get everything lined up properly to get the maximum range of motion. I would say you only need to be moderatly handy to take it apart. Just make sure you go slow and remember how it goes together.

Good luck,

Hunter
 
coldsmoke:
Glad to see I'm not the only one having problems. Well, I'm sorry you guys are having problems, but I'm glad it's not because I'm and idiot.

I just tested by blowing through it. Before I fixed it, it took some pressure to blow through. Now it takes almost none. I don't know about sitech valves, but the apeks valve only has about 4 main pieces. They're pretty simple. It did take me several attempts re-assembling to get everything lined up properly to get the maximum range of motion. I would say you only need to be moderatly handy to take it apart. Just make sure you go slow and remember how it goes together.

Good luck,

Hunter



Can you explain what you did with the assembly to change the sensitivty of the valve? What did you have to "line up properly"? I do not have a valve in front of me, but it seems you would have to take the inside cover off to blow thorugh it for testing. Is that what you did, or did you improvise a cover?

I have the same problem with venting. Even with the valve all the way open I collect air in the arm. I know of at least one other person who has the the same problem as well. It seems like poor quality on Apeks part. They could test the valve with a Magnehelic before shipping.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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