Second VIP test after Hydro test?

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akchan

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WHen I dropped my tank off at a hydro test facility, they asked where I will be filling it and said I'd need a VIP inspection from them after? Research on the board says that the hydro test does the VIP, so why would they say I need it? Should I ask for a VIP sticker from them?

EDIT

did some more research, sounds like it's a good idea for the LDS to do it as well?
 
You're right. When you drop a tank off at a Hydro Facility they usually just do the hydro so you need a vip done before being filled. If you drop your tank off at a dive shop it's usually run as a Hydro/VIP where the shop does the VIP when the tank returns from hydro.
 
In this thread from 2008: Hydro

At the risk of repeating myself excessively, a VIP is a required part of what is commonly known as a hydro test. Both the hydro test and the VIP make up what is legally known as the requalification process that a tank has to pass before it can be restamped with a new requalfication date.

So...a VIP and hydro test are both legally mandated parts of the requalification process. The tank does not get stamped without passing both. It is also worth noting that the dive shop's VIP does not count here as far as the DOT is concerned, it has to be done by the test facility.

The dive shop does its own VIP for reasons of its own, but if they fail a tank that just came back from hydro test, they probably screwed up or shoudl be contacting the DOT to have them inspect the tank and the test facility that requalified it. If a shop commonly fails the VIP on a just hydro tested tank, I'd seriously suspect either their competence or their honesty and it would be those few incompetent or dishonest shops that generate a disproportionate amount of the hate toward dive shops.
 
... I'd need a VIP inspection from them after?...
As others said above the hydro and VIP are two different and separate services.

For example,,,,,a hydro tester has nothing to do with the tank's valve servicing. In most VIP cases the valve's neck O-ring will be deformed/worn after a year and should be replaced. The VIP may also inspect the burst disk to make sure it's not deformed or corroded to insure your safety. A shop will usually take a brief look inside your tank before it is hydro tested to inspect for possible problems,,but that's not a VIP. The VIP will always come after the hydro is completed.
 
The VIP also checks that nothing got inside the tank after the hydro. Is it drained, no critters moved in, didn't flash rust, etc.

The hydro shop does a quick VIS, mainly to make sure it looks to be safe enough to hydro. But they know the dive shop does the full VIS and it is the dive shop that has there name on the VIS sticker, not the hydro shop.

Very few shops actually do the hydro on site. They use a 3rd party hydro shop. But they do enough they get bulk discounts. I knew where my local shop did there hydros at and inquired about just having them do it. It was actually less expensive to put my tank in a batch the dive shop was running through the hydro shop.
 
Just because a tank gets hydro’s doesn’t mean it will pass VIP.
When I get a tank, the first thing I do is pull the valve off and take a look inside. If it’s brown I’ll give it a whip and bottom scrub then check over the outside. If there rust on the outside (painted tank) I’ll do whatever it takes to make it right, usually treat the rust and get it in primer. Then the tank will go to hydro. If it passes, which every steel tank I’ve ever sent in does, then I take another peek inside and normally there will always be a bit of staining. I touch up the inside with brushes again to make it sparkling clean because I like things pristine, then I’ll topcoat the outside, service the valve if it needs it or replace it, and it’s done.
Remember, a VIP includes the outside of a tank as well as the inside. If a tank has questionable rust pitting on the outside especially under a boot the dive shop is well within their boundaries if they refuse to fill it even with a current hydro and VIP.
Painted tanks get tricky. I’m lucky that I work with my dive shop quite a bit with tanks. They’ve given me several used painted tanks that they don’t want to deal with and I’ve supplied them with several scrubbing tools. They trust my work so when I bring in my freshly painted steel tanks they know they’re ligit and done right.
 
As others said above the hydro and VIP are two different and separate services.

For example,,,,,a hydro tester has nothing to do with the tank's valve servicing. In most VIP cases the valve's neck O-ring will be deformed/worn after a year and should be replaced. The VIP may also inspect the burst disk to make sure it's not deformed or corroded to insure your safety. A shop will usually take a brief look inside your tank before it is hydro tested to inspect for possible problems,,but that's not a VIP. The VIP will always come after the hydro is completed.
Is the o ring deformed from age or from valve removal?
 
Just because a tank gets hydro’s doesn’t mean it will pass VIP.
When I get a tank, the first thing I do is pull the valve off and take a look inside. If it’s brown I’ll give it a whip and bottom scrub then check over the outside. If there rust on the outside (painted tank) I’ll do whatever it takes to make it right, usually treat the rust and get it in primer. Then the tank will go to hydro. If it passes, which every steel tank I’ve ever sent in does, then I take another peek inside and normally there will always be a bit of staining. I touch up the inside with brushes again to make it sparkling clean because I like things pristine, then I’ll topcoat the outside, service the valve if it needs it or replace it, and it’s done.
Remember, a VIP includes the outside of a tank as well as the inside. If a tank has questionable rust pitting on the outside especially under a boot the dive shop is well within their boundaries if they refuse to fill it even with a current hydro and VIP.
Painted tanks get tricky. I’m lucky that I work with my dive shop quite a bit with tanks. They’ve given me several used painted tanks that they don’t want to deal with and I’ve supplied them with several scrubbing tools. They trust my work so when I bring in my freshly painted steel tanks they know they’re ligit and done right.
What do you use to clean the inside of the tank? Do you have a tumbler setup? Or....?
 
Is the o ring deformed from age or from valve removal?
From being squeezed in between the valve and the tank and sitting there for some extended time. It just takes the shape of the groove which is squarish for ab AL cylinder and conical for a steelie
 
From being squeezed in between the valve and the tank and sitting there for some extended time. It just takes the shape of the groove which is squarish for ab AL cylinder and conical for a steelie
But if this were a real issue shouldn’t all tanks besides scuba tanks require annual inspection and o ring replacement?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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