SeaLife introduces the new DC2000 Digital Underwater Camera!

[BFRedrocks]

I'll be curious to hear how well they work together. The guide number for the SeaDragons is 20, so going to something like a YS-D2 (32) would be a pretty drastic change. I imagine with the added RAW capability, I'll be trying more reefscapes, so the additional strobe power would probably help quite a bit. I also am curious as to how well the flex arms will support a heavier strobe. It's only a 4oz difference (18 to 22), so it probably won't be an issue, though.

Weird how you mentioned the YS-D2 strobes as those are the ones I was specifically looking at getting. If I pull the trigger, I'll definitely let you know how they pair up and how they fit in the Sealife tray/flex arm system

 

[Pillpusher]

Weird how you mentioned the YS-D2 strobes as those are the ones I was specifically looking at getting. If I pull the trigger, I'll definitely let you know how they pair up and how they fit in the Sealife tray/flex arm system

Lol. Sounds good, thanks. Yeah, those are pretty sweet. And they have pretty lights on the back...lol. For a while I was looking into making the jump to a different compact camera and had settled on those as my strobes, but I never got around to pulling the trigger before the DC2000 was announced.

 

[Steve_C]

I have a sealife 1200 with digital pro flash. In certain situations, like low light near structure it would be good to have some nonflash light especially since some fish get spooked by the flash/preflash. Also some fill light is good. So my question is can I get it set up so that I have a dragon light and my digital pro flash working off my DC 1200. This is not obvious because the flash requires an optical cord back to the camera and I do not see that in the photos. I will be shooting almost exclusively photo and not video. I am not opposed to buying a new tray or arms. Just want all to work well together.

If the new arms are longer how is the optical cord handled?

Advice? Comments?

 

[Pillpusher]

I have a sealife 1200 with digital pro flash. In certain situations, like low light near structure it would be good to have some nonflash light especially since some fish get spooked by the flash/preflash. Also some fill light is good. So my question is can I get it set up so that I have a dragon light and my digital pro flash working off my DC 1200. This is not obvious because the flash requires an optical cord back to the camera and I do not see that in the photos. I will be shooting almost exclusively photo and not video. I am not opposed to buying a new tray or arms. Just want all to work well together.

If the new arms are longer how is the optical cord handled?

Advice? Comments?

Here you go. The flash link cables work the same way as they did with previous models.

 

[Steve_C]

I have a DC 1200 with digital pro flash. I went to LDS and checked and the micro arm (if that is the right term) and a sea dragon light can be attached on the opposite side. The only remaining problem is that to attach it I have to use the built in threaded hole underneath. This is where the bracket to hold my fisheye lens goes. Most of the time I use the fisheye but sometimes for smaller stuff or slow moving stuff I take off the fisheye and stow it in this lens bracket.

There does not seem to be a way to use a longer bolt.

So the question is how do I stow a fisheye lens with both a flash and a strobe? Drilling holes in plastic seems likely to lead to a failure point and just letting it dangle seems a recipe for banging it up.

Thanks

 

[archer1960]

I have a DC 1200 with digital pro flash. I went to LDS and checked and the micro arm (if that is the right term) and a sea dragon light can be attached on the opposite side. The only remaining problem is that to attach it I have to use the built in threaded hole underneath. This is where the bracket to hold my fisheye lens goes. Most of the time I use the fisheye but sometimes for smaller stuff or slow moving stuff I take off the fisheye and stow it in this lens bracket.

There does not seem to be a way to use a longer bolt.

So the question is how do I stow a fisheye lens with both a flash and a strobe? Drilling holes in plastic seems likely to lead to a failure point and just letting it dangle seems a recipe for banging it up.

Thanks

I just let mine dangle.

 

[Steve_C]

Yeh, that is possible. But the times I want to take it off are precisely when there is the most stuff around like I am trying to shoot in close to a bunch of coral covered metal on an old wreck and their is a nudi or some such in a small place. While I may be off the stuff the camera may be pretty close.

 

[Pillpusher]

Steve, first, my apologies. On your previous question, because this thread was about the DC2000, I assumed that was what your question was about. My bad for not reading more carefully.

As for your new question, I'm confused... Why are you needing to attach a light to the threaded hole underneath as opposed to on the sides? Regardless, you can also attach a light to the cold shoe on the top of the housing, so that is another option.

 

[Steve_C]

Sorry I should have been clearer.

I currently have a DC1200 with a digital pro flash. This pro flash is with the old style of arm and not the new kind that the pro flash and the sea dragon use.

On the bottom of the plastic base there are two holes. One is used to attach the camera. The other currently has a place that I have a bracket to attach the fisheye lens when I am not using it. I checked and the arm from a sea dragon can be attached there instead.

My camera does not have a cold shoe.

Most of my dives are off the coast of NC on wrecks or ledges. I shoot some pictures because I think they may make a nice picture and I shoot a lot for fish ID purposes. So I am often shooting in low viz conditions or with considerable particulate. Some times a fish hides behind a piece of metal and I am shooting into the dark. I would like a source of steady light some times to complement the flash. As with the flash I do not want the light coming directly from the camera because of back scatter. So I want the steady light on an arm just like for the flash.

 

[Pillpusher]

Sorry I should have been clearer.

I currently have a DC1200 with a digital pro flash. This pro flash is with the old style of arm and not the new kind that the pro flash and the sea dragon use.

On the bottom of the plastic base there are two holes. One is used to attach the camera. The other currently has a place that I have a bracket to attach the fisheye lens when I am not using it. I checked and the arm from a sea dragon can be attached there instead.

My camera does not have a cold shoe.

Most of my dives are off the coast of NC on wrecks or ledges. I shoot some pictures because I think they may make a nice picture and I shoot a lot for fish ID purposes. So I am often shooting in low viz conditions or with considerable particulate. Some times a fish hides behind a piece of metal and I am shooting into the dark. I would like a source of steady light some times to complement the flash. As with the flash I do not want the light coming directly from the camera because of back scatter. So I want the steady light on an arm just like for the flash.

I've never done it myself, but I could swear I read somewhere that you can add a flex connect arm to the old trays, opposite your current flash. Alternatively, the DC1200 housing actually does have a cold shoe! If you look on the top of the housing, there is a removeable piece directly over the lens. Pull that off and you can slide one of these in there to attach a seadragon light.
Sealife Flex-Connect Cold Shoe Mount

But, to avoid backscatter, adding the flex arm is likely the best route.