Sea & Sea MX-10

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Stingray,

I think the MX-10 is a great system in its price range, and with its variable aperture and multiple available lenses, is a big step up from all of the fixed-lens, fixed-aperture point-and-shoots, including the Reefmaster. However, its one drawback is that the "external" strobe (YS-40) is too close to the lens, creating a backscatter problem (which also plagues the MX-5-II.) While we do produce the MXTENDER, which solves the MX-10 problem, I DO NOT recommend that option for you. Our device is for the veteran MX-10 photographer who has a lot already invested in their system. Since you don't yet own an MX-10, you could apply the cost of the MXTENDER, plus that of the camera itself, and what you get for your old Reefmaster, toward a better system. There are many choices available in the approximate price range, including digital systems.

Besides the digital alternatives, I saw that Leisure-Pro has the Motormarine II-EX with YS-60 kit on sale right now for $639.95. With the MM-II, you get a more powerful strobe with TTL metering, and a camera with a wider lens selection.

Leisure-Pro's price on the MX-10/YS-40A kit is $389.95. Add the $199.95 cost of the MXTENDER, and you're at almost $600.00 total. For only $50.00 more, you can get the Motormarine II-EX/YS-60 system, which is vastly better, with a much more powerful and truly separate strobe.

Others on the board can give you info about the comparably-priced digital setups, I'm sure.

BTW, all but one of the photographs on my website (http://www.gbundersea.com/photo.htm) were taken using a Motormarine II with single YS-50 strobe. For the other, I used an MX-10 equipped with an MXTENDER.

Good luck!
 
I've owned both and if the external flash isn't a consideration, the MX10 is the better camera. Add the external flash to the mix and the Sealife is the hands down winner. The fact that the flash is displaced and aimable on the Sealife is a key to reducing back scatter in photos. Looked at getting the cable system for the MX10 to get the flash away from the camera to reduce back scatter.....too expensive. Photo quality is about the same for both
 
My MX10/YS-40A fires the strobe at any location.... It's a great camera for simple fixed focus/film. PM me....since I've gone digital a couple years ago, it doesn't get much use and it's in mint condition....:wink:

tony
 
I've had an MX-10 for a couple of years now and have been very happy with it. I have the external flash, and the extra lenses (I was lucky enough to buy the whole kit duty free on vacation). I've had the system down to approx 120ft with no problems.

As another member has stated, the poor quality of my pics, has been as a result of this user.. not the equipment.

First rule (as I've found out) - if you think you're close enough, get a wee bit closer if you can.

Second rule expect to toss a number of pics... it's amazing what floats by when you least expect it.

Advice - I'm still in the learning mode, so it's probably only worth 0.02... (Canadian at that). Greg's accessoriesCamera Accessories are something you might seriously consider. The save-a-lens kit has save my errant lens a few times. The MX-extender has improved some (I wish all) my shots.

Now the silly guy has added a save-a-lens for digital cameras... next step digital. I'm glad to know he's a step ahead for a sometimes klutz like me. :D
 
gbundersea once bubbled...

Please explain this statement. Do you have an MXTENDER?
I can take the strobe off the camera, hold it at any angle (taking care not to cover the infrared eye with an errant finger) and it will fire.....go figure!

tony
 
scubatexastony once bubbled...

I can take the strobe off the camera, hold it at any angle (taking care not to cover the infrared eye with an errant finger) and it will fire.....go figure!
tony
This is caused by the infrared sensor in the YS-40 being triggered from the MX-10's internal flash. There has been a lot of misinformation circulated about the YS-40 working off-camera like this. One store even used this as part of a sales pitch, only to have the customer learn differently after they bought the system. It "works" under some conditions, but as a practical method for underwater use in actual open water conditions, it is useless.

Take a look here for a more in-depth discussion.
 
"Backscatter will be HORRIBLE when using the internal flash! " Granted, you can light up a picture at inoppertune times, but on the average, I get 90% good shots using only INTERNAL flash.....go figure!

BTW, it's a YS-40A if that makes any difference.....FTR

tony
 
scubatexastony once bubbled...
"Backscatter will be HORRIBLE when using the internal flash! " Granted, you can light up a picture at inoppertune times, but on the average, I get 90% good shots using only INTERNAL flash.....go figure!

BTW, it's a YS-40A if that makes any difference.....FTR

tony

No sales pitch intended. I just wanted to clarify the off-camera usage of the YS-40. As I mentioned, a lot of people have been misled into thinking this is a viable method of using the system.

You must be shooting in some really clear water to actually get decent photographs using the MX-10's internal flash. I've seen pictures taken with MX-10's and even Motormarines with the internal flash on, and they all had a foreground full of heavy backscatter which ruined the image.

The difference betwen the YS-40 and 40A is the meter built into the 40A, which enables the Automatic setting.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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