Have you tried it yet?
I'm curious how you determined it will work and not cause damage. Let's hope that Sealife has built in enough safety circuits to protect the light from such attempts. At what voltage do those circuits kick in?
I would never consider using this battery pack. Just because it is physically the same size doesn't mean it will work. The LED driver board likely has DC to DC converters and other voltage sensitive circuits. Sure, the OEM battery voltage will droop as it discharges under load, but I seriously doubt it would be allowed to drop to voltage levels that this Kodak battery will, under load.
Do you know if the OEM battery pack includes some active circuitry for measuring temperature, charge level (coulomb counting), excessive current, or other runaway safety issues? They often include a special circuit (nicknamed a Kevorkian) that blows a fuse, killing the battery. Does the Kodak battery have these circuits, and if not, what is the safety risk?
As far as your 'twice the current' comment. True. But remember that power lost to resistance (heat) is the SQUARE of current. You'll be heating the internal circuits and wires to 4x (two squared) what they would with the OEM battery.
Finally, how are you going to charge it? How does the Sealife charger work? I'm assuming it is a constant voltage design, with a current limiter, which might be OK if the Kodak battery can handle the current. However, if it is a constant current design, who knows how it might overcharge that lower voltage battery.
I'm not trying to toot my own horn or anything, and I'm not as familiar with battery and charger technology as I used to be. However, one of my degrees is Electrical Engineering. I was involved in consumer electronic's battery design for about 10 years (late 90's to early 2000's). I worked with the big guys at the time (Motorola, Samsung, and Panasonic), and even testified in front of the Consumer Products Safety Commission.