I'm too attached to my old scuba equipment to ever sell any of it, but thanks for the interest. On my most recent dive, last September, I used a DIN Mk 10 and a D350, but not out of any nostalgia. I like the way this combination performs.
Scubapro MK5 DIN - maybe? help ID!
- Thread starter Greg Torok
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
Hi @Angelo Farina As you know, the ScubaPro Universal DIN does not normally work on a MK5. If you get no joy from the Trident kit have a look at the thread linked below for a few ideas on a modification that allows the use of a ScubaPro universal DIN on a MK5 I have not done this, but a trusted friend and former contributor to SB has had positive results.
Scubapro mk5 din conversion kit
Scubapro mk5 din conversion kit
I have already a couple of Universal Kits from SB (one 200 bar, one 300). They fit well on MK10, MK15 and Mk20/25, but do not fit properly on the MK5.
I am going to use one of them on the MK10 you just sent me...
Let see how the Trident A166 work. They should be an exact copy of the original SP kit available at the time for MK5, with an all-brass knob!
I am going to use one of them on the MK10 you just sent me...
Let see how the Trident A166 work. They should be an exact copy of the original SP kit available at the time for MK5, with an all-brass knob!
The Trident A166 DIN conversion kit finally arrived. But.... It does not fit on my MK5 !!!
I am really upset!
Here some photos. First my old yoke stuff:
Here a particular of the threaded part which screws on the MK5 body:
Here the Trident A166 before unpacking. The label is identifying it properly:
I was expecting that the trident A166 kit would present a very similar threaded part as the old yoke, instead it is entirely different:
The thread begins after a couple of mm from the end of the barrel, hence it screws for juts a couple of turns in the MK5 body. And there is no groove for the O-ring...
Furthermore the air filter is kept in place just by an O-ring, which has no lock, and I fear can go below the piston, causing freeflow or even occlusion:
And finally the barrel is too large for passing through the hole of the saddle:
Conclusion: the A166 does not fit on old Scubapro MK5. I will try to ship back to US, albeit I will not be refunded of the cost for shipping and customs (which as large)... I could also try to resell it on Ebay, but of course I cannot promote it for the MK5. On which reg do you think this A166 can be used? on the old MK2?
I am really upset!
Here some photos. First my old yoke stuff:
Here a particular of the threaded part which screws on the MK5 body:
Here the Trident A166 before unpacking. The label is identifying it properly:
I was expecting that the trident A166 kit would present a very similar threaded part as the old yoke, instead it is entirely different:
The thread begins after a couple of mm from the end of the barrel, hence it screws for juts a couple of turns in the MK5 body. And there is no groove for the O-ring...
Furthermore the air filter is kept in place just by an O-ring, which has no lock, and I fear can go below the piston, causing freeflow or even occlusion:
And finally the barrel is too large for passing through the hole of the saddle:
Conclusion: the A166 does not fit on old Scubapro MK5. I will try to ship back to US, albeit I will not be refunded of the cost for shipping and customs (which as large)... I could also try to resell it on Ebay, but of course I cannot promote it for the MK5. On which reg do you think this A166 can be used? on the old MK2?
Attachments
Hi Angelo, sorry to hear the bad news. I suggest you try it on your MK10.
On another note, did you get my message in post #33 about a small modification which allows a standard (MK10/20/25) DIN to work on a MK5? It only involves the addition of one small washer.
On another note, did you get my message in post #33 about a small modification which allows a standard (MK10/20/25) DIN to work on a MK5? It only involves the addition of one small washer.
Couv, on my MK10 I immediately mounted a brand new 300-bars Scubapro Universal DIN kit, which here in Italy costs just 37 Eur. Works great !!!
I hoped to avoid the need to make not-original modifications mounting such an universal kit on two of my MK5s, so I ordered a couple of A166, but it was a big error.
I have here around another Scubapro universal kit, albeit it is the older 200-bar version. Here you see it side-by-side with the 300 bar kit, before mounting the latter on the MK10. As you see, it has the proper O-ring after the threads:
I already attempted to mount it on one of my older MK5, but it requires a washer (as you did already point out) for avoiding that the screw goes too much inside the reg body. And even with that, if keeping the brass saddle, the knob gets locked against it, so I should use it without the saddle, which I do not like too much.
I searched a lot on the Internet, and found a couple of interesting photos. The first shows a MK5 with the original DIN kit for it (part no. 10-105-030) and brass knob mounted:
But from this photo it is unclear if the kit is mounted with the saddle, or not. Possibly not!
The second shows the retainer being part of that original SP kit (part no. 10-105-116):
This looks entirely different from the retainer of the Trident A166, shown here:
So possibly the best solution is to buy two new 300 bars Scubapro universal kits, and mount them on my MK5s with the trick of a proper brass washer for impeding to the retainer to thread-in too much.
But I fear that also with the washer the saddle will cause the knob to lock, and to be forced to mount them without saddle, as it happens with the older 200-bar universal kit.
I will report here how it works when they arrive.
I hoped to avoid the need to make not-original modifications mounting such an universal kit on two of my MK5s, so I ordered a couple of A166, but it was a big error.
I have here around another Scubapro universal kit, albeit it is the older 200-bar version. Here you see it side-by-side with the 300 bar kit, before mounting the latter on the MK10. As you see, it has the proper O-ring after the threads:
I already attempted to mount it on one of my older MK5, but it requires a washer (as you did already point out) for avoiding that the screw goes too much inside the reg body. And even with that, if keeping the brass saddle, the knob gets locked against it, so I should use it without the saddle, which I do not like too much.
I searched a lot on the Internet, and found a couple of interesting photos. The first shows a MK5 with the original DIN kit for it (part no. 10-105-030) and brass knob mounted:
But from this photo it is unclear if the kit is mounted with the saddle, or not. Possibly not!
The second shows the retainer being part of that original SP kit (part no. 10-105-116):
This looks entirely different from the retainer of the Trident A166, shown here:
So possibly the best solution is to buy two new 300 bars Scubapro universal kits, and mount them on my MK5s with the trick of a proper brass washer for impeding to the retainer to thread-in too much.
But I fear that also with the washer the saddle will cause the knob to lock, and to be forced to mount them without saddle, as it happens with the older 200-bar universal kit.
I will report here how it works when they arrive.
I am looking at possible solutions, and I have read all the posts which describe the usage of the SP universal DIN kit on the MK5. Placing a brass washer inside the MK5 body is not a problem, there is a flat surface for the washer to stay over, sustaining the force of the threaded retainer with no problem.
What I am worried is the O-ring placed just after the thread.
Comparing the original Yoke retainer (left) with the new SP Universal Kit (right), it appears that in the latter the groove for the O-ring is not just behind the threads, as in the Yoke retainer (position 1).
perhaps it would be possible to install a thinner O-ring in position 2, or to keep the standard O-ring in position 3.
My concern is that in position 2, not being enough space after the last thread, the O-ring can be damaged while screwing in. On the other side, placing the O-ring in the groove 3, it will be almost outside the body of the reg, working against the saddle, not the body of the reg, so sealing would be impossible...
What do you suggest?
What I am worried is the O-ring placed just after the thread.
Comparing the original Yoke retainer (left) with the new SP Universal Kit (right), it appears that in the latter the groove for the O-ring is not just behind the threads, as in the Yoke retainer (position 1).
perhaps it would be possible to install a thinner O-ring in position 2, or to keep the standard O-ring in position 3.
My concern is that in position 2, not being enough space after the last thread, the O-ring can be damaged while screwing in. On the other side, placing the O-ring in the groove 3, it will be almost outside the body of the reg, working against the saddle, not the body of the reg, so sealing would be impossible...
What do you suggest?
Hi @Angelo Farina Sorry, I wish I could suggest a work around. However, I no longer have any MK5s much less any with DIN fittings. The link I posted earlier has all of the information I've read about it. Having a non-standard yoke/DIN is one of the reasons I shed my MK5s and kept the MK10s.
Edit Here is a cut and paste from an email I received from AWAP:
The problem with the universal retainer in a Mk5 is it is just a bit too short. That results in the o-ring being damaged by the body threads and some binding on the saddle when you try to tighten to the specified torque. I simply added a brass washer between the body and the end of the retainer and the problem was solved. It needs about 1mm of added length so start with one washer and torque to 22 ft-lb. If the o-ring stays in good shape then check that the saddle does not bind. If there is damage or binding, add another washer. I also used a Mk 20/25 saddle on one Mk5 but ground some of the plastic off that was causing too much contact with the body.
Similar threads
