Scubapro MK20/G250: Ten Years After

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Zung

Contributor
Messages
1,652
Reaction score
304
Location
Geneva, Switzerland
# of dives
500 - 999
This thread is to give some data points on the effect of long term storage.

History: I bought this MK20 new from an LDS in June 2000, went on a dive trip, and then stored it in a clean, dry closet while I watched the kids grow. In August 2009, the kids got certified, I pulled it out, did a quick test, everything OK, and went on diving my merry way.

The G250 I’m not so sure; I have neither recollection nor paperwork that says when and where I got it. I found out later on it’s much older than the first stage.

Anyway, the last time I tested this rig was in January 2010: the IP was 9 bar / 131 PSI, no creep, and the recovery was instantaneous; the cracking effort was 24 mm / .94 inch of water. I thought about servicing it, but couldn’t find any good reasons for it, so I went on diving some more.

February 2011, I finally decide to open it up for a look. This MK20 is 10 years old and has only 62 dives.

Opening is easy, nothing is stuck.

Inside, there’s a lot of grease, I presume it’s Christo-Lube from the color of it. It was a factory-new item, so now I know SP was very liberal with grease at that time. The grease has not dried out: it still has the greasy/slippery feeling, and no solid residue that I can tell. So the claim that CL dries out after 2-3 years previously discussed needs a big qualifier.

MK20-Piston-Before.jpg

MK20-Body-Before2.jpg


In spite of the few dives it has, the HP seat is marked.

All the O-rings appear to be good and supple.

The G250 looks a bit worse. Because of all the rainbow colored O-rings, it must be a lot older that the MK20. Does anybody know the date when SP changed to the black ones? Anyway, most of them have become hard, and there're a few tiny nicks in the orifice.

G250-Before.jpg


Another hint at its age: it has an old style lever, and the seat is well marked.

G250-Lever.jpg

G250-Seat.jpg


As expected, everything cleans up nicely. After all, the rig is near new with only 62 dives in it.

MK20-Body-After.jpg

MK20-Cap-After.jpg

G250-After.jpg


I decide to replace all the O-rings, the orifice and the LP seat, but I keep the old HP seat just to see. And there's a little surprise: the IP is now 9.5 bar / 138 PSI. Yes, same piston, same seat, but higher IP. The only difference I know is the piston stem HP o-ring: I use a PU90 instead of the standard EP90.

The thing came with 2 shims under the spring and 2 in the seat retainer. I removed 1, and now the IP is back to 9.2 bar / 133 PSI, closer to where all my other rigs are.

I'm leaving it pressurized for a while and report back next week with the final IP and cracking effort.
 
Never seen a post written by a ghost........you have to be one because we all know you will die if your reg is not serviced every year by someone in the back room of a dive shop. :)

Amazing what a little TLC will do to prolong the life of a reg.
 
My 12/97 schematic for the G250 still shows color coded o-rings but no S-wing poppet. I believe the S-wing poppet showed up in 2000. And by then the color coded o-rings were no longer provided. Looks like you may have had a classic underhaul on the G250.

My experience with the color coded o-rings is the red ones seem to be prone to plasticizing with the red orifice o-ring being the worse. I have never seen the other colors get hard except the urethane HP piston o-rings. I'm still diving some blue & purple o-rings.

Also, I'm not sure why a new Mk20 would have 2 washers on the piston retainer unless the LDS took the easy way out to tweak it before delivery.

BTW, there should also be a little red o-ring on the flow vane.
 
Thanks.

I've never messed with the flow vane yet - Should I? SP saith no touchy, else replace the whole part.

While we're on the subject, I've never messed with the exhaust valves either, same warning from SP. And those guys contribute to half of the work of breathing, the upper part of a ANSTI curve. Any tweak?
 
Thanks.

I've never messed with the flow vane yet - Should I? SP saith no touchy, else replace the whole part.

While we're on the subject, I've never messed with the exhaust valves either, same warning from SP. And those guys contribute to half of the work of breathing, the upper part of a ANSTI curve. Any tweak?

If it is not leaking, I would not mess with it unless I was worried about another little red o-ring (-008) and probably could use some lube at least once every 10 years. The G250 vane is held in place by a c-clip so should be no reason to replace anything but the o-ring (and the c-clip if it takes wing). Newer SP 2nds don't use a c-clip on the vane so I guess they just snap in. Those may be the ones that SP recommends replacing rather than reusing. I have been reusing them on my G500 and wife's S600.

I don't mess with exhaust valves either on plastic regs - just a good cleaning in place including the sealing surfaces. With my metals, I usually disassemble for the initial restoration to put the case through the US cleaner and then reinstall the old valve if it is in good shape. If it is clean and sealing, I don't mess with it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Zung!

I've got some older regs (Mk10's) that I need to open up. I'll make sure and take pics as well since one of them hasn't been "serviced" since the late '90s.
 
What piston does this MK20 have? Hopefully not the creeptastic brass tip. In the photo it looks like the composite piston but it might be an illusion.
 
What piston does this MK20 have? Hopefully not the creeptastic brass tip. In the photo it looks like the composite piston but it might be an illusion.

Composite piston - two o-rings and plastic head.
 
Yes it is.
Lockup has always been and still is snappy, nothing to complain about.
Actually, it took me a year to decide to mess with this reg because I've nothing to complain about.
It seems 10 years is not such a long time.
:D
 
After a week's breaking in, the final result is sort of mixed, but let me remind you I put the "old" marked seat back just to see: initial swing is very fast to 9 bar/131 PSI, then there's a very slow creep to 9.25 bar/134 PSI over 10 minutes as shown in the attached graph: horizontal axis in minute, vertical axis in bar.

This is not unexpected since I disturbed a marked seat, and I know I can get rid of the creep with a new seat. The question is: should I bother?

3 PSI creep is well within SP's specs, and a new seat is $7. No big deal either way. Shall I flip a coin?

And the G250 cracks at 22 mm/.9 inch, as usual.
 

Attachments

  • MK20+G250-Z.jpg
    MK20+G250-Z.jpg
    29.9 KB · Views: 2,283
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom