Scuba Tanks hope?

[Scubaru_Steve]

So I am fairly new to Scuba, I was certified a year ago through PADI and have been on all of 7 dives. Today my dad picked up 2 tanks FOR FREE from one of his co workers. Now they haven't been used in ages and I know I am going to take them in for a full inspection and repair, if they can still be used. Here are some of the pictures of the 2 tanks.

Now I do see some rust on the top of the tank, but nothing on the threads or from what I can see inside. The valves I am looking into replacing, not sure how expensive that will be. I realize the last date they were inspected was in 1991 so if anyone can let me know if these still could be used or if from the pictures there is any rust that could be of harm to them passing inspection.

Also, want to clean em up a bit. Idea's or DIY to repaint/clean them up?

Numbers around the White tank: CTC / DOT - 3AL3000 P409728LUXFER2A89 S - 80

 

[spectrum]

Before we jump to conclusions can you post the markings stamped around the crown?

DIY Paint? Just say no.

Pete

 

[Scubaru_Steve]

Numbers from one canister posted

 

[Scared Silly]

Do a search 6351 cylinders and you will find the hassles folks have with old Luxfer cylinders that were made before 1990. HOWEVER, your cylinders are not part of the "bad" alloy as the last of the Luxfer's made from 6351 was in 1988 and yours was made in 1989 so your cylinders are fine. But some shops will not care cause they were made before 1990.

As for the DIY paint job, I guess I would want to see them in person to make a decision. Best advice take them to a shop where they can be inspected by some one who has been properly trained to inspect cylinders. Or just take them to a hydro and have them inspect them.

 

[Luis H]

After the Luxfer you see the 2A89. That means it is a February 1989, which makes it out of the newer 6061-T6 aluminum alloy. That is good news. Hopefully your local dive shops are well informed. Some LDS just round up the cut off date up to 1990… which is just not right.

There is no rust. Aluminum doesn’t rust, that term only applies to steel oxide.
Aluminum oxide is white. What you are seeing is stained transferred from other contaminates. It is all external to the threads which is not an issue. Just wipe it clean.

IMO those are great Sherwood valves. I would not replace the valves unless they are damaged.


If the paint is already blistering, the best thing you can do for the finish is strip all the paint of using the chemical stripper recommended by Luxfer and leave them bare aluminum. It may not look nice and shiny, but it is the best finish for aluminum tanks. Luxfer was actually selling bare aluminum tanks because they hold up better.

DIY paint will eventually blister and just provides a place to trap salt water.

If the factory paint is not blistering yet, just live it alone.

 

[JBRES1]

If those were my cylinders, I would ......
1) use a paint stripper ( I have used airplane stripper, from the auto parts store ) to remove all of the paint, then wet sand the cylinder .
2) take the cylinders to a hydro shop and have a hydro done on them.
3) take them to the local dive shop for a vis and fill
4) go get the tanks wet in some cold deep water on a hot sunny day.
5) go home , wash gear and have a few cold ones.
6) do it all over again .


Jim Breslin

 

[redacted]

Take them to your local shop(s) and ask if they6 will fill them after hydro and vis. Hopefully at least one will say yes.

 

[Stu S.]

Great find. Luis is right, a well-informed shop will say "good to use". You may want to call a few dive shops and ask about hydro-VIP costs. Around here, hydro, VIP and an air fill can cost $24 or as much as $90.

Those colors look OK to me. I have been told that painting a tank may cause it to fail visual inspection. That's because a tank can have damage (or Bondo) hidden by paint. Mild soap, water and a scrub brush is all I would use. It they look a little beat up, folks may think you are a veteran diver.

 

[mksmith713]

90% of the shops here in So Fla will be more than happy to send them out for hydro,vis and eddy testing.
But they won't fill them even if they do pass.
Ain't that a kick in the @ss?

I have three 1970's LP steel 72's that passed both in June and the shop that sent them for hydro and did the vis won't fill'em......AND THEY'RE STEEL TANKS..
They said they won't fill ANY tank manufactured prior to 1990.

 

[Troutmaster]

I have three 1970's LP steel 72's that passed both in June and the shop that sent them for hydro and did the vis won't fill'em......AND THEY'RE STEEL TANKS..
They said they won't fill ANY tank manufactured prior to 1990.

I would not want a shop that ignorant touching any of my stuff. I would very politly explain to the owner of the shop that his policy is retarded and that you will never be doing buisness with him agian unless he changes it, then leave.

If shops don't want to fill pre-90 AL tanks because it is an easy policy to enforce/understand, fine, there are some really safety concerns with the "bad" aluminum alloy used in SOME tanks pre-90. But to refuse an LP STEEL tank that has current hydro and vis is just stupid, and probably designed to get you to buy newer tanks.