Rinse & soak

[supergaijin]

Properly sealed 'dust' caps can and do build air pressure behind them- ever tried to loosen one and have trouble? That says to me that if air can be trapped, water has no way to get in or out. I can find no reason for a full immersion soak once the dry dustcap has been secured.

Consider the amount of times that cylinders are changed on a boat with sea spray, wet hands- not to mention the cringe-worthy blowing of compressed air to 'dry' the cap and sometimes even blowing directly in to the first stage.

I wasn't aware of the Atomic seat- the only reg I knew of that 'needed' pressure was the Sherwood.

Pressurised is best for any reg.

If you can tolerate the temperature on your elbow, it isn't hot enough to damage o-rings or lubes.

 

[ppatin]

I would never advise anyone to soak an unpressurized reg with just the dust cap on. It's called a dust cap. Not a water proof cap. In a tank with other gear you also run the risk of that other gear pressing the purge button on the second stages. If you can' t pressurize the reg don't soak the first stage. Take it in the shower with you and rinse it there. It only takes a few minutes to rinse a reg unless you've allowed salt water or crappy water to dry on it and not bothered to rinse it as soon as you can.

Ok, thanks for that advice. Would you advise soaking just the first stages (assuming I can keep the purge buttons safe from being pressed?) or is that unnecessary?

I appreciate all the replies BTW. There seems to be a lot of conflicting/bad advice out there, even from instructors, so I'm trying to figure out the best practices for taking care of my reg.

---------- Post Merged at 09:55 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 09:53 AM ----------

not to mention the cringe-worthy blowing of compressed air to 'dry' the cap and sometimes even blowing directly in to the first stage.

Uh oh, I have frequently been guilty of that (it's something my OW instructor taught me.) Out of curiosity why is it a bad idea?

 

[supergaijin]

Uh oh, I have frequently been guilty of that (it's something my OW instructor taught me.) Out of curiosity why is it a bad idea?

Blow drying the cap is one thing- just be very very very sure that you're not blowing anything in to the first stage. A towel or shammy cloth is the best thing to use.

The first stage has a dry chamber and a wet chamber (which allows water pressure to act upon it). The dry chamber theoretically never sees any water as the air pressure keeps it out. This is the part that connects directly to the tank. Blowing cold compressed air (with water and particles) in here to 'dry it':

a) achieves nothing (as it was never wet)
b) may introduce water or particles like sand.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

Plus blow drying the cap with tank air is very annnoying to those around you. The worst are those who do it by cracking the valve wide open for what seems like minutes. A towel, chammy, or end of a tshirt is faster,.safer, and most of all not offensive to the ears.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[halocline]

Keeping the reg pressurized is one of the best things you can do, soaking the reg with the dust cap on is one of the worst things you can do....

Most importantly don't leave the reg stored with the dust cap on after cleaning, it's probably going to have some moisture in it from the water or condensation from the expansion of air from the tank during use. Leave the cap off for a day or two so it can breath and dry out inside.

Sorry guy, I know we just finished with the other thread on 2nd stages.....

There is no problem soaking a first stage with the dust cap on, as long as it fits well. In fact, that's what it's for. Every day thousands of divers around the world do this without damaging their first stage. I've been doing it for years, and since I rebuild my own regulators, I see first hand that there's no damage caused as a result. It is a good idea to run some air through a reg after soaking; this dries out the 2nd stages and anything that might have seeped in a hose. If you do this there's really no need to store the reg with the dust cap off, although doing so is unlikely to hurt anything.

---------- Post Merged at 12:20 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 12:13 PM ----------

I would never advise anyone to soak an unpressurized reg with just the dust cap on. It's called a dust cap. Not a water proof cap.

Regardless of what it's called, if it's good shape and securely in place the cap will keep water out, no problem. In fact, with DIN caps, it seals exactly the way the tank valve does.

The big problem with regulator damage is salt water corrosion. Soaking, not dunking, in fresh water really helps with getting any trace of salt out of the ambient chamber, exposed threads, interior of the 2nd stage, anyplace salt water is likely to dry.

I don't bother soaking my regs after a local spring dive; that water is cleaner (and has no chlorine) than my tap water.

 

[Nemrod]

Y'all just need an AL with the ACD. My wife drags her Legend through the water as a regular practice despite my best begging and plaintive calls for her to stop doing so. Taking it apart yesterday in preparation for an upcoming trip, it is pristine inside.

N

 

[Karl_H]

Sorry guy, I know we just finished with the other thread on 2nd stages.....

Hehe, no worries - good discussions are never a problem

There is no problem soaking a first stage with the dust cap on, as long as it fits well. In fact, that's what it's for. Every day thousands of divers around the world do this without damaging their first stage. I've been doing it for years, and since I rebuild my own regulators, I see first hand that there's no damage caused as a result. It is a good idea to run some air through a reg after soaking; this dries out the 2nd stages and anything that might have seeped in a hose. If you do this there's really no need to store the reg with the dust cap off, although doing so is unlikely to hurt anything.

I'd agree with a good quality plastic or delrin DIN cap, sadly most divers are still in the land of yoke or use the rubber yoke-style dustcaps on DIN regs that come with the Scubapro DIN regs. I like to clean off the threads of my DIN regs and make sure the area inside of the threads (between the tank connections and DIN thread) is cleaned to make the thread spin more freely.

I've had problems in the past with regs "icing up" quickly once water is inside, so it takes at least 3 or 4 blasts with 30 second breaks in between to get out most of the water, and thats here in the tropics as well as colder places - that said it could be something to do with the humidity here? I wouldn't trust the filtration standards on a lot of filling stations here!

I find if I use the dustcaps right after cleaning the regs they have a slight mildew taste at first the next time they are used (but no viable corrosion or growth if stripped down), while leaving the caps off for a day or two solves the problem.

I will always try to quickly hose down my regs within a few minutes of getting out of the water, when this isn't possible I may leave them to soak, but it's always on the tank, it's mainly to keep the reg pressurised but I'll be honest it also quicker than cleaning the reg and tank separately too! I always make sure to clean the no sealed chamber with running water though.

The springs here tend to be very muddy so regs normally need a rinse to get off the mud/clay that seems to get everywhere during exits - that stuff is hard to get off once it's dried! But like you said, the best place to rinse them is normally the spring water itself, I'd not even though about it been better for the regs than tap water - good point!

 

[dumpsterDiver]

Sorry guy, I know we just finished with the other thread on 2nd stages.....

There is no problem soaking a first stage with the dust cap on, as long as it fits well. In fact, that's what it's for. Every day thousands of divers around the world do this without damaging their first stage. I've been doing it for years, and since I rebuild my own regulators, I see first hand that there's no damage caused as a result. It is a good idea to run some air through a reg after soaking; this dries out the 2nd stages and anything that might have seeped in a hose. If you do this there's really no need to store the reg with the dust cap off, although doing so is unlikely to hurt anything.

---------- Post Merged at 12:20 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 12:13 PM ----------



Regardless of what it's called, if it's good shape and securely in place the cap will keep water out, no problem. In fact, with DIN caps, it seals exactly the way the tank valve does.

The big problem with regulator damage is salt water corrosion. Soaking, not dunking, in fresh water really helps with getting any trace of salt out of the ambient chamber, exposed threads, interior of the 2nd stage, anyplace salt water is likely to dry.

I don't bother soaking my regs after a local spring dive; that water is cleaner (and has no chlorine) than my tap water.

I completely agree. I saw a reduction in corrosion and frequency of overhauls when i started soaking in freshwater with a dust cap. If you are anal, just hook it up to the tank and blow it dry by pressing the purges when done. i never leave the dust cap off.

And now for my rant. dust caps are the worst designed POS in the whole scuba industry! A plstic cap that the o-ring always falls out of? A rubber cap with a recess to store water in, so that it always delivers water to the first stage? What we need is a very hard rubber ball, that has a flat spot for the screw to contact and this would be simple to dry and have no reservoir of water... It really is an important consideration... the OLD scuba pro ones were hard rubber cylinders.. those were excellent , but now SP has a crappy one..

 

[gcarter]

I completely agree. I saw a reduction in corrosion and frequency of overhauls when i started soaking in freshwater with a dust cap. If you are anal, just hook it up to the tank and blow it dry by pressing the purges when done. i never leave the dust cap off.

And now for my rant. dust caps are the worst designed POS in the whole scuba industry! A plstic cap that the o-ring always falls out of? A rubber cap with a recess to store water in, so that it always delivers water to the first stage? What we need is a very hard rubber ball, that has a flat spot for the screw to contact and this would be simple to dry and have no reservoir of water... It really is an important consideration... the OLD scuba pro ones were hard rubber cylinders.. those were excellent , but now SP has a crappy one..

This is a picture of my reg with a ball. It that what you mean? I certainly find it easy / quick to dry, and it definitely seals well.

XTX40

 

[ElGaucho]

Completely agree with halocline, no problem soaking regs, just cover. I wash the valves of the tanks too. Tanks themselves of course, but more water in the valve and the neck. Also helps keeping them going in the long haul. Dried out salt is BAD.