Return to Cozumel after 6 year absence

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Los tacosales wasn't bad but wasn't as good as previous trips and unfortunately taco pastor Las gringos is no longer on the menu from the Los otates days.

That makes me sad. That was my favorite thing to get there. Maybe I will skip them this trip then and try it next time. I have so many on my list from my restaurant thread that there's no way I'm getting through them all. I do appreciate the heads up on the menu change!
 
Yes, that was our assessment as well.
It had always been a must for us.
Challengas more than made up for it to me. Absolutely loved the pastor and chicken quesadilla and pineapple water. Not 2 mention dinner for 2 for under 10$
 
If you plan to do the test at the hospital, it has been my experience that you will want to schedule an appointment ahead of time (as far in advance as possible) for the day you want to get tested. Just showing up will likely not work. Wouldn't have for me. The International Hospital has been requiring appointments.
Not true at International Hospital. The last few trips to the US we just walked in and were taken care of quickly. Our many (not really, just felt that way) houseguests did the same with no issue. Highly recommend International Hospital!
 
Today's diving was fantastic. The current was back down to normal levels and we did Palancar Gardens first. The wow factor after so long was just off the charts. I honestly had forgotten how beautiful this site was. I had my first zen moment of the trip where I just forgot where I was for a few minutes and just took in the beauty all around me. This is exactly why we all come here. There was nothing too crazy to see as far as wildlife, but of course 'the usual' never disappoints. There were a couple of very large trunkfish that went right by me which was fun. At the end of the dive we passed two green turtles having lunch, one on the reef and one over in the sea grass, just as we were ascending for our safety stop.

The second dive was San Clemente which was not as exciting, formation-wise, but we still saw some very cool stuff. A couple of large puffer fish greeted us just as we began. Then right after that there was a rockfish hiding in the coral that Miguel spotted, and just past him I found two more huddled together on the sandy floor behind a small coral head. So I now have my first ever sighting of two rockfish side by side! Very cool. Later I found a couple of large lobster hiding away in the nooks and crannies with my flashlight. Otherwise a very uneventful but peaceful, shallow dive.

And then came a night at El Moro which I have just returned from. I am incredibly disappointed... that I've been coming to Cozumel since 15 years ago and never knew about this place! After arriving I was quite sure I'd never been there before - I would have remembered the camels! I sat down and talked to the host about dinner options and recommendations, and decided to go with the Shrimp Vera Cruz. It was, hands down, the best shrimp dish I've ever had on the island, and I told them so. The garlic bread served with it was also incredible and seasoned perfectly to my tastes. Fresh out of the oven and I was shoveling it into my face as fast as I could, 2nd degree burns be damned. It was absolutely one of the most fantastic meals I've had in Cozumel. I told them I was very sorry for not having found them sooner and I would be back before I left this trip. I found out they are doing a special Mayan cuisine night on Sunday, so that's on the books. Can't recommend the place highly enough. They were gracious enough to offer me a shot of a honey licorice liquor which I have already lost the name of, but he explained it was very special to Mayan culture. It was delicious and I was grateful for their hospitality. Just as I was finishing, the couple behind me struck up a conversation and I ended up joining them at their table where we talked about diving around the world for another hour. This was their first time back to Cozumel since the late 80's so it was incredible to hear their experiences. All in all, a fantastic evening.

Until tomorrow...
 
They were gracious enough to offer me a shot of a honey licorice liquor which I have already lost the name of, but he explained it was very special to Mayan culture. It was delicious and I was grateful for their hospitality.
Xtabentun (Shtah-bin-TOON). Like a black jelly bean with a kick. I love the stuff.
 
After I wrote my report last night I found a curveball waiting for me in my email. My dive op had me, and me alone, on their schedule for Thursday and Fridays so they had to cancel those dives. Flexibility is the name of the game if you want to be happy in Cozumel, so we worked out an agreeable resolution. I'm now doing a previously unscheduled twilight and night dive with them tonight, and swapped one of my future days off for the Friday slot. Suddenly I had two free days on my hands. What was I going to do?

Dive of course!

I hit up Aldora to see if they had space for me, and they did! So for the next two mornings I'll be diving steel tanks with them, which will be a first for me. Looking forward to it after all the great things I've read about them on this board.

As for today's dives, they were fantastic. With only two divers on the boat it felt like a private charter. We hit up Palancar Horseshoe first and the current was gentle and perfect for a lazy tour of the towers everywhere you look. We did plenty of swimthroughs and just had a lot of fun with our small scuba team of 3.

At the start of the dive a green turtle graced us with a close flyover as he headed to his next appointment. Later, as we got ready to start our safety stop, another turtle was swimming by just below us and as I swam over the sandy bottom to get a closer look at him, I scared up a southern stingray right below me! He took off in a hurry, surely muttering unkind things about the disturber of his nap. Sorry buddy, didn't see you there, I swear!

Second dive was part of Cedral, what Martin called the Cedral Mountains. It's like a slow motion rollercoaster with 'waves' of reef that we swam up, over, and back down. Towards the mid point of the dive I bagged my first green moray sighting of this trip, and he was a big boy! He was napping under a shelf, and I used my light to get a better view, taking care not to shine it in his face. Because nobody likes that, right? Even still, after half a minute of that he seemed to be getting a bit agitated and started to give me sideways glances, so I let him be and moved along down the reef.

The rest of the Mountains after that were absolutely littered with barracuda. We must have seen at least 20 of them out and about, including a big school of 8 or so out for a jaunt together. I love seeing them. Such a smart and curious fish! They've been my dive buddy for good portions of previous dives while they followed me around trying to figure out what I was all about.

Right at the end of the Mountains we got another fantastic turtle sighting, with this big green goofball chowing down like a madman on some coral, while a barracuda sat motionless a few feet away. A couple of french Angelfish were hanging out by the turtle's mouth, snapping up whatever they could get from the buffet.

And then we were back on the boat and comparing notes on our sightings - apparently I missed a golden eel right at the end. Next time!

Now I just have a couple more hours of SI before it's time to head to Fonatur for the night dives, so no restaurant report tonight. I'll have to catch everyone up on the night dive tomorrow because with no siesta today I am pretty sure I'll get back from that and collapse into bed. Gotta be up early to meet the Aldora crew! Hasta luego, amigos.
 
Steel 120's? If so, you'll need no more than 2-3 lbs of weight.. You'll like the 90 minute down time Aldora offers!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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