Repair manifold, or just replace?

[Jimmer]

OK, here's the situation, I picked up a used set of doubles last year, got a good deal on them. They have an OMS manifold on them, and the isolation knob is leaking now. My instructor and I pulled them apart and found that the brass gasket at the bottom is totally worn away, and the copper crush washers need to be replaced. The tanks are due for Hydro next month, so this is an opportune time to do something about it. Would you guys recommend just ordering the required parts from OMS, or just dumping the thing, and getting a new manifold. If so, what brands are recommended? I know I can get OMS, DiveRite/Halcyon/Sea Elite, and Thermo. So let's hear some suggestions.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[rjack321]

I have thermos so I'm not familiar with the brass gasket you mention. But crush washers need to be replaced everytime you open the valve so those are normal.

If the OMS is the barrel O-ring type I would rebuild it - cost should be around $50 in parts. If it is the face sealing type I would chuck it for a sea-elite or thermo.

 

[Jimmer]

It's the face O-ring type. I've been really considering dumping it off for a while now. A lot will just depend on what it will cost to buy a new manifold, since I'm still in college, and can't afford to spend what I would like to at the moment. But yeah, I think I would prefer a Sea-Elite, if the price is right.

 

[Packhorse]

If the OMS is the barrel O-ring type I would rebuild it - cost should be around $50 in parts. If it is the face sealing type I would chuck it for a sea-elite or thermo.

Why? Is the face sealing type really that bad or just uneconomical to repair.
For some strange reason manifolds retail for about $600nz ($400us) here.
I have a OMS that I picked up second hand (unused) for $200nz and just got a barrel thermo for $160nz
Any idea if you can buy blanking plugs for thermo barrel manifolds so I can use them as individual valves?
Sorry for the hijack

 

[Jimmer]

Why? Is the face sealing type really that bad or just uneconomical to repair.
For some strange reason manifolds retail for about $600nz ($400us) here.
I have a OMS that I picked up second hand (unused) for $200nz and just got a barrel thermo for $160nz
Any idea if you can buy blanking plugs for thermo barrel manifolds so I can use them as individual valves?
Sorry for the hijack

Yep, I know the plugs are available, I've seen those manifolds broken down as left and right modular valves.

 

[hunter991]

If your budget is tight I would work out the costs to see which will get you diving again the cheapest. I really like the salvo manifolds but have some customers who like OMS manifolds.

Brent

 

[tech_diver]

Hey Jimmer,

Don't dump the manifold just yet.

As long as none of the seating surfaces are compromised it can be rebuilt with no problem. you need three rebuild kits Pat #V-400K around $18.00 each. Labor will be up to the store and can vary. Even if there is a problem with the crossbar you can still make individual valves. Someone already mentioned the caps part#v112.

 

[Jimmer]

Thanks Jack, I actually already have the caps, and I'm using the tanks as singles right now, because of the leak out of the isolation knob. What all is included in the #V-400K kit?

 

[rjack321]

Why? Is the face sealing type really that bad or just uneconomical to repair.
For some strange reason manifolds retail for about $600nz ($400us) here.
I have a OMS that I picked up second hand (unused) for $200nz and just got a barrel thermo for $160nz
Any idea if you can buy blanking plugs for thermo barrel manifolds so I can use them as individual valves?
Sorry for the hijack

Personally, I hate the face sealing type. I tried to set up some friend's doubles once and it never seemed right to me.

The barrel manifolds are a snap to assemble and get right (at least after your 1st or 2nd try).

 

[tech_diver]

The parts kits will include all the soft parts to rebuild the valve, packing washer, orings, seat, copper gasket. The critical surfaces are under the bonnet where the packing washer seals and the lip of the bonnet nut that contacts the copper gasket. Check the oring grooves as usual and the orifice that seals against the seat. Any compromises large enough to detect with the naked eye will prevent the surface from sealing.

There are proponents of the barrel seal crossbar and face sealing cross bar. The captured oring face seal is a little more secure but the barrel seal cross bar can accomodate more tank bands because the intercylinder distance can vary.

It's a matter of the right gear for the appropriate job.