regulator service, specifically for 2nd stage, what is involved?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

eelnoraa

Contributor
Messages
4,113
Reaction score
1,075
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
# of dives
100 - 199
When you take a 2nd stage in for service, what the tech actually do? Break down the parts, thoroughly clean, replace o-rings and seat, lube, put back together, make proper breathing adjustment. What else should happen?
 
Bench test to make sure it's performing within specifications.

Fill out any warranty paperwork.
 
When you take a 2nd stage in for service, what the tech actually do? Break down the parts, thoroughly clean, replace o-rings and seat, lube, put back together, make proper breathing adjustment. What else should happen?

I like to do a "bubble check" of the 2nd's after servicing them. I also use it to check for very slight leaks at various regulator hose connections, especially at the SPG/HP hose connection after servicing a reg set.

Maybe overkill, but I have the luxury of time as a non-tech, DIY guy.... probably a lot more time than a tech might have to service a set of regs....

Submerging the 2nds in a bin full of water, pressurizing them, then waiting several minutes to see if any bubbles appear is a good way to detect very slight leaks, and I use it as one of my "final" checks after servicing and "tuning" the regs.

Best wishes.
 
Yes, wet testing should be part of the bench test process.
 
bubble test for leak is easy. For breathing efford adjustment, I don't have a dedicated device for it, so I just do it so that it is on the verge of free flow with the adjustment knob all the way out (maybe just a bit more inward). Is there anything else?

So the reason I asked is because I did a very sandy dive over the weekend. Despite all the efford of clean, I can still hear sand cracking noise inside when I turn the knob. So I took them apart, cleaned everything, lubed, put back together, then made above justment and bubble test. The 2nd stage worked just fine. It seems the whole process isn't complicated at all. I would even say the inside is very simple inside. Honestly, it just takes some common sense and maybe a pair of careful hands. I kind of think if I were to replace the o-rings and the seat, I just did my 2nd stage a service. I just wonder if it is really that simple, or did I miss something there.
 
... For breathing efford adjustment, I don't have a dedicated device for it, so I just do it so that it is on the verge of free flow with the adjustment knob all the way out (maybe just a bit more inward)...

You can make yourself one for a massive investment of about $2:

81421d1282587128-r109-lever-height-manometer.jpg


Regarding the bubble test, I tend to find it messy since I don't have a dedicated workbench and I operate out of my dining room. So I just turn off the air, leave it alone for half an hour and see if the pressure off the SPG has dropped. A perfectly sealed reg can stand for days.
 
Servicing a reg is about the whole set, not just one part. The 1st must generate a stable ip then the seconds must be matched to that.
Ps. Sand gets everywhere.

---------- Post Merged at 03:29 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 03:29 AM ----------

Servicing a reg is about the whole set, not just one part. The 1st must generate a stable ip then the seconds must be matched to that.
Ps. Sand gets everywhere.
 
how do you use that massive investment?

  • 1 yard of 1/4" plastic pipe: $1
  • 1 ruler: $1
  • 2 cable ties: 5 cts.
  • 5 cc of demineralized water: 5cts
  • Grand total: $2.10

Actually I cheated, I liberated the ruler from one of my kids, so my cost is half of that.

The device is self calibrating (slide the pipe up & down to match the water level), self compensating for altitude, and requires only about 1 cc of water every quater to top off.

If you really want to get fancy, do it herman's way and add some colour to the water.
 
I have one of those massive 2$ investments....:D.

What I do is hook it up with plastic tubing to an old mouthpiece. Attach the old mouthpiece to the just serviced 2nd stage. Breathe in... Watch the IP gauge reading drop (now that is certainly more than 2$, but that is another story....). Voila - you can now read your cracking pressure!!! Adjust to manufacturer's specs or to your preference.
 

Back
Top Bottom