reg leaking - normal?

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It seems both Aqualung and Apeks are very similar.
When my Apeks 2nd stage started to leak I would check the IP of the first stage first.
The seat in the 2nd stage needs to be replaced on routine full service. A cracked crown is possible but not very common.
I wonder if the OP is willing to roll up his sleeve and plunge into the unknown(not rocket science).
Actually, the Titan LX and Legend use the same second stage kit as most of the Apeks seconds. I maintain 4 Titan LX's (3 old style and 1 new) and 2 Apeks XTX's. Can't Talk... Diving is correct. The shuttle spring adjustment requires only a hex wrench (if an adjustment knob is not installed). The cross pin is not involved.
 
ok wow i didn't realize there were so many replies on here! thank you all for the input. i would DEFINITELY like to understand better how to adjust and/or service stuff myself. it's slightly tricky as i live in singapore and tanks/airfills are not really a common thing here like other countries but still not unheard of. I was under the impression i needed some proprietary tools to self-service an aqualung reg.

fwiw i did adjust the reg with a hex wrench on the boat as suggested by @Nemrod but couldn't get it to stop flowing after what I felt was quite a decent turn (i didn't really specifically note how much of a turn it was). the tech had shown me where it was previously and mentioned a slight turn should settle it if it was a bit too sensitive. when it didn't respond to that i wasn't sure where to go from there.
 
Singapore is a modern society with ready assess to anything.
The only 'special tool' that you need is the Intermediate Pressure Gauge:
A must have item to check the performance of the 1st stage. You might be able to get it at "Living Oceans".
 
i have an IP gauge. its just the cost of tanks here that make it tricky in this 'modern society' lol. almost all diving is travel diving here so owning tanks isn't the norm. i could always rent a tank if i wanted to give it a shot, or see if any buddies may have one
 
fwiw i did adjust the reg with a hex wrench on the boat as suggested by @Nemrod but couldn't get it to stop flowing after what I felt was quite a decent turn
To me, this seems to narrow it down to the seat being engraved enough to effect lever height or an IP creep issue.
i have an IP gauge. its just the cost of tanks here that make it tricky in this 'modern society' lol. almost all diving is travel diving here so owning tanks isn't the norm. i could always rent a tank if i wanted to give it a shot, or see if any buddies may have one
If you want to go down the DIY rabbit hole, but exclusively travel dive, you might look into a reasonably sized pony tank. I started that way while stationed in Korea where they wouldn't rent tanks out unless it was to dive with them (but I did have access to fills). I used the pony (AL19) for maintenance checks at home and brought it with on vacations to use as a pony.

In the short term, I'd see about borrowing a tank or even see if a local shop will let you just put your reg on a tank to pressurize it and check for IP stability. If it's creeping, then it needs the first stage rebuilt. If it isn't creeping, then go from there with what to do about an air supply for tuning.

If there's no IP creep, then based on your descriptions of what you've done/the reg's behavior, then the remaining options are turn the orifice in a bit to fix lever height and retune, or replace the seat and retune.

Just my opinion from across the internet.... Others please feel free to poke holes in my thought process here.

Respectfully,

James
 
Most likely this regulator needs a seat replacement and possibly a new orifice. But, just for entertainment value, using the hex wrench, turn the adjustment screw back outward until it stops against the pin and then turn it inward 1.75 turns. Then on the hose side, turn the orifice inward (purge pressed in) 1/8 turn (from it's original position).

Also, with the purge cover removed leaving the inner diaphram retainer undisturbed, does the regulator still leak?

James
 
OP needs a filled tank to carry out all the suggested methods.
I was in an identical situation in the beginning but luckily I was in a very good term with an local operator so tank was not an issue.

Good luck.
 
ok let me see if i can scrounge a tank. any other tips for how to get started servicing my own reg? thanks for all the input here
 
ok let me see if i can scrounge a tank. any other tips for how to get started servicing my own reg? thanks for all the input here
Locate service manuals and/or diagrams for your regs (my first stop is usually Home | Vintage Double Hose , look at the bottom of the page for the link to manuals and catalogs).
I'm not particular familiar with those regs, so someone else will have to speak to any special tools needed... but most special tools have an improvised replacement.
A lot of people recommend the books Regulator Savvy (by Pete Wolfinger), and Regulator Maintenance and Repair (by Vance Harlow). I have to admit to not having read either, but I'm also very mechanically inclined.
Make sure ahead of time to have any parts you need on hand (o-rings, seats, appropriate grease). This may come in the form of a service kit, or just getting the specific bits needed.
If you haven't yet, look at the non invasive checks that @couv put together ( Regulator Inspection and Checklist (Rev-8) )
Ask for help here in the forum as needed... guarantee someone here will have the answer!

Respectfully,

James
 
Start here:


If you want to take a formal class:


It's specific for Hog regulators, but the principles are the same for a lot of other regulators.

And of course there is this guy (highly recommended for when you are really ready to do some serious regulator stuff on your own):

 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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