reg leaking - normal?

[lexvil]

My go to regulator and the one I trust the most to always work is a Titan LX I bought in 2008. I have overhauled it once. Of course I did the work. The Titan LX fist stage is a Conshelf type with a replaceable volcano orifice. If you have the Supreme (sealed) version this first stage can go years between service as long as you do the "Regulators Checklist" and check IP.



The Titan LX second stage is a high performance non-adjustable (no knob) pneumatic balanced unit and is basically the same as the Legend minus the adjustment knob. It is a solid second stage and can also go long intervals without service if you rinse and soak appropriately after use.

Most likely the seat has taken a set and without the adjustment knob you cannot run it in to compensate. As the others have said, this is easy to fix and is sort of normal. What is normal on a serviced reg is to set the reg up a little tight knowing the seat will take a set. It is kind of a guess and either the tech guessed wrong or he did not account for break-in at all.

Here is the PL, Item 24 is the seat, the likely culprit that needs adjustment by screwing the orifice, Item 18, in about 1/16 turn.



The Legend and Titan LX (which became the Core) are top performing regulators, the equal of anything on the market and all are super reliable.

Other likely possibilities, it needs a new seat, it needs a new orifice. I would turn the orifice in a 1/16 turn at a time. If by 1/4 turn it has not stopped leaking, well, it may need those things replaced. Items 25, 26 and 28 could be at fault but that is much less likely

James

James, wouldn’t it be an easy adjustment by removing #31 and turning in #30, this is where I would start in his shoes but I don’t have a lot of experience with these.

 

[Nemrod]

James, wouldn’t it be an easy adjustment by removing #31 and turning in #30, this is where I would start in his shoes but I don’t have a lot of experience with these.

I agree, that is the fine adjustment, and if the adjustment is just a hair off that should do it. Good point, thank you for adding that. You are right. It would be similar to turning the knob in on the Legend so equipped. There is a pin, Item 22, installed across the end of the tube assembly that might have to be removed for access, I was trying to get around having to take that out for a newbie. But adjusting the orifice will affect the lever height if grossly done.

I usually set up non-adjustable regs a little tight but on an adjustable I set it to almost leak with the knob full out. It is not unusual on a non-adjustable second stage to need some fine tuning if the tech did not account for break-in.

BTW, it is possible to convert the Titan LX and Core to a hybrid Legend and add the parts to install the knob.

And one other thing, do not turn the orifice in (or out), should it come to that, without first depressing the purge button or lever as the LP seat can be cut.

James

 

[Still Kicking]

The pin does not need to be removed. Just pop the cap (31) off and adjust the screw (30) with a 4mm hex head wrench. The pin is there to prevent the screw from being backed out too far.

If it's a slow leak, 1/2 turn is usually sufficient.

Also worth mentioning that a freeflow is more likely if the Venturi lever is the + position. People tend to think that this is "better" or "more air."

I am also a fan of the Core and the Titan LX before it. Great performance, design and value. The environmental seal is nice to have but not really essential. All that is exposed to the environment is the main spring (super durable) and is easily flushed with a quick rinse. The rest of the reg is sealed by the diaphragm.

 

[Nemrod]

The pin does not need to be removed. Just pop the cap (31) off and adjust the screw (30) with a 4mm hex head wrench. The pin is there to prevent the screw from being backed out too far.

A ball end driver might make it easier to fish past the cross pin, that way can come at a slight angle as needed and still turn the screw. As you say, it should only take a little.

When the LP seat takes a set, the lever will rise. The lever is to be flush to the top of the edge of the bottom case. Screwing the orifice, 22, inward lowers the lever, outward raises the lever. This is why I suggested turning the orifice originally. I agree that using the fine adjustment screw will probably get the OP fixed up, as long as the lever is not impinging upon the diaphragm and that is the cause of the leak. And that really should not be the case here.

I think, now, the OP should do as you and @lexvil have suggested first. Always count or reference the amount of turn so the original position can be returned too if needed. If I remember correctly, the starting position is with the screw just clearing the cross pin holes. The Supreme gets an additional 1.25 turns and the standard gets .75 turns past flush to the cross pin holes. .

I love he new Core first stage with ACD. The thing is so tiny, fully sealed and with the ACD may could go years between service as long as the IP is stable. It is a great first stage and the cone shaped Titan LX first stage is still my favorite.

This is from the Core MM but the Titan LX is essentially the same regulator:



And from the LX MM:

The AL LP seats, at least the newer ones, are silicone and are resistant to taking much set. But they will still engrave, just not as deeply as some older seats many of us are accustomed too.

James

 

[Still Kicking]

A ball end driver might make it easier to fish past the cross pin, that way can come at a slight angle as needed and still turn the screw. As you say, it should only take a little.

When the LP seat takes a set, the lever will rise. The lever is to be flush to the top of the edge of the bottom case. Screwing the orifice, 22, inward lowers the lever, outward raises the lever. This is why I suggested turning the orifice originally. I agree that using the fine adjustment screw will probably get the OP fixed up, as long as the lever is not impinging upon the diaphragm and that is the cause of the leak. And that really should not be the case here.

I think, now, the OP should do as you and @lexvil have suggested first. Always count or reference the amount of turn so the original position can be returned too if needed. If I remember correctly, the starting position is with the screw just clearing the cross pin holes. The Supreme gets an additional 1.25 turns and the standard gets .75 turns past flush to the cross pin holes. I might should check the MM on that.

I love he new Core first stage with ACD. The thing is so tiny, fully sealed and with the ACD may could go years between service as long as the IP is stable. It is a great first stage and the cone shaped Titan LX first stage is still my favorite.

James

The pin doesnt get in the way of adjustment at all. You can't see it without disassembling the second stage. It goes into the groove in the screw and limits range of adjustment in and out. Take a look at your LX. It's the same as the Apeks regs.

The best thing about the new Core/Titan vs the old style LX is anyone can change the HP seat in 10 seconds with an 8mm wrench vs stacking parts in a forcing cone. Both great regs though.

 

[Nemrod]

The pin doesnt get in the way of adjustment at all. You can't see it without disassembling the second stage. It goes into the groove in the screw and limits range of adjustment in and out. Take a look at your LX. It's the same as the Apeks regs.

The best thing about the new Core/Titan vs the old style LX is anyone can change the HP seat in 10 seconds with an 8mm wrench vs stacking parts in a forcing cone. Both great regs though.

I just had right shoulder rotator cuff repair thanks to a cell phone texting woman who smashed my brand new car to bits and bunged me up pretty good, I cannot pull anything off of anything right now. Or I would and then take a photos of the adjustment for the OP. I am just recalling from memory. The Titan LX/Core/Legend so infrequently require adjustment in use I may not recall, lol, that I can get the wrench past the pin, . Thanks for the clarification.

James

 

[Still Kicking]

I just had right shoulder rotator cuff repair thanks to a cell phone texting woman who smashed my brand new car to bits and bunged me up pretty good. I cannot pull anything off of anything right now. Or I would and then take a photos of the adjustment for the OP. I am just recalling from memory. The Titan LX/Core/Legend so infrequently require adjustment in use I may not recall, lol, that I can get the wrench past the pin, . Thanks for the clarification.

James

It's a testament to their reliability!

Sorry to hear about the accident. Good luck with the recovery and hope the insurance company treats you right.

 

[Centrals]

It seems both Aqualung and Apeks are very similar.
When my Apeks 2nd stage started to leak I would check the IP of the first stage first.
The seat in the 2nd stage needs to be replaced on routine full service. A cracked crown is possible but not very common.
I wonder if the OP is willing to roll up his sleeve and plunge into the unknown(not rocket science).

 

[happy-diver]

Oh man, here's a quick recovery to you and some perusals whilst you recover

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Freedom Plate Divers Roll Call: show us your rig!

@couv inspired this thread and it is long overdue. This is my stainless steel Freedom Plate, circa 2012: The red webbing supports a "rescue ring". Here is an older image of the roller on the lower guides for shoulder adjustment This Highland cam band modification made them much easier to...

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Prrrrft!

Back to business we have a reputable sp regulator guy trained by the companies that always
adjusts to the nth nanopascal, and all his stuff freeflows, and he's told but he does not listen

and the populous still comes back in droves, and we adjust his stuff on the boat, on his boat.



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[Couv]

I just had right shoulder rotator cuff repair thanks to a cell phone texting woman who smashed my brand new car to bits and bunged me up pretty good, I cannot pull anything off of anything right now. Or I would and then take a photos of the adjustment for the OP. I am just recalling from memory. The Titan LX/Core/Legend so infrequently require adjustment in use I may not recall, lol, that I can get the wrench past the pin, . Thanks for the clarification.

James

Call Elon and ask him to send over his Neuralink and the accompanying robotic arm. :-D