With the dust cap installed tightly on the reg (and obviously all the hoses, port plugs, etc in place) inhale from the reg. You should hear the diaphragm depress but get absolutely no air through the reg with a moderately hard inhalation attempt.
If you hear and or feel air coming through the reg you have a leak.
1. Diaphragm leaks tend to create bit of mist in the inhaled air and they "feel" wet rather than gurgle. These can be found by removing the diaphragm ang looking at it with a back light source while gently stretching the diaphragm. The hole(s) show up as pinpricks of light showing through. Tears can cause gurgle noises as well as really wet breathing and the tears are self evident when you remove the diapgragm.
2. Case cracks are sadly pretty common on plastic cased second stages and they are most commonly found around the inlet fitting where the hose from the first stage enters the second stage. These usually also cause wet breathing rather than gurgling.
3. Cracks in mouthpieces are very common but again usually cause wet breathing rather than gurgling. The cracks are easy to find with gentle stretching of the mouthpiece.
4. In the G250 there are 3 o-rings that seal the case - 2 on the air barrel itself and 1 for the Viva Flow vane. All can leak and cause problems but the Viva flow vane o-ring is most likely to dry out as it is more exposed and is not normally replaced or relubed during an annual service. If the flow vane turns very easily with very little friction, a worn/dried out o-ring is a possibility and it should be replaced.
5. The exhaust valve is a likely candidate for gurgling noises. It may be torn, it may just have caught an edge in the spokes that support the center of the exhaust valve, or it may have a piece of dirt, salt, etc stuck in a manner that prevents it from properly sealing against the case. Screwing the purge cover off and removing the diaphragm is easier than removing the exhaust valve cover in the center of the exhaust tee - and if you removed the daphragm for inspection it is already visible.
If not, depending on age and model there will either be a pin to push out to remove the cover or two allen head screws that can be removed with a 3/32" allen wrench. If you need to replace a torn or dried out exhaust valve you will need to remove the cover.
If you find a problem, and correct it be sure to do the vacuum check again to be sure there was not more than one problem and to be sure that every thing was properly re-assembled and resealed and then test it thoroughly on the surface to ensure proper function before your next dive. If in doubt about the problem, the fix or the reassembly, take it to a tech for service.