Recommendations for a "less expensive" strobe

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Oh Geez.. F3 makes trolls look like saints!

If everything worked on F3's basis of ecconomics we would all be better off! Would be interesting to actually pay the price for what something actually costs in parts. Never mind the cost to manufacture, research and develop the molds and parts, etc.

"Let me make this simple" for you F3 because I know you are dense as a brick:

Digital cameras are built and manufactured for many thousands and even millions of customers wolrd wide. Therefore the return on investment for building the camera is easier to recoup. Why do you think the Nikonos cameras were so expensive? It sure wasn't for the parts! It was because the audience was so small that they had to charge that much to recoup their development costs. The same can be said for strobes and MANY other specialized products on the market.

Now, we may all be too stupid to live in the F3 world of ecconomics, or maybe its the other way around. In any case, if you have options. SAY SO, otherwise do everyone a favor and quit spewing crap that is meaningless without substance. All it does it screw up a perfectly good thread and confuses the issue at hand.
 
f3nikon:

I hope these aren't what you are referring to as strobes? :confused: :rofl3:

With specs like this, I would rather shoot natural light! Geez.. 60 degree angle, 7 second recycle, 120 flashes, give me a break!! :rofl3:

I think you made a great case why CHEAP strobes are not really options to be considered.

Key Features

• Slave will fire flash when camera flash fires.

• 60 Degree angle of coverage

• Recycle time of 7 seconds (Full power)

• Up to 120 flashes with full power batteries

• 5700 Degree kelvin color temperature
 
I am not going to get in the middle of this war, but I would like to offer Fantasea's Nano Strobe as inexpensive strobe. I offer a strobe/sync cord/tray/arm package with it for $174 that has been selling quite well. Customers seem to be quite pleased with it.

It has 3 manual settings and a GN of 12. The housing is rated to 40 meters and includes diffusers. It seems to work quite well for small digicams for macro or fish portraits. Works with preflash and non-preflash cameras. It can be used outside of it's housing on land as well.

I agree with most of the posts about buying more strobe than you need, etc. I have two Inon's personally. But for some people spending $500-$750 for a strobe alone, plus arms and a tray is more than they want to get into. It really doesn't always make sense for a $200 camera.

You may now return to your regularly scheduled flame wars. :)

Jack
 
rjsimp:
Oh Geez.. F3 makes trolls look like saints!

If everything worked on F3's basis of ecconomics we would all be better off! Would be interesting to actually pay the price for what something actually costs in parts. Never mind the cost to manufacture, research and develop the molds and parts, etc.

"Let me make this simple" for you F3 because I know you are dense as a brick:

Digital cameras are built and manufactured for many thousands and even millions of customers wolrd wide. Therefore the return on investment for building the camera is easier to recoup. Why do you think the Nikonos cameras were so expensive? It sure wasn't for the parts! It was because the audience was so small that they had to charge that much to recoup their development costs. The same can be said for strobes and MANY other specialized products on the market.

Now, we may all be too stupid to live in the F3 world of ecconomics, or maybe its the other way around. In any case, if you have options. SAY SO, otherwise do everyone a favor and quit spewing crap that is meaningless without substance. All it does it screw up a perfectly good thread and confuses the issue at hand.

I take you are still a bit sore...is this the thanks I get for enlightening you on the fact that the only way for a Nikon DSLR will work in iTTL mode is with a Nikon SB-800 flash??? Because none of the U/W strobes are setup to fire a pre-flash and cannot control their output power via the Nikon DSLRs instructions. :rofl3:

“Cost to manufacture, research and develop the molds and parts”

As I said on my past posts, there is about $20 worth of parts in even the more expensive strobes. Some of the molds (housings) did not change for 20 years! Ya think they would have recouped their investment by now???

“Why do you think the Nikonos cameras were so expensive? It sure wasn't for the parts! It was because the audience was so small that they had to charge that much to recoup their development costs. The same can be said for strobes and MANY other specialized products on the market.”

Checkmate… this is why your bankrupt arguments always turn out to be a total FLOP! The Nikonos V body sells for $350… LESS than any of your U/W strobes that you Shamelessly try to peddle!

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...ls&Q=&sku=93390&is=USA&addedTroughType=search

Even with a 35mm lens, the Nikonos camera will still cost LESS! And what makes your argument even more BANKRUPT is that the Nikonos camera is much more COMPLEX to build than even your most EXPENSIVE strobe!

The Nikonos has an electro mechanical shutter, true TTL flash control, built in exposure meter, mechanical film advance, thin film cabling and more parts… all in a magnesium case. All your strobes have to do is to discharge the capacitor’s stored voltage to a flashead and turn off the power when the camera tells it so!

Shame, Shame, Shame…Gomer
 
JackConnick:
I am not going to get in the middle of this war, but I would like to offer Fantasea's Nano Strobe as inexpensive strobe. I offer a strobe/sync cord/tray/arm package with it for $174 that has been selling quite well. Customers seem to be quite pleased with it.

It has 3 manual settings and a GN of 12. The housing is rated to 40 meters and includes diffusers. It seems to work quite well for small digicams for macro or fish portraits. Works with preflash and non-preflash cameras. It can be used outside of it's housing on land as well.

I agree with most of the posts about buying more strobe than you need, etc. I have two Inon's personally. But for some people spending $500-$750 for a strobe alone, plus arms and a tray is more than they want to get into. It really doesn't always make sense for a $200 camera.

You may now return to your regularly scheduled flame wars. :)

Jack

The Nano sounds like a cost effective way to an external strobe, since most of U/W shooting is two feet or less anyway.
 
f3nikon:
Its all about what the market will bear and the consumer's lack of information of these products, until just recently many here had the misconception that the U/W non-Nikon strobes will fire a pre-flash to make the iTTL work.

And yes there are cheaper strobes that work very well, that is why the popular strobe makers want them out of business.

I was not aware that someone came along and stated that Ikelite does NOT use a preflash. I for one do not know. I do know that Ikelite states this on their website about iTTL.

IKELITE:
Conversion circuitry in the housing allows the latest Ikelite DS SubStrobes to provide real iTTL flash control as dictated by the Nikon camera, providing standard iTTL for matrix, center-weighted and spot metering. All of these settings work well. The circuitry is powered by the SubStrobe which must be attached with a single #4103.51 or #4103.52 dual sync cord. These cords are identifiable by their blue band.

So either Ikelite supports "real iTTL", or they are lying about what they support which I highly doubt.

There are a few cheap strobe alternatives. Sunpak, Sealife, I think most have been discussed.

Do those work as well as say the more expensive Ikelites or Inon's. IMO no. Slow recycle, narrow coverage, little support using various arms systems, and many other factors make them less desirable, but they are less expensive.

What the market will bare seems to be a LOT more than what you believe it should which says little about your understanding of economics. Do I like paying $1200 for a hunk of Plexiglas to house my D200? No. The housing costs $400 less than the camera which has more technology built into it than the Original Lunar Rocket. Do I understand WHY that hunk of plastic costs $1200, and my D200 costs only a few hundred more.. Yes, and it's not because Ike is the Bill Gates of the UW photo world.

I doubt Ikelite, or Inon, or anyone else gives a fig about less expensive strobe manufactures as long as they stick with low end digital alternatives. If Sunpak starts making a DS125 style strobe, I'm betting it will cost as much or close to the DS125. On thing about most of those low end digital alternatives is that they are NOT going to work with any camera that can not fire in internal strobe in a housing, like EVERY DLSR out there that I'm aware of.

So what I think others have been suggesting is that spending a few more bucks now, may save $$ in the long run. A DS51 will work with ANY camera. Many less expensive strobes have no way to attach to a hotshoe, they are slave only, and some will only do an optical slave that will need to be attached directly in front of the primary flash.

Service is another factor. Flood a Sunpak, and call B&H because you will NEVER see that flash work again without spending more in service then it's worth. Flood an Ikelite, and you have a reasonable chance of getting repaired, and maybe even at no charge. Ike's service is rather outstanding.
 
A McDonalds hamburger is way overpriced. Afterall how much is a small piece of meat and a bun? At 99 cents they are a total rip off!

How dare Jack in the box charge me 2.99 for their burger! Afterall it's just a little more lettuce, a slice of tomato, and some of their sauce compared to the Mcdonalds 99 cents burger. THOSE DAMN CAPITALISTS!

Don't even get me started about a restaurant hamburger. You want 9.99 just because the meat is a bit thicker, there is maybe another 30 cents worth of lettuce and tomatos, and maybe another 50 cents worth of potatos cut into fries? THE HORROR!
 
RonFrank:
I was not aware that someone came along and stated that Ikelite does NOT use a preflash. I for one do not know. I do know that Ikelite states this on their website about iTTL.



So either Ikelite supports "real iTTL", or they are lying about what they support which I highly doubt.

There are a few cheap strobe alternatives. Sunpak, Sealife, I think most have been discussed.

Do those work as well as say the more expensive Ikelites or Inon's. IMO no. Slow recycle, narrow coverage, little support using various arms systems, and many other factors make them less desirable, but they are less expensive.

What the market will bare seems to be a LOT more than what you believe it should which says little about your understanding of economics. Do I like paying $1200 for a hunk of Plexiglas to house my D200? No. The housing costs $400 less than the camera which has more technology built into it than the Original Lunar Rocket. Do I understand WHY that hunk of plastic costs $1200, and my D200 costs only a few hundred more.. Yes, and it's not because Ike is the Bill Gates of the UW photo world.

I doubt Ikelite, or Inon, or anyone else gives a fig about less expensive strobe manufactures as long as they stick with low end digital alternatives. If Sunpak starts making a DS125 style strobe, I'm betting it will cost as much or close to the DS125. On thing about most of those low end digital alternatives is that they are NOT going to work with any camera that can not fire in internal strobe in a housing, like EVERY DLSR out there that I'm aware of.

So what I think others have been suggesting is that spending a few more bucks now, may save $$ in the long run. A DS51 will work with ANY camera. Many less expensive strobes have no way to attach to a hotshoe, they are slave only, and some will only do an optical slave that will need to be attached directly in front of the primary flash.

Service is another factor. Flood a Sunpak, and call B&H because you will NEVER see that flash work again without spending more in service then it's worth. Flood an Ikelite, and you have a reasonable chance of getting repaired, and maybe even at no charge. Ike's service is rather outstanding.

http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=162193&page=9

With respect to Alcina's suggestions I cleaned this up the other thread is locked up:

measures the amount of light coming through the lense”

The KEY question is HOW does the camera measure the amount of light?

With the TTL system of Film cameras the light is measured by a photo sensor that is pointed at the Film itself. This is the most accurate way of measuring the light striking the Film and REFLECTED to a SENSOR because the camera is receiving the light intensity data from the actual Film itself, REAL-TIME FEEDBACK. This is what the posters are putting down as “old technology” of the Film age because of comments like this:

“I guess inovation and improvement in technology is not worth the engineer's time if they choose not to implement it the same way as the old technology?”

Fast forward to the Digital age…Nikon, Canon and the rest of camera makers would LOVE to have used the TTL system (old technology) from their Film Cameras. The system works very well, simple design and is somewhat predictable. The only problem is the recording media, a CCD sensor in digital cameras (was film in film cameras) does NOT REFLECT the light hitting its surface the same way as it did for film! This is the “brickwall” I spoke about.

So it’s on to plan “B”, since they cannot measure the light hitting the recording media in REALTIME, another way but not as accurate, is to place the photo sensor in the viewfinder area. Not as accurate as the TTL sensor pointing at the recording media as with film because this "new high tech system" does not provide real-time measurements and the circuitry much more complicated, Nikon calls this iTTL.

Complicated… because now the system has to fire a PREFLASH to determine the amount of flash power to use, before firing a PRESET main flash power level!

With the sensor in the viewfinder a PREFLASH FROM the STROBE is fired at the subject, the light reflected off the subject makes its way back to the camera, Through The Lens of the camera, hitting the reflex mirror which is then bounced up towards the viewfinder where the light sensor is located waiting to sense the light intensity data.

The light intensity data is then feed into the camera’s electronics where it is processed and sends out a MAIN FLASH level command to a MATCHED…. NIKON DESIGN…Nikon SB-800 Flash head! This is why the Nikon DSLR and the Nikon SB-800 flash works well together.

We ASSUME that Nikon or Canon gave the details on the workings of their “proprietary” iTTL circuitry and software to the Aftermarket U/W strobe makers or even if they had access to the design, decide not to use it, because of this statement:

“If you think that Ike iTTL is somehow magic, I'd love to hear that explaination. I'm not sure if it uses preflash or not, but my guess, yes. Why would it not?”

I am in the camp of Nikon and Canon keeping their proprietary iTTL systems design, a secret from each other and everyone else, which now leaves the Aftermarket U/W strobe makers holding the BAG! Because without the design plans the strobe makers will have a difficult time in figuring out how much and how long a PREFLASH to fire and also have to redesign their strobes to communicate with Nikon or Canon’s power commands to the strobes. This could also leave the door wide open for Nikon or Canon to manufacture their line of U/W iTTL strobes in the future, like the Nikonos line (103 or 105) from Nikon.

Or the Aftermarket U/W strobe makers decide NOT to use the Nikon or Canon iTTL systems altogether because it is just too complicated a design and produce a “work around” or “band-aid” design. And that design is to BY-PASS the photo sensor located inside the camera and install their own remote external sensor in their “TTL controller or converter” which has to be purchased separately.

So now the task of the STROBE firing a PRE-FLASH is taken out of the picture completely! The AM U/W strobe makers are free use to their NON PRE-FLASH firing… NON-NIKON SB-800 strobe!

One little “minor” problem with NOT using the TTL or iTTL sensor INSIDE the camera and placing their own sensor OUTSIDE the camera’s lens is that the system is now:

NOT iThrough The Lens or Through The Lens!

Their system should be called Through The External Controller! I’ll explain the differences on my next post.

Their system is in fact an “Automatic” flash exposure system like my $50 Vivitar 285HV land strobe!

A very interesting write up from one of the AM U/W strobe makers:

“This Sea & Sea TTL Converter allows TTL exposure control when connected to Sea & Sea housings for Nikon digital SLR cameras with Sea & Sea YS strobes. The converter allows quick switching underwater between TTL mode and manual mode from outside the camera.

You can use the TTL correction dial after checking the results of a shot in the LCD monitor to adjust the amount of strobe light for the next shot. Because the converter comes with two separate strobe connectors, you can use advanced automatic TTL flash adjustment with two strobes. “

Does not say anything about firing a PRE-FLASH for iTTL but it uses the term “TTL” rather loosely! A Jr. lawyer can do a number on that one in court. And this statement:

“You can use the TTL correction dial after checking the results of a shot in the LCD monitor to adjust the amount of strobe light for the next shot.”

Checking the LCD monitor???? Isn’t this like shooting in MANUAL?????

So are you sure you are using iTTL or any type of TTL???


Addition: Call Ikelite yourself and ask them if any of their strobes are capable of firing a preflash. Note that in order for the iTTL to work the strobe itself has to OUTPUT or fire a series of preflashes, do not get this mixed up with a strobe being capable of syncing or triggering from a camera's internal flash...preflash.
 
OK, this thread is so convoluted and at times just plain embarassing that I would ask anyone who has a real question to please start a new thread instead of continuing to post to this one. It will make it easier to find the answer to the new question now and in the future. It will also, hopefully, encourage more people to provide thoughtful, non-personal, answers as this multipage monster is a bit intimidating!

Thanks for your cooperation :)
 
Buy a Sunpak. IF it floods (mine hasn't yet) buy a new one and you've still spent less than you would bought an Ikelite or other "premium" strobe.

Edit: The few photos I have in my gallery are w/o the strobe.
 
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https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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