Recommend a strobe set for compact camera

[dhaas]

The INON web site says 110 degrees with diffuser for Inon S2000: INON S-2000 Strobe [Overview]

D200 says 110 degree without a diffuser: INON D-200 Strobe [Overview]

So yes, adding a diffuser to the small Inon S2000 you lose .5 stop to have the same coverage.

D200 has two flash tunes in "T" configuration, a "target" light and rotating shade, physically bigger buttons, phosphorescent back. Just no more power rating versus S2000.

I actually bought one INON Z330 and it was powerful (Guide Number 33) but it was just too big for my liking.

Different choices for folks which is fine.

DH

 

[jf3193]

And when you're ready to upgrade, you just add a 2nd one! That's my current setup with a TG-4, tray, & 2 S2000's!

would you recommend the TG4 setup? I’ve read it doesn’t have full manual. Do you find yourself wishing you had it ( in the market is why I’m asking)

 

[Chris Ross]

Thanks, I'm also a fanatic about reducing weight and size for travel and that's why I'm considering the S2000s. But I don't think they will produce enough light, even given your shots.

And @hilljo88 thanks, but for travel size/weight reasons, I don't intend to move up to a DSLR etc. For me, that's just too much. I had the a6400 with lenses, both wet and dry, and that was too much hassle for me.

Thanks all. May try to borrow or rent a pair of S2000s to try out IF WE CAN EVER GET BACK IN THE WATER!!!

If you are using a compact like the RX-100 you do not need to stop down for your wide angle shots, f5.6 has more than enough depth of field, it's equivalent depth of field to a full frame at f16 on the same scene. With an APS-C you would probably be using f11. That's 2 stops of flash power difference which is more than difference in power output between the S-2000 and the YS-D2's. The YS-D2 with diffuser is GN 24 and the S-2000 with diffuser is GN 17. That is very close to 1 stop difference in power. Even allowing for marketing guide numbers you will be able to make up the difference shooting wider open on the compact.

 

[ReadyDiverOne]

If you are using a compact like the RX-100 you do not need to stop down for your wide angle shots, f5.6 has more than enough depth of field, it's equivalent depth of field to a full frame at f16 on the same scene. With an APS-C you would probably be using f11. That's 2 stops of flash power difference which is more than difference in power output between the S-2000 and the YS-D2's. The YS-D2 with diffuser is GN 24 and the S-2000 with diffuser is GN 17. That is very close to 1 stop difference in power. Even allowing for marketing guide numbers you will be able to make up the difference shooting wider open on the compact.

Thanks. this is a really insightful and helpful analysis, I had not looked at it this way at all. I usually shoot the RX100 at f.6.3 or higher (grouper above shot at f6.3) so, hmmm.

Does the 100 degree diffuser reduce the GN that much though, all the way down to GN 24 from 32?

Also, what is your take on the fact that others, far more experienced than I and having a motive to sell me the S2000s, have indicated that there is still a significant real-life drop-off in power/light?

Thanks.

 

[Barmaglot]

Does the 100 degree diffuser reduce the GN that much though, all the way down to GN 24 from 32?

Think of it this way - with an 80 degree beam, at 50cm distance, you're covering an 83cm circle. With a 100 degree beam, at the same range, you're covering a 120cm circle. The area of the former is some 5400cm2, while the area of the latter is some 11300cm2, so you're using less light (the diffuser absorbs some) to light an area that is twice as big.

 

[FezUSA]

would you recommend the TG4 setup? I’ve read it doesn’t have full manual. Do you find yourself wishing you had it ( in the market is why I’m asking)

I started digital photography with a Canon Powershot G3 so that I could learn photography. It had auto all the way through full manual. I have since had or own an Olympus E-500, Olympus XZ-1, and and Olympus E-5. I've got basic glass and mid-range glass for the SLR's. I can shoot manual, but I prefer to shoot in shutter or aperture priority depending on the situation. I've used the TG-4 since it was launched. My daughter, a Cleveland Institute of Art student, wants it for her UW photography. She has used all of my other digital cameras and we've also done some Canon film camera shoots.

All that to say, it depends! As I consider giving her my TG-4 and the single strobe package I started with, what do I replace it with? It will be a compact for sure. The TG-6 is certainly a viable option, and if I look at the pictures on Backscatter (Jim Decker etc.) and what other people are getting with their TG-6, then I know it what is behind the camera not the camera itself that may be lacking. That said, I've taken some sessions with a photographer who thinks I will be much better served with a G7 and the bigger sensor, and shooting with more control over the image capture process. If I consider that, then I also have to consider the Panasonic LX10 and LX100 and the Sony RX100 models. I have thought about an Olympus mirrorless too, as my eldest son shoots with one.

I like the fact that the TG-6 is waterproof, even if the housing fails. That has saved my TG-4 once already, and it was only the 2nd day of diving on our trip to Bali. My mistake in not taking enough care to check the seal on the housing. If I had made that mistake with the other cameras though, I would have been without a camera the rest of the trip. And missed a lot of pictures!

I have found a few instances where I wish I had more control, but I've also really enjoyed the relaxed approach to my diving photography that the TG-4 lends itself to. I'm not diving for photography purposes, and with about 100 dives in my log I'm still a beginner diver in my mind. The TG-4 means I'm still more focused on my diving than my photography. The camera allows me to document my dives and adds another level to it. I enjoy it, and will have a hard time deciding between the TG-6 and the Canon G7/ Panasonic LX models. Knowing that the latter can still shoot auto, but provide me with more options too.

You have to ask yourself which camera fits your style of diving and shooting. If you make a mistake and flood your housing, how will you react? However if that's not an issue for you, I would lean toward the others. The TG-6 will provide you with good pictures that are great for social media and 5x7's, even pushing up to 8x10's. You will enjoy the simplicity of getting those pictures if you are a casual shooter. However if you think you will be diving with a focus on taking pictures, and will take 5+ minutes to get the the picture you want of a specific subject. Then one of the other options may serve you better. I'm diving with a wife who uses nothing or a GoPro, and the rest of the group usually have nothing. The dives are NOT set up for me to take 5-10 minutes setting up lighting, snoots, positioning etc. We see something cool, I take my turn, usually trying to be last, and get 2-5 pictures and move on, catching up with the group.

Hope this helps. Feel free to reach out if need be

 

[Chris Ross]

Thanks. this is a really insightful and helpful analysis, I had not looked at it this way at all. I usually shoot the RX100 at f.6.3 or higher (grouper above shot at f6.3) so, hmmm.

Does the 100 degree diffuser reduce the GN that much though, all the way down to GN 24 from 32?

Also, what is your take on the fact that others, far more experienced than I and having a motive to sell me the S2000s, have indicated that there is still a significant real-life drop-off in power/light?

Thanks.

F32 to f24 is a little under 1 stop or about half the light - which ties in with Barmagalot's analysis of twice the area to illuminate.... and going to f17 is two stops from f32. But with an 80° beam You'll be using the 100° diffuser all the time for wide angle work anyway - so the f32 is just marketing. The S-2000 in GN20 with a 105 x 95° beam and is probably enough to use bare if you had the need for another 1/2 stop. The exact difference between f17 and f24 is 0.95 stops.

Shooting full frame you are at f11-16 which is two stops+ away from f5.6 - but you've only lost one stop between the YS-D2 and the S-2000. Many people will use f5 on the RX100 - but experiment to see - f6.3 is only 1/3 stop more than f5.6. See what your corners are like - with the flat port your corners at the widest zoom setting will be a little soft from the flat port and stopping down won't help much, If you use wet lenses the requirements for good corners may be different but I don't expect you'd need to stop down to f8 and above.

The numbers show you need flash power due to the wider apertures - there's seems to be a disconnect because people don't take into account the fact that the depth of field is higher on smaller sensors and I still see crazy recommendations posted like stopping down to f22 for m43 macro shooting where the image will be mushy from diffraction. I shoot my Olympus at f8-10 for macro and the results are fine. for the same image framing on full frame you need f16-20 to get the same depth of field.

 

[jf3193]

Ditto on INON strobes.

I've shot a pair of Inon S2000 units for 4 years and also a single INON Z330 if you want more power and maybe only one flash to deal with.

They'll last you many many set ups. The small S2000 units are a breeze to travel with also.

Search my posts for sample pics using a pair of INON S2000 units and my Canon G7X II compact in a Fantasea housing (full disclosure I'm a Fantasea dealer and ACTUAL user.)

David Haas
Haas Photography Inc.
davidhaas4596@gmail.com

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Great info DHAAS.
Do you use a focus light, or just the dual INONs

 

[deeper thoughts]

Very informative thread