Razor Sidemount Helmet and torch system, feedback wanted, thx

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I’m not familiar with this technique- if I want the light pointed down I clip it off using a small bungee loop attached to where the cord meets the light head.

with a can light, you can just wrap it around the back of your neck, exactly like the long hose. Used for short term hand activity
 
I’m not familiar with this technique- if I want the light pointed down I clip it off using a small bungee loop attached to where the cord meets the light head.

Using the small bungee loop and a double ender is the better technique now. Prior to the bungee loops, that is what was done. Both are better than sticking it on a helmet and blinding teammates.
 
Using the small bungee loop and a double ender is the better technique now. Prior to the bungee loops, that is what was done. Both are better than sticking it on a helmet and blinding teammates.

I used the bungee loop too, but I wouldn't say it's 'better'. I would say it's different. The light hangs in a different place and it's not as quick. I would also say that the helmet-sticking has it's place as well, particularly if you can point the light down as with the razor mount.

I just think that being dogmatic about the details of light management is counter productive. I'm not accusing you of that, but I would caution anyone from saying his way is 'better' when it comes to small details about how to solve problems.
 
Using the small bungee loop and a double ender is the better technique now.

Could you expand on this? I'm using a bolt snap tied to my cordless primary, no bungee or double ender but interested in understanding it.
 
IMG_20210414_092536.jpg

Clip at back and light points/hangs downward. Clip at front and light points forwards (assuming you're in trim) at least that's the theory. In practise the tail of my light is heavy so it actually points upwards towards my face but with a corded light that wouldn't be a problem.
 
When I had my HID, with a sizable light head, I mounted the snapbolt towards the front so I could clip the light to a chest D ring and shove the cord under my waist belt to sort of point it forward. It worked ok for reel work, but sometimes the cord would slip a little, the light would move, and it took a few extra seconds to get the light in place. and I never liked the feel of hard goodman handles. I imagine they are better with gloves on.

Now I have a much smaller LED head, and the razor mount solves a lot of problems because it can instantly go on the helmet, pointed where I want it, or on the razor handmount, which I find to be much more comfortable than a goodman. The only problem with it is the price.

A nice thing about the newer light heads is that they quickly adjust down in brightness so you don't have to blind your team mate or yourself when pointing them at a slate, for example. Now if they only had a small light head just as bright with a long burn time and no cord or canister, we'd have the perfect light.
 
Could you expand on this? I'm using a bolt snap tied to my cordless primary, no bungee or double ender but interested in understanding it.

Small snap on the right side of the Goodman handle as normal. Small loop of bungee attached at the end of the battery pack. Don’t leave the double ender on it. It adds weight and just gets in the way. Clip it on when needed.
 
with a can light, you can just wrap it around the back of your neck, exactly like the long hose. Used for short term hand activity

This is a bad habit, it can lead to hose entanglement in the event of the one true emergency. Go with clipping the head off on the upper right chest d-ring instead.
 
View attachment 653357
Clip at back and light points/hangs downward. Clip at front and light points forwards (assuming you're in trim) at least that's the theory. In practise the tail of my light is heavy so it actually points upwards towards my face but with a corded light that wouldn't be a problem.
The bungie loop is both larger than usual and not tight. Smaller diameter bungie, in a smaller loop, with the fisherman's knot pulled tight then closed with a few drops of superglue is nicer IMHO. You can also use an old tank neck oring seized to the back with cave line. 3/4" or 20-25mm is about the right loop diameter.

Take off the double ender when the light is on your hand. It will snag on the line when you least need it to.
 
The bungie loop is both larger than usual and not tight. Smaller diameter bungie, in a smaller loop, with the fisherman's knot pulled tight then closed with a few drops of superglue is nicer IMHO. You can also use an old tank neck oring seized to the back with cave line. 3/4" or 20-25mm is about the right loop diameter.

Take off the double ender when the light is on your hand. It will snag on the line when you least need it to.

Thanks for the tips. I'll test them out soon
 
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