Raja Ampat Resort / Land Based Dive Options / Recommendations

[John Trecker]

It has been some time since there has been a thread on recommendations and input for Raja Ampat / R4 resort and land based dive options.
Am planning a trip in Dec / Jan for 2 weeks and have been a bit surprised at how limited the options are.
Many places are booked up for large parts of the year (Misool Resort is completely full for all of 2022 with prior rebookings).
Any recommendations, suggestions, hints, concerns, or other input appreciated! Please feel free to add in other input. Thank you everyone!

1. Location / Dive Site Access: Are diverse sites close / far? Long boat rides? House reef?
2. Dive Ops / Team: Safety / boats? Especially any recs for good guides / spotters.
3. Dive Equipment : Considerations on Nitrox / tank size / type, etc. Concerns with quality?
4. Accommodation / Food: Basic / Luxury / Value? Aircon? Food quality / variability. Recs on room type / location?
5. Wifi / Mobile Access Experience: Especially in these days of remote work.
6. Overall Impressions / Recs: Would you go back? Good value? Cater to serious divers? Anything you would do differently?

PS: Of course any input is in the context of Covid 19 pandemic and related impacts which we all know obviously has affected and will continue to affect ops, but his is not intended to be a posting to discuss Covid 19 (such as entry requirements) which has been covered in depth elsewhere.

 

[JohnN]

Where to?

Palau Explorers

 

[Dan]

Palau Explorers

Have fun! Let us know how the trip goes!

 

[TomZ]

Does anyone have experience with Soul Scuba, and Yenbuba homestay? Looking at early December. TIA.

 

[Juli124]

I've dived this region a few times and have done it a couple times by liveaboard. All-in, I have 18 days on a liveaboard and 14 days land based in Raja Ampat so I feel like it is representative enough to offer some insight.

1. Location of dive sites and access will depend on which resort you're staying at. I did land based out of Papua Explorers so many dive sites were within 15-20 minutes. There were a few that were 30 minutes, and then some day trip options out to Fam Islands (hi, Melissa's Garden and Batu Rufus....swoon!!!!) that are 1 hour away. They have a house reef which I hit up every night for night diving. It is quite good. Pontohi pygmy seahorses, squids, cuttlefish, octopus, pygmy squids, nudibranch, blue ring octopus, crabs, shrimp. One thing to note is that some dive resorts don't dive on Saturdays for religious reasons. Pick and check accordingly.
2. Papua Explorers is where I stayed at. Good safety and decent boats. Oxygen on board. The boats are smaller but work well - enough room for you to sit and relax, have your gear nearby, storage under the seat...but bring a dry bag because the only dry storage is at the bow of the boat and when it's underway, you have to ask the crew to grab it for you. They provide dry towels. You go out for 2 dives in the morning and for the SI you go to an amazing sand bar or pristine tropical beach with white sand to have your coffee, tea, snacks. You return for lunch then go out again in the afternoon for 1 dive. Then snacks/tea/coffee and the night dive on the house reef if you want. We had Apri and he was great at spotting. I think guides that have worked in Lembeh or Ambon are generally better spotters especially for night diving and macro.
3. 12L nitrox standard and is free if you're certified to use it. 15L nitrox available at surcharge. Tanks in great condition. They analyze air and you watch before leaving the dock. They also check to ensure everything functions before leaving and will change out o-rings if it's even hissing the slightest. There's no "it will be fine" attitude here, which I love. Dives are set for 60 minutes though I've squeezed 70 minutes here and there.
4. Food was good. There was a good balance of vegetarian, seafood, meats...fish, chicken, beef. Pasta and rice option every night. Soup every night. Salad at every meal. It's served buffet style but they serve you and you're not allowed to touch anything. No air con - and hear me out - I always get aircon everywhere I go and it used to be a dealbreaker especially because I'm extremely attractive to and allergic to mosquitos. There were minimal mosquitos here which was surprising and you get used to the heat. Being over the water, there's more of a breeze and you can sleep with your doors open (the room is not sealed as it is, it's a Papuan style overwater bungalow). Room has mosquito netting which they put away and draw for you each evening. They provide a bedside fan if you want to use it. However, it was a really nice room and well appointed. I'd say it's not middle of the road..not basic or luxury. We did have a few people hop over on a chartered boat from other homestays after arriving for 1 night or less than 1 night and trying to frantically get out and into the resort but they were full. If you decide on a homestay, do your research accordingly because not all are the same...and those are basic to very basic options from the room, to food, to the bathroom situation (shared), to dive ops (sometimes not even on site). It really varies.
   
   We loved the veranda and the swim platform, hammock, chaise lounges. Very large rooms and bathrooms. Do note that it's an eco-resort. Toilet flushes into septic. Shower and sink water goes straight below the bungalow into the water so they ask if you do not have known reef-safe toiletries with you to only use what they provide. They are local toiletries made in Bali. They have 2 smaller bungalows and 12 standard size ones and 1 large family villa. The higher numbered bungalows are a longer walk to/from the restaurant and pier. Unfortunately you don't get to pick...but the ones that are farther have the new swim platforms which they started to install as a pandemic project. The ones closer don't have it yet but they are working on it.
5. OK wifi here. Sometimes the signal might drop so if you are VPNing, you might cut out but overall you can send and receive emails, including work emails without issue. The restauraunt wifi pulls data from the cell tower in Mansuar across the strait. The dive center/dock wifi pulls from them and Arborek, another nearby tower so that one is more reliable. No wifi in rooms. No phones, TVs, etc. Eco resort. If you get a local Indonesian SIM (Telkomsel would be suggested) you will have pretty good cell reception for tethering in this general area including near some dive sites. I used my ATT International Pass (awesome deal if you are there for an extended time) and I did not have reception in this area using my ATT SIM even though they sometimes use Telkomsel in other areas of Indonesia for my roaming.
6. I will 100% go back and will probably do so again later this year. They cater to serious divers and also families that are there for snorkeling trips. If you do a full day trip they usually say you only get 3 dives in per day (including the night dive) but the team knew that I and a few others were keen on 4 dives a day so if we got back early enough, they would have the tanks ready to roll out. They try as hard as they can to pair experience levels together and multiple boats will go out each day for different groups. Sometimes, multiple groups end up on 1 dive boat with 2 separate guides. I had issues with other divers in my boat and group towards the end (I have really good air consumption) so they would juggle this by handing off divers to each other so that it would not affect my experience and dive time. They were also very open to suggestions on where you wanted to go or what you preferred and will ask you the day before. They will make suggestions based on conditions and weather. I loved that. You get a lot of flexibility being land based instead of being on a set itinerary.

Spectacular wildlife sounds all day but especially in the morning with the birds of paradise. Bring earplugs if you're a sensitive sleeper because hard rain also hits at night or there is sometimes a crow or 2 in the morning on top of your roof. I'm sure there's something else I'll think of but let me know if you have any other questions. I was supposed to go on a liveaboard back to this area in March 2020 but we all know how that went. I plan on returning to Papua Explorers later this year and then our liveaboard was rescheduled a 3rd time for April 2023. I was also able to do an unplanned tour of their liveaboard, the Coralia and one of my dive buddies from Papua Explorers went on it after he left Papua Explorers. He says it's a great boat and op. It's beautiful.

Try to arrange your check in/out dates on Wed and Sundays which is when they do their free transfer dates. It's a lot easier and/or cheaper than the ferry to/from Wasai and the private option which is yikes expensive.


I'm on it! Thanks for the tag.

So helpful thanks so much! We'll be going in July!
We originally planned to do to Cove Eco resort for the second week but they changed their transfer days so we switched to Papua Explorers.

 

[beccaaa]

I've dived this region a few times and have done it a couple times by liveaboard. All-in, I have 18 days on a liveaboard and 14 days land based in Raja Ampat so I feel like it is representative enough to offer some insight.

1. Location of dive sites and access will depend on which resort you're staying at. I did land based out of Papua Explorers so many dive sites were within 15-20 minutes. There were a few that were 30 minutes, and then some day trip options out to Fam Islands (hi, Melissa's Garden and Batu Rufus....swoon!!!!) that are 1 hour away. They have a house reef which I hit up every night for night diving. It is quite good. Pontohi pygmy seahorses, squids, cuttlefish, octopus, pygmy squids, nudibranch, blue ring octopus, crabs, shrimp. One thing to note is that some dive resorts don't dive on Saturdays for religious reasons. Pick and check accordingly.
2. Papua Explorers is where I stayed at. Good safety and decent boats. Oxygen on board. The boats are smaller but work well - enough room for you to sit and relax, have your gear nearby, storage under the seat...but bring a dry bag because the only dry storage is at the bow of the boat and when it's underway, you have to ask the crew to grab it for you. They provide dry towels. You go out for 2 dives in the morning and for the SI you go to an amazing sand bar or pristine tropical beach with white sand to have your coffee, tea, snacks. You return for lunch then go out again in the afternoon for 1 dive. Then snacks/tea/coffee and the night dive on the house reef if you want. We had Apri and he was great at spotting. I think guides that have worked in Lembeh or Ambon are generally better spotters especially for night diving and macro.
3. 12L nitrox standard and is free if you're certified to use it. 15L nitrox available at surcharge. Tanks in great condition. They analyze air and you watch before leaving the dock. They also check to ensure everything functions before leaving and will change out o-rings if it's even hissing the slightest. There's no "it will be fine" attitude here, which I love. Dives are set for 60 minutes though I've squeezed 70 minutes here and there.
4. Food was good. There was a good balance of vegetarian, seafood, meats...fish, chicken, beef. Pasta and rice option every night. Soup every night. Salad at every meal. It's served buffet style but they serve you and you're not allowed to touch anything. No air con - and hear me out - I always get aircon everywhere I go and it used to be a dealbreaker especially because I'm extremely attractive to and allergic to mosquitos. There were minimal mosquitos here which was surprising and you get used to the heat. Being over the water, there's more of a breeze and you can sleep with your doors open (the room is not sealed as it is, it's a Papuan style overwater bungalow). Room has mosquito netting which they put away and draw for you each evening. They provide a bedside fan if you want to use it. However, it was a really nice room and well appointed. I'd say it's not middle of the road..not basic or luxury. We did have a few people hop over on a chartered boat from other homestays after arriving for 1 night or less than 1 night and trying to frantically get out and into the resort but they were full. If you decide on a homestay, do your research accordingly because not all are the same...and those are basic to very basic options from the room, to food, to the bathroom situation (shared), to dive ops (sometimes not even on site). It really varies.
   
   We loved the veranda and the swim platform, hammock, chaise lounges. Very large rooms and bathrooms. Do note that it's an eco-resort. Toilet flushes into septic. Shower and sink water goes straight below the bungalow into the water so they ask if you do not have known reef-safe toiletries with you to only use what they provide. They are local toiletries made in Bali. They have 2 smaller bungalows and 12 standard size ones and 1 large family villa. The higher numbered bungalows are a longer walk to/from the restaurant and pier. Unfortunately you don't get to pick...but the ones that are farther have the new swim platforms which they started to install as a pandemic project. The ones closer don't have it yet but they are working on it.
5. OK wifi here. Sometimes the signal might drop so if you are VPNing, you might cut out but overall you can send and receive emails, including work emails without issue. The restauraunt wifi pulls data from the cell tower in Mansuar across the strait. The dive center/dock wifi pulls from them and Arborek, another nearby tower so that one is more reliable. No wifi in rooms. No phones, TVs, etc. Eco resort. If you get a local Indonesian SIM (Telkomsel would be suggested) you will have pretty good cell reception for tethering in this general area including near some dive sites. I used my ATT International Pass (awesome deal if you are there for an extended time) and I did not have reception in this area using my ATT SIM even though they sometimes use Telkomsel in other areas of Indonesia for my roaming.
6. I will 100% go back and will probably do so again later this year. They cater to serious divers and also families that are there for snorkeling trips. If you do a full day trip they usually say you only get 3 dives in per day (including the night dive) but the team knew that I and a few others were keen on 4 dives a day so if we got back early enough, they would have the tanks ready to roll out. They try as hard as they can to pair experience levels together and multiple boats will go out each day for different groups. Sometimes, multiple groups end up on 1 dive boat with 2 separate guides. I had issues with other divers in my boat and group towards the end (I have really good air consumption) so they would juggle this by handing off divers to each other so that it would not affect my experience and dive time. They were also very open to suggestions on where you wanted to go or what you preferred and will ask you the day before. They will make suggestions based on conditions and weather. I loved that. You get a lot of flexibility being land based instead of being on a set itinerary.

Spectacular wildlife sounds all day but especially in the morning with the birds of paradise. Bring earplugs if you're a sensitive sleeper because hard rain also hits at night or there is sometimes a crow or 2 in the morning on top of your roof. I'm sure there's something else I'll think of but let me know if you have any other questions. I was supposed to go on a liveaboard back to this area in March 2020 but we all know how that went. I plan on returning to Papua Explorers later this year and then our liveaboard was rescheduled a 3rd time for April 2023. I was also able to do an unplanned tour of their liveaboard, the Coralia and one of my dive buddies from Papua Explorers went on it after he left Papua Explorers. He says it's a great boat and op. It's beautiful.

Try to arrange your check in/out dates on Wed and Sundays which is when they do their free transfer dates. It's a lot easier and/or cheaper than the ferry to/from Wasai and the private option which is yikes expensive.


I'm on it! Thanks for the tag.

thanks for this! Quick questions - how humid did the rooms at Papex get? I have trouble sleeping when it's humid and no aircon...

 

[Bill McDavid]

It has been some time since there has been a thread on recommendations and input for Raja Ampat / R4 resort and land based dive options.
Am planning a trip in Dec / Jan for 2 weeks and have been a bit surprised at how limited the options are.
Many places are booked up for large parts of the year (Misool Resort is completely full for all of 2022 with prior rebookings).
Any recommendations, suggestions, hints, concerns, or other input appreciated! Please feel free to add in other input. Thank you everyone!

1. Location / Dive Site Access: Are diverse sites close / far? Long boat rides? House reef?
2. Dive Ops / Team: Safety / boats? Especially any recs for good guides / spotters.
3. Dive Equipment : Considerations on Nitrox / tank size / type, etc. Concerns with quality?
4. Accommodation / Food: Basic / Luxury / Value? Aircon? Food quality / variability. Recs on room type / location?
5. Wifi / Mobile Access Experience: Especially in these days of remote work.
6. Overall Impressions / Recs: Would you go back? Good value? Cater to serious divers? Anything you would do differently?

PS: Of course any input is in the context of Covid 19 pandemic and related impacts which we all know obviously has affected and will continue to affect ops, but his is not intended to be a posting to discuss Covid 19 (such as entry requirements) which has been covered in depth elsewhere.

I have been to a few resorts in Raja Ampat and, without hesitation, I can say that Misool Eco Resort is the best. It is remote which obviously means more travel but that also means a hell of a lot less people and more pristine conditions. All of RA is awesome but there is a noticeable difference in the quality of the diving in the south (better) versus the north. Cannot wait to go back this January... first time doing Raja on a Liveaboard

 

[John Trecker]

I am putting together a spreadsheet with info that happy to share eventually including

1. Aircon availability
2. Nitrox Availability - surprisingly many do not have
3. Dive Days - many take days off for 'drying'... not fun after flying 30 hours to be stuck. Many say you can 'dive the house reef' but are curiously silent on what exactly that means and how that would work (dive by yourself with no guide I guess?)
4. Dives Per Day - Some of the more commercial resorts only have 2 dives guaranteed a day; one required 6 divers to do a night dive (good luck with that)
5. Transfer Days - this adds tons of complexity and costs and it seems to be set up as a gotcha to get you to pay more.
6. Private Guide info.

 

[Blackcrusader]

I have been to a few resorts in Raja Ampat and, without hesitation, I can say that Misool Eco Resort is the best. It is remote which obviously means more travel but that also means a hell of a lot less people and more pristine conditions. All of RA is awesome but there is a noticeable difference in the quality of the diving in the south (better) versus the north. Cannot wait to go back this January... first time doing Raja on a Liveaboard

For some of my dive buddies there is an issue of how much they can spend on a vacation so staying at the cheaper homestays is for them.
Not everyone is minted

 

[Centrals]

Stay Raja Ampat: The best Raja Ampat accommodation & travel information source

Traditional Papuan accommodation is the best value Raja Ampat accommodation available. Here's all you need to plan a visit and book your stay in paradise.

www.stayrajaampat.com

 

[Indah]

I am putting together a spreadsheet with info that happy to share eventually including

1. Aircon availability
2. Nitrox Availability - surprisingly many do not have
3. Dive Days - many take days off for 'drying'... not fun after flying 30 hours to be stuck. Many say you can 'dive the house reef' but are curiously silent on what exactly that means and how that would work (dive by yourself with no guide I guess?)
4. Dives Per Day - Some of the more commercial resorts only have 2 dives guaranteed a day; one required 6 divers to do a night dive (good luck with that)
5. Transfer Days - this adds tons of complexity and costs and it seems to be set up as a gotcha to get you to pay more.
6. Private Guide info.

I wonder if you have any idea what it takes to run a resort on the Raja Ampat islands.
1. it takes at least 1 running high capacity generators to have the rooms equipped with aircon. These machines take 250 USD per day in fuel. Fuel which is often hard to get and have to brought in by boat. The days that only 1 or 2 bungalows are occupied the costs are almost the same.
2 . Oxygen tanks are hard to get and need to be transported. This makes a continuous blending system useless. (need 1 x 40 liter oxygen tank to fill 15 dive tanks) A membrane system takes more investment, maintenance and power. And do not under estimate the risks of down currents.
4 any resort which can effort it not to be commercial? You work for free?
5 transfers in Indonesia have always been expensive and are becoming much more expensive now. Keep in mind that for example a car is much more expensive here than in the USA or Europe. Fuel seems to be cheap. But does not help if you cannot buy without paying much extra.

Many businesses went under during the pandemic. The ones who survived did this often by using all financial reserves they had, borrowing money from friends, selling parts of their property or getting another loan. ZERO support from the government. Nothing for the company and nothing for their employees. They are trying to start up again now. Dealing with all delayed maintenance and replacements. Often they have only a couple of guests at the time. And still much uncertainty what next year will bring.

All resorts would like you to dive as often as possible. Why would they want to restrict that? That is how they make a living.
Maybe you will now understand a bit better ?