Trip Report Raja Ampat, Live Report, Nov. 7-Dec. 7, 2023

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Like an intermingling swarm of ants.
Good metaphor. Indonesian traffic is like a river. It flows. Often in every direction at once. Things like traffic lanes are just paint on the road with no significance otherwise. Motorcycles don't technically lane split because they're are no lanes in driver consciousness. Terrifying to Westerners at first, but given that, with surprisingly few wrecks, and then at slow speeds. However, if you don't know how to flow, you cause havoc. The best reason not to drive yourself in Indonesia.
 
Great helpful post. Thanks for the detailed travel advice.

And you cannot apply for it earlier than 3 days prior to your arrival date.

I can't find this information on the eVOA website. Did you conclude this from trial and error or did I just miss the reference?
 
This whole thread makes me smile and remember the first time I left the US outside of the Caribbean and headed to the Solomon Islands. Thanks for sharing it.

re: Bum Guns

Pretty much my entire family and many of my friends have installed bum guns in their homes in the US and LOVE them. After 15+ years in Indonesia, I can't help but think how weird it is that most Americans believe having the tools to wash oneself with soap and water after going is gross and weird.

Multiple Choice Quiz:
If you were walking down the street and suddenly discovered poop on your arm, what would be the proper course of action?
A. Employ some water and soap to wash the affected area thoroughly.
B. Grab some thin tissue paper, smear it around as best you can, and call it a day.

If you ever take any advice from me, order an easy-install bum gun from Amazon and give it a go. I promise it will make your life so much better.
 
Great helpful post. Thanks for the detailed travel advice.

And you cannot apply for it earlier than 3 days prior to your arrival date.

I can't find this information on the eVOA website. Did you conclude this from trial and error or did I just miss the reference?
I thought I read it somewhere, but I can't remember where. Sorry. But before I did the real application, I did a test application before submitting to make sure I was doing it right. Note that approval was instant and the payment link is sent by email immediately.
 
I thought I read it somewhere, but I can't remember where. Sorry. But before I did the real application, I did a test application before submitting to make sure I was doing it right. Note that approval was instant and the payment link is sent by email immediately.

There are a lot of sites out there that mention the visa and some of them may be 3rd parties that then do it for you...this is pretty common for other countries. Visa app services that take care of everything for you. This site claims to be the official one, and is what I used. I am curious to see if my visa works when I get there LOL

this is from the FAQ on the page, it's noteworthy they like to bury information 3 clicks in...
Visitor Visa is valid for 90 days. The validity period of your Visitor Visa is different than the duration of your stay. The stay of Visitor Visa holder is 30 days from the arrival date.

I clicked apply, answered some questions about the nature of my travel...was offered the EVOA, supplied photos of self and passport, then had to pay (I did 2, one for spouse one for self) the first one went through on my CC (I would not use a bank debit card) , the 2nd was kicked back by card and I had to resubmit it, that caused some real confusion for me...my bank txt me, I said yes its me, then I had to wait to resubmit or log back in tot he evoa site and check app status to submit again. I checked my card...one charge. It's an indonesia payment clearing house, so I'm sure my CC was reasonably suspicious. Since I have no knowledge of payment card regulations for payment houses and banks in Indonesia, I don't use my debit card for things like this...if my data gets compromised (which happens here, even with regulations) all they can do is affect my debt, which I'll record as fraudulant. If they get my debit card, they can take my balance, which I can also report as fraud, but is a bit more "hand to mouth" for me. Anyways...may the odds be ever in your favor.
 
Good metaphor. Indonesian traffic is like a river. It flows. Often in every direction at once. Things like traffic lanes are just paint on the road with no significance otherwise. Motorcycles don't technically lane split because they're are no lanes in driver consciousness. Terrifying to Westerners at first, but given that, with surprisingly few wrecks, and then at slow speeds. However, if you don't know how to flow, you cause havoc. The best reason not to drive yourself in Indonesia.
This is reminiscent sounding of India big city traffic. The wife is in for a real treat. It took me a month in India to get use to it. A buddy of mine took me out to dinner on the back of his motorcycle I remember thinking "well, the company pays my medical bills on a work trip".
 
We purchased our visa on arrival and it took maybe 10 minutes. The ATM situation was mentioned in a few threads as we had the same issue and were never able to get one to work at the airport. We arrived on a Sunday night and none of the currency exchange booths were open so it was a scramble to pay for luggage fees on our domestic transfer to Sorong. They were only accepting local currency "cash" as their system was down and could not take a credit card but it was Batik Air so I think it is always down.
 
Continued Report

Arrival at Sorido Bay. Now that I’ve arrived and settled into Sorido Bay Resort, I’ll give you the lowdown. The “package” I purchased from them included the round trip transfer from Sorong to the resort, which entailed a pickup by a Papua Diving driver from my hotel in Sorong to the ferry. It’s a 2-hour, 20-minute ride to Wasai. The ferry tickets are purchased by SBR in the VIP section of the boat, which means you have a seat with A/C instead of the area with no A/C, plus your luggage is in the same area you’re seated in and not the general holding area. Once I arrived in Wasai, another Papua Diving team met me at the ferry dock, then walked me over to their speedboat for a 45-minute ride to the resort. That was about a 5-minute walk. I also happened to be sharing this transfer with two other guests staying at Kri Eco Resort.

Getting on and off the ferry was chaotic, so I’m glad I had an escort from Papua Diving. Once we arrived in Wasai, it was a free-for-all with everyone exiting and entering at the same time and luggage was flying around everywhere, so I was grateful to have my bags secured with me in visual sight. The porters were very handsy with our bags, and we told them to wait a minute. We found our Papua guy and he gave them permission to handle our bags. They work for tips, so they charged us 200,000 IDR, which is about $6 USD. It was worth every bit because the walk from the ferry boat to the speedboat is dirt, gravel, broken blocks of asphalt, and you’re sharing the road with cars, scooters and pedestrians.

Now here’s where I will caution you for the next step. While you’re standing at the boat dock, there’s a government registration office that you have to pay the marine park fee of 1,000,000 IDR unless you’re with Papua Divers, which means you pay the resort the fee, not the government office, but I wasn’t informed that I’d be approached for payment. A gentleman told the Papua guy that we had to make the payment there, so I said we don’t pay anything because the resort takes care of it. I told him I’m not paying anything. After some back-and-forth between the Indonesians, we were allowed to get on the Papua boat. Apparently, the government people know that SBR pays the fee for their guests, but they try to make you pay twice by saying you have to pay there. I stood my ground and it worked.

If you want to feel like you’re on a deserted island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, well, you’ve arrived! The property is located oceanfront amongst a dense tropical rainforest with a canopy of trees to envelope you. I received a nice welcome and a tour of the property and briefing on how it all works. Very thorough. There is new management that’s only been here three weeks, and the existing manager, Chris, is onsite helping to train the new folks. This hasn’t affected my stay; however, if you are considering coming here, there will be a formal transition in mid-December.

The Bungalow. This is a huge room with a king bed, a sofa, desk table with two chairs, a drinking water & coffee station, a large counter area for your camera and dive gear, and a very nice-sized bathroom with a walk-in shower with plenty of hot water and good shower pressure. There is no fresh water on the island, so drinking water is brought from the mainland. Since there hasn’t been enough rain, for the first five days, the water coming into the room was well water mixed with salt water. Then we got some rain, and they switched it to rainwater. What a relief that was! Nothing ever feels clean when you're bathing and rinsing gear in partial saltwater. You can see the color of the water in the photo attached. The A/C works very well, and the bed is firm but comfortable with mosquito netting.

And speaking of mosquitoes, I’ve already gone through one spray can of insect repellent. I brought plenty. It is very hot and very humid, and the mosquitoes are out in full force. There’s bats at night flying around the property eating those up, but it’s still a problem if you’re like me and are a human mosquito attractant.

I’m going to pause here and post some photos.

To be continued…
 

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ATM Disaster. I read lots of recommendations from my fellow SB members here, so I was ready to use my CharIes Schwab debit card. I called to alert them of my travels, so I wouldn’t have a fraud issue. Out of six ATMs at the airport, two of them gave me money, while the other three would not. The first one gave me 500,000 IDR but refused any further transactions. The next three machines showed “transaction pending” or “processing request” but then would show a message to check my transaction history (whatever that means) and spit my card out. Within seconds I received a text message that my account had been debited, but I HAVE NO MONEY!! Now I’m panicked and pissed, but I still needed more money, so my pickup driver took me to another machine in the airport where I was able to get the money with no other issues. All in all, I had 12 transactions with the ATMs, which did flag a fraud alert with multiple text messages from my bank.

I’ve been diving in Indonesia almost every year for over 18 years. The best way to get cash in Rupiah is by bringing new $100 bills and exchange them at the local bank booths at the airport. There are a few of them there to keep the exchange rate competitive.

Since I often visiting Indonesia, I take some leftover Rupiah back home for the next trip back to Indonesia.

Few years ago I learned that Bank Central Asia (BCA) allowed foreigner to open an account with passport. So, I opened an account there. Now I have no ATM problem as BCA ATM machines are all over Indonesia. I can pay Indonesian dive operator, airlines, etc., electronically via Klik BCA.
 
I’ve been diving in Indonesia almost every year for over 18 years. The best way to get cash in Rupiah is by bringing new $100 bills and exchange them at the local bank booths at the airport. There are a few of them there to keep the exchange rate competitive.

Since I often visiting Indonesia, I take some leftover Rupiah back home for the next trip back to Indonesia.

Few years ago I learned that Bank Central Asia (BCA) allowed foreigner to open an account with passport. So, I opened an account there. Now I have no ATM problem as BCA ATM machines are all over Indonesia. I can pay Indonesian dive operator, airlines, etc., electronically via Klik BCA.
Yeah, all these 'Muricans think Asia is like back home and rock up with their frequent mile credit/debit cards and expect no problems. Most of them haven't handled actual cash in years. Traveling around SE Asia often, I agree that crisp new $100 dollar notes (and the Wise app) are one's best friend.
 
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