Quick Set - Poppet & Seat Break-In Fixture? Reviews?

[Bryan@Vintage Double Hose]

Just to play Devil's advocate and learn something...other than reduced air use compared with fifty tiny panting triggers (the best way I can describe that mouth motion I use that doesn't really involve any breathing),
how does this (not inexpensive) toy set a seat any better than 3 hours pressurized on the bench while I work on something else? Teach me.

I leave every regulator pressurized overnight before using the quick set tool.
When I assemble an Argonaut Kraken for the 1st time I do the whole process twice.
It may not be the perfect process but it has worked very well over the years.

 

[axxel57]

Since 2008 every regulator I (we) service (about 250 - 300 regulators/year) runs for 5 minutes on the Quick Set before the final adjustments.
Tried before for about 18 years the static seat in method, it's for me not nearly as reliable in final sealing results as the Quick Set.......

 

[BoltSnap]

Small pressure drop (overnight) indicates very small leaks and they can be very hard to find and are really not an issue, so I may ignore a very small leak.

Can also happen because of temperature change, drop, causing pressure drop. The only way to know for sure that it is indeed a "leak" is to submerge the system in water and watching for consistent bubble leak.

 

[Luis H]

Can also happen because of temperature change, drop, causing pressure drop. The only way to know for sure that it is indeed a "leak" is to submerge the system in water and watching for consistent bubble leak.

Well, that is not totally correct.

If the pressure continues to go down day after day (for several days or more), it can only be explained by a leak.


The pressure drop as a function of temperature drop (often referred to as Charles’s law) is part of what is commonly known as ideal gas law. Ideal gas law is one of the thermodynamic processes that is 100% reversible.

In other words, if you have a truly closed gas system (at constant volume), the pressure would go down when the temperature goes down, but it will also go back up when the temperature goes back up.

This up and down process is completely reversible and the relationship between pressure and temperature stays constant. This process and relationship is so repeatable that we have made some dial indicating thermometers that read temperature, but they are actually driven by the gas pressure.


I have been using this method for enough decades that I have a fairly good “empirical feel “ for the bubbles size and rate that I would expect to see. I have also done plenty bubble check to check for leaks. I actually have a high pressure hose that I can attach a first stage and dunk them in water without having to move a scuba tank.


BTW, some of the leak rates I am referring to can be as low as a bubble per minute or less (depending on location).

At one time I actually did some rough calculation of leak rates.

Some leaks should be located and repaired because they will get worse with time, but there are some minute leaks that can be easily tolerated.

 

[BoltSnap]

If the pressure continues to go down day after day (for several days or more), it can only be explained by a leak.


The pressure drop as a function of temperature drop (often referred to as Charles’s law) is part of what is commonly known as ideal gas law. Ideal gas law is one of the thermodynamic processes that is 100% reversible.

In other words, if you have a truly closed gas system (at constant volume), the pressure would go down when the temperature goes down, but it will also go back up when the temperature goes back up.

This up and down process is completely reversible and the relationship between pressure and temperature stays constant. This process and relationship is so repeatable that we have made some dial indicating thermometers that read temperature, but they are actually driven by the gas pressure.

If you have a truly close/lossless system then for sure the pressure will go down and up depending on the temperature change. If you start your experiment in a warm place and then the place cools down or if you move the equipment to a colder room without chance in temp. rising, then the pressure will continue to either drop or stay lower than the initial condition. If the temperature rises to the initial temperature, the pressure will go up the same as long as the system is a lossless system.

 

[BoltSnap]

there are some minute leaks that can be easily tolerated.

I'd want to know what and why is leaking and where.

 

[Luis H]

If you have a truly close/lossless system then for sure the pressure will go down and up depending on the temperature change. If you start your experiment in a warm place and then the place cools down or if you move the equipment to a colder room without chance in temp. rising, then the pressure will continue to either drop or stay lower than the initial condition. If the temperature rises to the initial temperature, the pressure should do the same as long as the system is a lossless system.

The "pressure will only continue to drop" as long as the temperature drops. There is a direct correlation between the two.

There is no "should". This relationship is not optional. This is a thermodynamic process and it is very predictable.

 

[Luis H]

I'd want to know what and why is leaking and where.

I can understand that and at times I used to feel that way.

I have seen leaks so small that it takes several minutes to form a small bubble. Most divers or technicians will not even see them if they don't stay focused on the right location. But the long term pressure drop leak test that I have used can actually detect the presence of a leak that small.

A very small leak is not a big deal.

YMMV

 

[Colliam7]

Yes, this is a thread 'back to life' bump.

Since people in the thread were asking about the Quick Set, by any chance does anyone have a copy of the user manual for it? I have discovered one (Peter Built Co. vintage), laying unused in a drawer in our dive shop, and want to put it back into service. I notice a tag on the machine recommending 'lubricate the piston o'rings and and cylinder walls after every 100 regulators'. I am interested guidance on the proper procedure for this, before I simply start disassembling it..

 

[axxel57]

I'm pretty sure there is no manual.
To change the four o-rings you just have to remove the center screw, pull out the pistons with the o-rings, clean the two cylinders, lube the the o-rings and the inside of the cylinders with Cristo Lube 129 or 111or something equivalent, put back the pistons into the cylinders and get the push rods aligned as it was (sometimes a bit tricky) and tight the screw.
To order the o-rings, contact Joan Howe from Scuba Tools joan@scubatools.com or info@scubatools.com and send a photo of the machine.
There is a newer and an older version, they use different o-rings in their cylinders.
Good luck!