Quick canister light. Will this work?

[raftingtigger]

This project started as a flashlight repair and has quickly gotten out-of-hand and is evolving into a canister light project. I have the following parts on hand:

1. Dive light head, body, and tailcap:
2. Cree XL-M T6 emmitter on star
3. Heat sink for above
All from the original broken light http://www.linkdelight.com/DC080-200m-Underwater-Diving-CREE-XML-T6-LED-Torch-Flashlight.html
The driver board is toast. I have ordered a 18V 5W Cree Circuit Board for Flashlights (16.8mm*5.5mm) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme from DX, but understand it may take 2 months to arrive and I'm a bit impatient.

4. Ikelite 4-C dive light that the housing is in good condition
Mini C-Lite

5. Four 4xAA dive lights (180LM) that I can steal a driver board from
20m Underwater Diving CREE Q3 LED Torch Flashlight | Camping & Hiking | Sports & Outdoor | Linkdelight.com

6. Three 3xAA flashlights (150LM) that I can steal a driver board from
Amazon.com: Techlite Lumen Master 150 Lumens High-Intensity CREE XPE L.E.D. Tactical Flashlight, 3 Pack: Home Improvement

Parts I would need:

1. Batteries. I'm looking at these for ease of use and recharging safety.
NiMH Rechargeable Cell: C Size 1.2V 5000mAh Button top (1pc)

2. 16/2 cable

3. cable glands

Plan:

1. Replace the Ikelite lens with a high-density plastic disk drilled and fitted with a cable gland.
2. Solder the cable to the lamp terminals
3. Fabricate a tailcap for the light head, install a cable gland, and solder the cable to the driver board
OR
3a. install a cable gland into the existing tailcap and do the above. This may be easier, but definitely a less desirable solution.
4. Steal a driver board from either of the lights above. I'd prefer to dismantle the non-diving one (3xAAA), but the 4xAA might be a better choice. This is where I am lacking in knowledge.
5. Solder and assemble the driver board, heat sink, and XL-M emitter

My goal is to use this as my video light for my GoPro. Dives last at most 70 min. I can leave the reflector out of the light head for a flood pattern, and adjust the depth within the head for proper spread. The canister can clip to the bottom of my camera tray with the light head on a flexible arm.

If I'm ever so inclined I can replace the reflector and use it as a regular can light.

This whole things seems too simple. Am I missing anything important?

PS. This is also posted on CPF.

 

[raftingtigger]

Pictures from my almost completed project - I'm still waiting for the driver board. Everything pressure tests to 100'+

 

[JamesK]

I know nothing about lighting construction, but this is interesting to me. Keep updating.

 

[Starcruiser]

Looks like a great project.

 

[HenrikBP]

That's pretty nifty. I'd like to have machining capabilities like that.

 

[raftingtigger]

That's pretty nifty. I'd like to have machining capabilities like that.

I'm doing all the turning on a wood midi-lathe. Everything was mounted on a 1/4" pen mandrel and I used hand held tools (Nomex suit is on ). You can do the same thing with a drill press. It just requires some patience. I've used the same technique to turn some prototype dry glove rings. More on that when I've finalized my design, but they are for use with standard latex or neoprene glued in wrist seals - and I'm cheating - I now have headstock jaws and have a tailstock chuck on order. Lathed threads are and will be beyond me.

 

[raftingtigger]

THE LIGHT WORKS VERY WELL . I'm using it as my main diving light since I found a better video light. See http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/gopro-video/438078-ultralight-gopro-tray-3.html

I've made a few (temporary changes) and the result is the light only produces about 400 lumens currently. This is plenty of light, but can't wait to see what ~900 lumens will look like.

Here is a beam shot from my last dive

My temporary changes are: Using 2 18650 batteries instead of the 4 c-cells. I bought the 'wrong' driver and the higher voltage works better. To do this I made 2 adapters to allow 1-18650 battery to replace 2-C-cells end-to-end.
I had to bend the end of the spring in to make contact with the positive 'button' on the battery.

When 3D Diver gets home maybe he will contribute a picture of the light in use.

Further mods planned: replace the driver with this:

17mm 2800mA 5-Mode Memory Regulated LED Driver Circuit Board for Flashlight (DC 3~4.5V) ​

from DX.com. The current driver only puts out 1250 mA and runs on 6-18V, this gives about 400 lumens with the Cree XM-L T6 emitter. The emitter can handle up to 3000 mA so with the new driver (which I will set to max only) I should easily double my output.

I had the light on for the whole time on both dives (changed them after the first dive). Each dive was 40 minutes - so figure maybe 35 minutes lit. In that time the voltage dropped from full (4.20V) to 4.0V and the batteries were rated for about 2400 mAh (true, not advertised). I figure that will give me a useful burn of at least 1-1/2 hours per set, maybe a little longer. Doubling the current and increasing the battery capacity to 5000 mAh as originally planned should give me at least the same run time. Plenty for my OW only uses, but it does leave the door open for another fun project .

 

[HenrikBP]

I'm doing all the turning on a wood midi-lathe. <snip> You can do the same thing with a drill press.

I'm not sure I'd be up for that ... and that I'd be able to get the precision necessary. Very nice job.

 

[3D diver]

When 3D Diver gets home maybe he will contribute a picture of the light in use

You betcha, flying home tomorrow.

 

[raftingtigger]

Pics of the light in use courtesy of 3D Diver

In the second picture you can see the battery canister (yellow) just above the white reel.