Question on O2 cleaning

[gr8fuldiverNC]

while trying to set up tec rigs for a shop in honduras, i was going to O2 clean the the cylinders. there was no global tec blue stuff, or even simple green available (i know, i know, not a great choice) and they didnt want to order any. when i asked what i should use, they told me they use regular bathroom degreaser, not even food grade. needless to say, i didnt clean the tanks. no proper rinse or drying racks available either, a plain hose is used. apparently this is the standard practice in the area for O2 cleaning tanks. i would guess that its also used for regs, (i brought my own clean regs with me). does anyone know anything about cleaning with bathroom cleaner? this seems completely unacceptable to me, or am i overreacting?

 

[Dtaine]

Well this might get me to rethink future Roatan dives (I'll be spending all summer there).

Obviously I'm a few years away from tech but I'd love to do some exploration along the deep walls there in the future. If I need to avoid a place with substandard practices I could sure use to know now rather than be surprised later.

Anybody got any thoughts on the OP's question?

Also, mind sharing which shop this was? If I was a betting man there's one place in particular that this wouldn't surprise me from. You can PM me if you don't want to say on the boards (I won't re-post it).

 

[Doc Harry]

The preferred agent for O2 cleaning, approved by cylinder manufacturers, is Joy dishwashing soap.

 

[Gilldiver]

Standard dish washing detergents like Joy or Cascade will meet NASA Manned space requirements for O2 cleaning. So don't get hung up on the cleaner all that much.

Make sure that you use a good tooth brush to clean the threads. Use a soft clean cotton rag and try to get all the way down into the threads. If you see any color on the rag, keep going with the brush and cleaner solution till you cann't get anymore color.

For tanks the key is to use HOT CLEAN water. If you can drink the water and there is no bad smell to it, it is clean enough. How hot is hot? You should need gloves on your hands to hold the tank for the final rinse. Place it upside down and blow clean air from a tank into the tank you are cleaning and it should be completly dry in less then 30 seconds.

The valve is another story - complete diassembly and cleaning is needed. I'll do a full cleaning and then put all the metal parts into a pot of new clean cleaning solution and let it simmer on a stove top for 10 to 20 minutes, then a good rins and dry, reassembly with an O2 lube, etc....

 

[Atomic_Diver]

i dont know much about that but i wouldnt let them get near any of my gear unless its food grade only.

 

[JBRES1]

I have used the Dow Scrubbing bubbles to clean the outside of some of my gear, but not on the inside of tanks.
I will use the Scrubbing bubbles on my regs to clean the outside of the housing, hoses and 2nd stage regs, then I flush the regs with warm water. I do this about 2 or 3 times a year. It has not killer me yet, and it keeps my gear looking good.

Jim B

 

[Flightlead]

Standard dish washing detergents like Joy or Cascade will meet NASA Manned space requirements for O2 cleaning. So don't get hung up on the cleaner all that much.

Make sure that you use a good tooth brush to clean the threads. Use a soft clean cotton rag and try to get all the way down into the threads. If you see any color on the rag, keep going with the brush and cleaner solution till you cann't get anymore color.

For tanks the key is to use HOT CLEAN water. If you can drink the water and there is no bad smell to it, it is clean enough. How hot is hot? You should need gloves on your hands to hold the tank for the final rinse. Place it upside down and blow clean air from a tank into the tank you are cleaning and it should be completly dry in less then 30 seconds.

The valve is another story - complete diassembly and cleaning is needed. I'll do a full cleaning and then put all the metal parts into a pot of new clean cleaning solution and let it simmer on a stove top for 10 to 20 minutes, then a good rins and dry, reassembly with an O2 lube, etc....

cotton? don't you want to stay away from anything that could leave lint (ie fuel)

 

[scubaskipper]

We always used simple green for the tanks and Joys for parts.

 

[Gilldiver]

cotton? don't you want to stay away from anything that could leave lint (ie fuel)

I could have said Dupont Sontora, but that would bring us into Aerospace bonding practice.

The cotton rag is so that you can press it down into the threads with a finger and rotate it 360 degrees and then look at it. Any oils or dirt will be easily seen and you keep scrubbing the threads till they are clean and no color is seen on the next wipe.

Then you do the slosh cleaning of the tank which will take care of any lint.

I do at least 2 sloshes -

1) Put 2 or 3 quarts of hot cleaning solution (If you use Cascade dissolve it first)
2) Slosh it around for 3 or 4 minutes.
3) Pour out the solution
4) Put in about the same volume of hot clean water
5) Slosh it around for 2 to 3 minutes
Repeat 1 to 5 at least one more time
Pour the Hot rinse water through a clean white cloth and look for particulate and any dirt to dark color.
Repeat the above till your cloth stays clean when the rinse is poured through it.

Then completely fill the tank with clean hot water
Pour out the water and place on a stand like this and blow clean air into it (I use a 90 degree electrical conduit to get the air in).

One or two 20 to 30 second blows should leave you with a clean dry tank.

The cost of the tools is less then $5. The photo shows a 40 being dried, it works for all other size tanks also.

 

[Gilldiver]

We always used simple green for the tanks and Joys for parts.

Simple Green is good to use as it is a good cleaner and the scent of it is quite noticeable. If you can smell it, keep rinsing. When you can't smell it at the tank neck anymore, any remaining amount in the tank is only a few ppm and well below any point you need to be worried about.