Question about putting tanks and valves together!

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Florabama:
They know me and my son so well, my shop lets me fill my own tanks including nitrox, so we could fill them without a problem. They do insist on doing a VIP when due, so I would have to put a VIP sticker on them, but we have some extra stickers stowed around the house. :wink:
Interesting.

Who taught you how to do a vis?
 
jonnythan:
Interesting.

Who taught you how to do a vis?

My son is in the NAUI DiveMaster Program at my local shop. They are real good about making sure a student learns how to fill tanks and do the VIPS as well as teach classes.
 
Cool.. I wish I had that going :wink:
 
Same question comes up here. Usually you need a vis if the tanks come empty. But if you are connected with a shop why are asking here just ask at the shop.
 
ScubaSarus:
Same question comes up here. Usually you need a vis if the tanks come empty. But if you are connected with a shop why are asking here just ask at the shop.

Maybe, just maybe....because this is a discussion board for things Scuba related, and I was interested in hearing other opinions. If you're not interested in the discussion, why are you posting on this thread?
 
Please do consult the shop that lets you use their fill station as to how they want tanks assembled and inspected.

FWIW, I do not lube the tank neck oring (increases chances of extrusion). Threads are lubed, as COVCI explained, to try to keep the valve metal (chrome & brass) away from tank (steel or AL), so that you can get the valve apart next year without damaging either -- one reason it's important to do annual vis. Dip tubes are secured, but careful not to mar the chrome.

As for O2 cleaning and/or nitrox use, many threads here on that. Let me summarize a bit.
- partial pressure filling and/or mixes over 40%, tanks and valve must be cleaned and christo used
- you will see much debate over what material to use for orings in tanks/valves in this case
- pre-mix or continuous under 40%, no cleaning necessary, but I'd still stay away from silicone
- individual store policies will vary as will tank marking procedures for nitrox and/or clean tanks as will period to re-clean the tank
 
cerich:
Use cristolube only on the oring and not much, use a clean wrench to snug up the tube without stripping the chrome off. Otherwise your tank will end up sounding like a rattle. I just give the handle of the valve a smack with my palm to tighten, no rubber mallet needed here at all!

Today I assembled a tank and valve for the first time. I'm afraid I stripped of some chrome of the dip tube :( Is this really a problem, should I disassemble everything again?
 
Hand tight only.

Trying to get an argon bottle apart for a friend...
After multiple tools, I finally had to stick the valve in a vise (ruining it) and put a 6 foot (yes -6-) pipe wrench on the bottle and heave with almost everything I had to get it to spin. I think they used lock tight.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom