Q. Roo 1st trip report (long but with photos and vids)

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Dive-aholic

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Finally got the videos edited and complete (good thing it’s been slow at work!). Videos have been uploaded to YouTube (best viewed in small size - sorry for the compression). Keep in mind that we have just started taking photos in caves. It’s a whole different thing taking photos in the dark. This is also the first time we’ve seriously undertaken shooting video in caves during swim dives, so we weren’t as steady as we would have liked to have been. Nevertheless, the photos and videos give you a good idea of what the systems we dove were like. I only wish we had bigger lights to really show you the larger rooms in some of those systems.

Anyway, let’s start with the photo slide show here:



Okay, now for a trip report followed by video footage of the dives we did.

We arrived in Cancun Thursday afternoon, got our bags and headed over to get our rental car. My mother was flying in from the east coast to hang out on the beach while we went diving. She was supposed to arrive before us, but her flight was delayed so we headed to a small beach frequented by the locals to stick our feet in the water. Well, a small crasher came up and got more than just our feet wet! After that experience, we got back in the car and drove towards hotel zone (my first trip to Cancun). Talk about Americanized! I don’t think we saw any locals once we hit the zone. And all the restaurants are American! I’d rather head south and enjoy the more untouched part of Mexico.

Anyway, Mom’s flight finally got in. We picked her up and headed south to Playa del Carmen (not so unAmericanized, but still better than Cancun). We stayed at the Viva Wyndham Maya in Playacar. It’s an all-inclusive, which took the issue of planning meals away. It was a nice place with decent food and gave Mom a lot to do while we were off diving. We got settled in, went to the beach and had some pina coladas and eventually made it to the buffet for dinner. BTW, you can see the buildings and lights of Cozumel right from the Viva Maya beach.

The next day we woke up early, excited to head to the cenotes for our first dives in Mexican caves! We had breakfast and then headed over to the main lobby of the resort to wait for Dennis, our guide for the weekend. Dennis arrived, we loaded our gear into the back of his pickup and headed to Cenote Ponderosa (the usual place guides use to check out cave divers they haven’t been diving with). It’s a good thing we hit there first. It had only been 2 months (to the day) since our last cave dive, but it was our first time diving double AL80s and it was a little different than diving double steels. Throw in the halocline to mess with our buoyancy… We didn’t touch top or bottom or silt things out, but it was an experience. Nothing like dropping through the halocline and having to dump air from your wing so you don’t pop back up through it or ascending through the halocline and having to add air. Our first dive lasted a little over an hour, but we didn’t get to penetrate as far as we would have liked. Oh well, Dennis dropped a cookie on the line and during the second dive we were able to do the River Run circuit. Even with the buoyancy issues from new tanks and fresh to salt/salt to fresh on the first dive, we had a great time diving Ponderosa. It doesn’t have the formations of some of the other caves, but it was so cool swimming through the halocline. During the 2nd dive, I spent about 10 minutes of the dive swimming in and out of the halocline just because it was such a neat thing to experience. It’s so weird to be swimming in crystal clear water and then dropping through and stirring up the water to create a blurriness. At times it was even difficult seeing the gold line because of the blurriness. There were moments I was relying on the light from Jen’s light to let me know where the line was. It was pretty cool to be swimming under the halocline and looking up to see the sheet of fresh water moving along faster than the salt water (you can see this in the video). Then swimming above the halocline and looking down at it made it seem like we were flying in the air over a body of water. Dennis told us the water temperature between the 2 waters was only 2 degrees difference (77 for fresh and 79 for salt), but it seemed like a 10 degree difference! I swear I was sweating when we were swimming through the salt water. It’s also very strange to taste salt while diving in a cave! This cave has a lot of percolation happening. Our bubbles would dislodge little pieces of silt from the ceiling and it would come dropping down. It was neat watching this because the silt seemed to hang in the fresh water zone for quite a long time. Dropping down below the halocline cleared up any sight of the silt pieces. It was also strange to be swimming along a cave and coming across sunlight pouring into the cave. During our circuit dive, we swam past a couple of different cenotes – Little Joe Cenote and Zazil Ha Cenote. It was also strange to see a couple of pairs of legs penetrating the surface. I wonder if they saw us and what they must have thought about seeing 3 divers coming out of the darkness. We had a couple of great dives in Ponderosa. Dennis brought us over to the fill station in P. Aventuras (man I wish I owned that many tanks!), then we swung by his shop, Aquanauts and he gave us a quick tour of the dolphin jail and the beach in front of the Omni resort. After that he brought us back to our resort where we found Mom sunning herself on the beach. We dropped off gear and cooled ourselves off in the water. Here’s a video of our dive in Ponderosa:



The next day we drove down to P. Aventuras and met Dennis at his shop to save him the drive north to pick us up. We transferred gear to his truck, headed over to the fill station to pick up tanks, then headed to Cenote Grande Garden of Eden. After having gotten used to the double 80s the day before, Dennis decided he was going to keep us on our toes. For the first dive, instead of the 80s, we used steel 104s. Talk about heavy tanks!! I knew they were much heavier than any other tanks we had been in before, but I had no idea how heavy they would feel in the water! We did a giant stride off the platform with fully inflated wings and dropped right to the bottom. My feet hit the bottom (that’s never happened before) and Jen could barely get herself back to the surface. Once on the surface, even with fully inflated wings, we had to keep kicking to keep our chins out of the water. And we were wearing 7mm wetsuits! I also spent half of the first dive trying to correct my orientation in the water. I set up my rig so the tanks were sitting high on my back, but I was still foot heavy at the beginning of each dive I did in those. The first dive we did was to the Calimba T. We got to the T and found some silt just hanging mid water. Afterwards, Dennis told us it was probably caused by some other divers that had entered the system at the Calimba Cenote. Cenote Grande is a beautiful system with some awesome formations. This was our first dive where we were able to see so many stals and soda straws underwater. For the 2nd dive we went back to 80s and swam the Cuzan Ha Loop. This dive was a lot of fun. We went through some passages that were on the smallish side. In fact, before the dive, Dennis had even asked us how we felt about small passages. No problem for us and these passages were not the smallest we’ve been in, but it was fun to maneuver through the passages. What I call the sand slide was pretty interesting as well. Even more fun was the fact that a couple of fish decided to follow us on this dive. Every now and then on the video you can spot them swimming in front of the camera. I just kept hoping they would stay with us so they could make it back to the cenote with us. One of the things I really like about Cenote Grande is the huge cavern area. It’s strange to be tying off the primary in what appears to be overhead, but when you look up you can see that it actually is open water, just open water with a ceiling above that! You can see the stals coming through the surface of the water at the end of our video. I’m looking forward to returning here and spending a little more time in the cavern exploring and even snorkeling it. Here’s our video from Cenote Grande:

 
Our 3rd, and final day, of diving the Mexican caves on this trip was spent diving 2 more systems. We headed over to Maya Blue for our first dive. This is one of the deeper systems in Q. Roo. Our dives so far had hit a maximum depth of 52’ with an average depth in the 30’ range. On this dive, we hit a max depth of 82’ with an average depth in the 70’ range. We dove 104s again for this dive (I still can’t get used to them). We went into the B Tunnel entrance and swam back to the A Tunnel junction and jumped over to the A Tunnel line. We kept going to a large room before turning the dive. Maya Blue is another system with a halocline. The halocline seemed to be layered about 8 times. Depending on where we were in the system, it ranged from 52’ to about 64’. There were times when I was trying to get out of it, but almost couldn’t. Maya Blue has some pretty big passages. You could drive an 18-wheeler through some of these passages if you could get it down there. It also has a blue hue to it below the halocline (hence the name Maya Blue). Due to our depth and length of dive, we bought a deco obligation, which we had planned on. We ended up swimming around the basin and taking photos for 20 minutes at the end of the dive (only 16 minutes required but we were having fun exploring the basin – it’s huge!). Here’s video of our Maya Blue dive. Notice there’s a lot of darkness in this footage. That’s because our lights weren’t really powerful enough to fully penetrate the size of the rooms.



We tore down our gear, loaded it in Dennis’ truck and headed farther south to Chan Hol for our last dive of the trip. Chan Hol doesn’t even have a real cenote. Basically, it’s a small puddle in the ground that has an even smaller hole into the system. There’s no other opening to the system known. So far about 4.5 km have been lined and mapped. It’s a great dive. In fact, it’s my favorite system in Mexico so far, and I doubt it will be replaced as my favorite. The system has only been known about for a few years and only started becoming known about a year ago. Dennis told us he’s brought divers there that have called the dive before even starting it because they didn’t feel comfortable with the entrance. The system is almost pristine. The line actually comes out of the water and is tied off in air. You step into the pool, get on your knees to put on your fins, then drop forward. By this time, it’s quite silty already from stepping and kneeling in the water, so it’s a blind entry and the line is too far to the left to hold onto it while entering. It was a bit of a trust me entry, but as Dennis told us, it did clear out immediately once we popped into the first room. Never mind the 2nd diver not having any visibility going in, the first one doesn’t either! The line is all #24 cave line. There is no gold line here. The line immediately Ts and we took the passage to the left (which you see us coming out of at the end of the video). We swam back to the area where human remains were found. There are what appear to be human femurs and part of a skull set down on the bottom about 40 minutes into the dive. We jumped to the room with the bones and just stayed there for a few minutes paying our respects. We turned the dive and started heading back and enjoying the cave. Chan Hol is a white cave with lots of formations. It has some smaller passages and some larger passages. It also has a lot of potential side passages, which we are looking forward to exploring during future trips. We also saw old fire rings and evidence of smoke discoloration on the ceiling of this system. On the way back, Dennis showed us a couple of pots that were found in the cave. They are believed to have been dropped into the system centuries ago. I can’t even put in words what it felt live swimming through this system and thinking about the days when it was a dry cave and the Mayan would travel through these passages on foot. This was definitely a great dive to end our trip with. Here’s the video:



We’re estimating we swam over a mile each day (that’s a lot of swimming). We had a fabulous time and can’t wait to get back there for some more diving. We’re already planning the next trip and planning on checking out some condos while we’re there. We can foresee going there enough to justify buying a condo already. On our next trip we plan on diving a couple of different systems and spending a few days revisiting systems that we dove on this past trip. There’s a lot of diving to be done there!
 
sweet report! maybe next year we'll join you guys for a sample...
 
Sweet read Rob.

Question for Mayan Blue. When you crossed from B to A, was in through Death Arrow passage (large room you described) or was it a way's back? (I guess I could ask how many mins did you swim before the jump?). I don't entirely recall all the line-age in there but my guess now that I am thinking of it some more that you probably swam the tunnel which jumps to E as well. I really like Mayan Blue myself and want to hit that cenote a few more times. As you said, the blue hue is really cool.

The method for getting in (and out) the gate at the road works for me too :D
 
Kris, we'd love to have you come out next year. We're trying to talk my sister and her boy friend into coming out, too. They'll be cavern certified by then, so you could do some cenote diving with them.


Steve, we swam past the E Tunnel jump to the end of the B Tunnel line and jumped over to A Tunnel line. We then swam about another 5 minutes or so down that line. We turned in the room before the Battleship Room. Yeah, we really liked Mayan Blue. In fact, we bought a map to it and plan on doing several more dives there.
 
Rob,

Thanks for the detailed report and the video. Sooooo sweet
 
Dive-aholic:
Steve, we swam past the E Tunnel jump to the end of the B Tunnel line and jumped over to A Tunnel line. We then swam about another 5 minutes or so down that line. We turned in the room before the Battleship Room. Yeah, we really liked Mayan Blue. In fact, we bought a map to it and plan on doing several more dives there.

Ya that's what I figured.

Sounds like we both had similar thoughts about going back and doing a few more one day at this place.

Hopefully February for us.
 
Yeah, I just talked to Jen (my wife) and we may be heading back in March for a few more days. Next July just seems too far away...


Don, no problem. I look forward to making more video and dive reports real soon. The next ones will be of Florida caves. And they could just be weekly...if I find the time to type them up in between dives... :D
 
Sounds like a great trip. The Yucatan is high on my "must visit" list

Dont think I would do 104's with a wetsuit though. A wing failure could result in a long walk out of the cave !
 
It was a great trip! In fact, we're already planning our next trip back there.

We dive double bladder wings, so we were redundant. No walking out of any cave for us!
 
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