Ah aluminum plates and anodizing.
Anodizing is the controlled application of Aluminum Oxide (AO) AO is a brittle, hard ceramic coating. Aluminum will naturally develop an oxide coating almost instantly after being cut or machined.
If an aluminum part is colored, i.e dyed, it is almost certainly Type II, although Type III (hardcoat) is sometimes dyed black.
Hardcoat anodizing offers the advantage of a thicker coating, ~.002" vs .001" for Type II.
In terms of performance on a Scuba backplate it is important to remember that a thin hard brittle coating is no stronger than the underlying aluminum. 5000 series aluminum is most often used for marine applications, and it performs quite well even when not anodized. 5000 series aluminum is not heat treatable, and will remain fairly soft.
What happens when you apply a hard, thin, brittle coating over a soft substrate? It fails wherever localized point loads are applied, such as spring lock washers and thumbscrews. The underlying material distorts and the thin brittle coating cracks or chips off.
Hardcoat anodizing is an excellent treatment for hard aluminum parts (2000 series, or 7000 series) that will be subjected to abrasive wear, such as two parts sliding against each other. Fork tubes on a motorcycle for example, or internal pump parts. Aircraft hydraulic pumps are a classic application.
Hardcoat anodizing a soft 5000 series part is in my opinion a waste of time, pure marketing.
Remember, scuba tanks are 6061 aluminum, which is less corrosion resistant than 5000 series, and with minimal care these aluminum tanks perform fine for long periods without any coating.
Tobin