How come you ordered a 150? Isn't the water quite cold in Utah? I would get really cold really fast in a 150 unless the water is in the upper 60s.adding a trilam dry suit and undergarments (base layer and Thinsulate 150 uni-suit).
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How come you ordered a 150? Isn't the water quite cold in Utah? I would get really cold really fast in a 150 unless the water is in the upper 60s.adding a trilam dry suit and undergarments (base layer and Thinsulate 150 uni-suit).
I dive a 150 down to the mid/low 40s. It only gets a bit chilly once I pass the hour mark AND I've been scooting the whole time. Finning and the 150 is quite warm for me...How come you ordered a 150? Isn't the water quite cold in Utah? I would get really cold really fast in a 150 unless the water is in the upper 60s.
I know some people don't feel cold but that's not normal. In my experience, most people will feel really cold in a 150 in even in the high 40s.I dive a 150 down to the mid/low 40s. It only gets a bit chilly once I pass the hour mark AND I've been scooting the whole time. Finning and the 150 is quite warm for me...
It's all subjective to the individual's cold tolerance, their internal furnace (ability to create heat), how much fuel they have beforehand (food), and their workload. If you're sitting still doing macro for 60-70 minutes then a heated vest and 250 or 400s would be quite useful. Finning around looking at stuff, 150 works well. Last time I was in low 40s was May. Diving in high current with scooters and my 150. All 8 dives that weekend were 1 hour plus and I was never cold. 1 of the dives I forgot my socks and went barefoot in my suit. That was the only time any part of me felt cold. It wasn't miserable, just noticeable.I know some people don't feel cold but that's not normal. In my experience, most people will feel really cold in a 150 in even in the high 40s.
In the 40s I'll tune up a 400. 150s are really meant to be used in warm water.
Hi @Boarderguy. In my original post I said 7mm equivalent which, for me, is a 5mm jumpsuit over a 5/3 hooded vest. So core insulation might be equivalent, but not buoyancy. With that, I have an aluminum BP, 30 lb wing, and a single HP100. Ten pounds (6 on the hips and 4 on the upper BP) work just right. I stay pretty active and feel comfortable down to the upper 50’s.@Litefoot what was your weighting for the 7mm? Was it farmer John style or a jump suit? I used a 6/7/8 Hollis Semi-dry before switching and used 12lbs on a belt and 4 opposite my back mounted pony. When I went dry I went up to 30 lbs, 16 belt, 4 opposite pony, 10 in pockets in my waist pockets. This is with an AL backplate and HP 100s. I like having the extra weight so I can keep the suit puffed up a bit more for warmth at stops. I can probably drop to 26 ish without issue but I know I'm not floaty and can keep my suit full at stops.
I tried using 22 or so when I first started dry and it was a nightmare. I was far too light to get it figured out and was miserable because of it. Better to be a few lbs heavy than a few too light.
I'd still recommend going to near 30lbs initially. The added buoyancy from the suit will throw things off initially and having the extra lead will make life easier and the learning curve smallerHi @Boarderguy. In my original post I said 7mm equivalent which, for me, is a 5mm jumpsuit over a 5/3 hooded vest. So core insulation might be equivalent, but not buoyancy. With that, I have an aluminum BP, 30 lb wing, and a single HP100. Ten pounds (6 on the hips and 4 on the upper BP) work just right. I stay pretty active and feel comfortable down to the upper 50’s.
Good question. I decided on 150 based on my reading here in SB and it seems like I can avoid some garment import duties by ordering it without the 250 from Seaskin. Anyway, I’ll start there and add layers if I need to. However, if I’m diving into temps in the 40’s F, maybe I should reconsider.How come you ordered a 150? Isn't the water quite cold in Utah? I would get really cold really fast in a 150 unless the water is in the upper 60s.