Propeller wobble in Submerge Scooters N-19
- Thread starter Heka
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So here it is
The pitch info is estimated as I've used diveX plastic rear parts and they doesn't have the dials
Somehow the 6 seems to wobble more than the 3
Had to keep the trigger time low, I almost overflowed our hot tub on the highest setting
The pitch info is estimated as I've used diveX plastic rear parts and they doesn't have the dials
Somehow the 6 seems to wobble more than the 3
Had to keep the trigger time low, I almost overflowed our hot tub on the highest setting
in too deep
Contributor
I replaced the clutch plate in mine and it solved my wobble.
I doubt that the high speed shaft seal would cause a problem here. Likewise, the bearings are housed within the tail cone and within the motor housing. Cannot see those bearings going bad. The ones that came out of my SS Viper were steel and lubricated with some heavy grease.
You should disassemble the entire properlly assembly. Inspect each the propeller blades, the yoke, yoke screw, hubs (upper & lower), the pitch adjustment knob and the clutch plate. A worn plastic clutch plate along the retainer pin that is thread across the propeller shaft, can cause this. Be careful with the removal and installation of the Yoke & Yoke screw. The yoke holds the propller blades and adjust the pitch. It is extremely easy to break the Yoke, where it attaches to the propeller blades.
Resist the temptation to use a power tool to re-fasten the screws that hold the upper hub to the lower hub. It doesn't take much to crack the plastic. Also resist the urge to over torque the screws. Again, the plastic breaks easily.
Let us know what you find.
You should disassemble the entire properlly assembly. Inspect each the propeller blades, the yoke, yoke screw, hubs (upper & lower), the pitch adjustment knob and the clutch plate. A worn plastic clutch plate along the retainer pin that is thread across the propeller shaft, can cause this. Be careful with the removal and installation of the Yoke & Yoke screw. The yoke holds the propller blades and adjust the pitch. It is extremely easy to break the Yoke, where it attaches to the propeller blades.
Resist the temptation to use a power tool to re-fasten the screws that hold the upper hub to the lower hub. It doesn't take much to crack the plastic. Also resist the urge to over torque the screws. Again, the plastic breaks easily.
Let us know what you find.
clutch plate wear at the pin slot or wear on the yoke pins are mostly likely causes at this point
Thank you all for your input.
So I removed the prop assembly (didn't touch the seal as I don't want to replace it at the moment) rebuild it and after that I removed the cone from the body and rebuild that.
Here is some footage on land
I added an image of the parts that I've replaced so far ( shaft seal is replaced as well but not in the image). I have an aluminium clutch plate as well but it seemed to be more loose than the plastic one.
And as here are much more wiser people than I am. Could someone tell me what is the porous small part inside the electronics / motor compartment? Is it for condensation?
So I removed the prop assembly (didn't touch the seal as I don't want to replace it at the moment) rebuild it and after that I removed the cone from the body and rebuild that.
Here is some footage on land
I added an image of the parts that I've replaced so far ( shaft seal is replaced as well but not in the image). I have an aluminium clutch plate as well but it seemed to be more loose than the plastic one.
And as here are much more wiser people than I am. Could someone tell me what is the porous small part inside the electronics / motor compartment? Is it for condensation?
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Came upon this video on Youtube about a bent clutch plate drive pin. The persont hat uploaded the video stated that it caused his propeller assembly to wobble. Makes sense, as the clutch plate sits on the drive in and it's the drive pin that spins the clutch plate. I would think the milled channel in the clutch plate would need a very tight fitting to prevent any play between the pin and the clutch plate.
Might be worth a try, since you've already replaced everything, apart from that pin. The following is a video of my own SS Viper DPV. Mine has brand new bearings and a new shaft seal. Everything plastic, apart from the blades has been replaced. I did replace the clutch plate drive pin, although I have the original clutch plate. I don't see any wobble and I cannot detect any play when I grab the hub assembly and try to move it sideways.
O.
Might be worth a try, since you've already replaced everything, apart from that pin. The following is a video of my own SS Viper DPV. Mine has brand new bearings and a new shaft seal. Everything plastic, apart from the blades has been replaced. I did replace the clutch plate drive pin, although I have the original clutch plate. I don't see any wobble and I cannot detect any play when I grab the hub assembly and try to move it sideways.
O.
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