Primary tank question

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Maybe I should clarify what it is exactly that I plan to do, so you can provide more specific advice..

Cave and wreck diving are in the future (4-6 months from now). At the current time (after getting certified) I plan to just do recreational boat and shore diving for the time being.

I am moving to Bahrain (small island in the persian gulf), and will probably be doing alot of the same there but alot of wreck diving out there.

It is starting to sound like I should have one of each so I am not suck in a bad situation (being on a boat that doesnt support HP tanks). I am obviously going to rent several types of tanks and see which one works better but I appreciate all the advice everyone.
 
Stryker:
Cave and wreck diving are in the future (4-6 months from now). At the current time (after getting certified) I plan to just do recreational boat and shore diving for the time being.
Tanks are among the things that accumulate over time. My first tank was a steel 72 - still my favorite for warm water recreational dives in the 75' and shallower range. Aluminum 80's are cheap, acceptable as a recreatonal single and useful as stages later on, so you can't go wrong owning three or two of those. In Bahrain dropping weight won't be a problem as you'll likely be diving with a skin and no neoprene.
If money is no object, then the "perfect" tank for most average recreational divers is either the Faber LP 85 or the PST E7 100. Either can be part of a respectable set of doubles for caving or wrecking later.
---
I recommend you take, as a minimum, Nitrox, a recreational wreck specialty, Master Diver, Stress & Rescue (SSI) (or NAUI Advanced Rescue or some other agency's equivalent), and Advanced Nitrox before beginning any cave or wreck penetration course. (IOW, 4-6 months from initial certification to cave training may be just a wee bit ambitious)
S
 
I'd recommend a steel tank, myself. I'm currenly using steel some vintage 72s and PST E7-100s. The 72s for shore diving and the 100s for deeper charter boat dives. The beauty of the 72s is that they're heavier than AL tanks, cheap and plentiful. Hold just about as much air as an AL80. Check out e-bay and see how many are for sale. Also, LDSs will periodically empty their inventory of these older, but still excellent, tanks. Last forever, too.

As far as HP100s go, however, if you're going to be diving in some far away land, I'd make sure the local dive shop there or charter sevice or whatever is capable of filling an HP tank. Some outifts don't have the pressure in their filing station to accommodate such an HP. Otherwise, you've wasted your money on the steel HP tanks. In your current situation, I'd probably not even buy tanks and just play it by ear when you head over to Bahrain. See what they're using or what's availabe over there. Then when you return stateside, you could sell them to another diver. I don't know what your luggage situation would be, but hauling two steel 100s halfway around the world could pose a problem cash or weight-wise. Just a few things to think 'bout.

In any event, welcome to the world of diving.

LobstaMan
 
Have to agree with Sphyrna here. Four to six months unless you are diving every day would be a bit aggressive.

As to the tanks. I'd get at least four. Eight will get you through an agressive long weekend where you either can't get fills or can't be bothered. Personally I hated having to go to the dive shop after each day of diving, just so I could have enough gas to dive the next day.
 
OE2X:
Have to agree with Sphyrna here. Four to six months unless you are diving every day would be a bit aggressive.

As to the tanks. I'd get at least four. Eight will get you through an agressive long weekend where you either can't get fills or can't be bothered. Personally I hated having to go to the dive shop after each day of diving, just so I could have enough gas to dive the next day.

I just caught that too. That's a really aggressive schedule, even if he DID dive every day. If he's gonna dream, he might as well dream big and skip that tank refill stuff altogether and step up to an Inspiration CCR. He'd have bottom time like there's no tomorrow :eyebrow:
 
The agressive schedule not withstanding, for recreational diving, the PST E7-100 is a great all around tank. I have 2 E-7 100s and 2 E7-120s. I use the 100s for shallower reef dives and shore dives - very easy to manage. Use the 120s w/ h-valves w/ nitrox for deeper wrecks. I'm 5'11 and manage the 120s fine.
 
i'm just getting started myself (just certified last summer) and i have on order a pair of E8-130's.
i did this for a coouple of reasons.
1. lots of the poeple i dive with have been diving a long time, and i didnt want to drag down their bottom times.
2. i have an interest in caving eventually and this is a common tank size for that purpose (and 100 bucks for an aluminium stage tank will look cheap down the line instead of going the other way)
3. i know that unless i'm medically barred from divinb i'll do diving for many many years, so i saw the 750(for both) investment as sound.

HTH
 
ChrisA:
This guy is a beginner, not even certified yet AND he lives is So Cal. He'll likey be doing a lot of beach dives in surf. In a 7mm suit with 25lbs of lead. Then you add a 40 pound tank.
Most beach dives mean walking in your gear down a road. Parking is typically on a bluff overlooking the beach. Beginners have better luck dealing with surf if they cary less weight.
Then you have the problem of our So Cal boats. Some have cruddy compressors and
you can't get an HP tank filled. One of the boats (The Westerly) can't even do 3000 psi
Unless he is a large person in good shape a 120 is just to much tank. You can rent steel tanks here and try them out that way.

I would call that an excuse! I was once told buy my instructor "You need to learn to take control of your equipment, don't let it control you!" You can dive anything if you put your mind to it, even if your a beginner. You don't have to be a larger person to where a big tank. I'm not and I use a OMS LP 121. Thats 55lbs full, plus 15lb lead, full 7mm, and all the goodies I might be taking along. The bulk of your time is spent underwater wearing your equipment anyway. You don't feel the weight down under. There are ways to move your equipment from your car to the beach or boat etc.. with out pulling a muscle.
To your fills, then go LP 100, 120 (can you hit 2400psi)... Tanks are heavier but then you take more off your weight belt. You still end up wearing the some weight just about out of the water. And if he goes cave country, LP is the thing to have from what I understand anyway.

Don't cut yourself short because your a beginner. You can learn scuba very quickly and move up the ladder. It's not rocket science (for most of us). Learn your equipment and take care of it, and it will take care of you!!!
 
ChrisA:
I see you are in So. Cal. That means you will have a 7mm suit on and quite a bit of weight.If you get a steel tank you can remove 4 or 5 pounds of the lead weight. Steel tanks also come in more sizes and types. However here in So Cal. AL80 tanks sell new for $110 if you shop around while steel tanks are right around $300. The price diference means a lot of people use AL80 tanks.

Are you tall or short? Large ort small? If you are female and 110 pounds you can use a much smaler tank the some guy twice your size.

If you ask me I think the PST E7-100 is the perfect tank. It's shorter then an AL80 and hold a lot more air. It is negative even when empty so you can loose 5 pounds of lead it has the hot dip galv. finish which lasts "forever". This tank is so popular that it is hard to find and sells out quickly when available at a premium price. For doing our local wrecks 100 cu ft is a lot of air. You will run out of NDL before your hit the air limit

The E7-100 is cool (I have one on order) but also you can get Faber steels really cheap right now, and they are decent too. I got a faber 85 for $170 which is about 1/2 what the E7 is running for.
 

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