I am relatively new to diving and am kind of lost on the subject of tanks. When looking I have seen there are many options, sizes, types of tanks, and different materials. What is some suggestions on a single tank for a recreational diver who wants to get into wreck diving and possibly cave diving eventually? Thanks for your help.
Primary tank question
- Thread starter Stryker
- Start date
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scubapro50
Contributor
When I first started diving in the late 60's I had two 71.2 cu.ft. steel tanks (rated at 2250 psi) with J valves. They did great with my doublehose but when U.S.Divers came out with a Luxfer aluminum 80 I purchased two of them ( see thread www.scubaboard.com/t85804-.html ) My wife uses two Dacor (Luxfer) aluminum 67 cu.ft. tanks because they are smaller and a better size for her. You must determine which size fits you best and what do you want to do with it. Every tank will whole air but if you want to get into Nitrox or mix gases then a "specialized" tank rated for it may be what you need. As far as steel or aluminum it's your choice. I have several friends that dive with steel 100's and love them (too big for my taste). Try renting several differant sizes and types and see what you like best.
ChrisA
Contributor
Stryker:
I see you are in So. Cal. That means you will have a 7mm suit on and quite a bit of weight.If you get a steel tank you can remove 4 or 5 pounds of the lead weight. Steel tanks also come in more sizes and types. However here in So Cal. AL80 tanks sell new for $110 if you shop around while steel tanks are right around $300. The price diference means a lot of people use AL80 tanks.
Are you tall or short? Large ort small? If you are female and 110 pounds you can use a much smaler tank the some guy twice your size.
If you ask me I think the PST E7-100 is the perfect tank. It's shorter then an AL80 and hold a lot more air. It is negative even when empty so you can loose 5 pounds of lead it has the hot dip galv. finish which lasts "forever". This tank is so popular that it is hard to find and sells out quickly when available at a premium price. For doing our local wrecks 100 cu ft is a lot of air. You will run out of NDL before your hit the air limit
Be warned tha beginners tend to blow through air quickly. You will get over it after a couple dozen dives.
For cave diving you will need a whole new setup. But you are a long ways from the point where you could even begin training for that.
You should rent a few tanks. Many placers around here will rent steel tanks. Renting costs only a little more then an air fill. A tank should be the last peice of ewquipment you buy
Steel is the way to go and bigger is better. High pressure is also advised. If you can find any PST 130's then as a new diver you will have plenty of back gas for an hour long dive staying in NDL. The buoyancy characteristics are wonderful.
An example: Tonight there were four of us diving. 2 divers on double 100's with 2000 - 3000 psi, another diver with a single 80 and me with a single 130 at 3700 psi. The other single diver with the AL 80 swapped out his tank for and HP100. His dive lasted about a 1/2 hour. My dive on 32% walked a very fine line of nearly going into deco and lasted about an hour. I used 2400 psi. Still had 1300 in my E8-130. For me when I go under 1000 psi I start feeling the way most people do when their tanks hit 250! It's a margin of safety that I like having. FWIW my buddy who had 2000 psi in each of his double 100's finished the dive with less than 400 psi.
An example: Tonight there were four of us diving. 2 divers on double 100's with 2000 - 3000 psi, another diver with a single 80 and me with a single 130 at 3700 psi. The other single diver with the AL 80 swapped out his tank for and HP100. His dive lasted about a 1/2 hour. My dive on 32% walked a very fine line of nearly going into deco and lasted about an hour. I used 2400 psi. Still had 1300 in my E8-130. For me when I go under 1000 psi I start feeling the way most people do when their tanks hit 250! It's a margin of safety that I like having. FWIW my buddy who had 2000 psi in each of his double 100's finished the dive with less than 400 psi.
I concur with OE2X, steel (and bigger) is better, BUT, as a beginner, you'll probably find it more convenient to have one AL80. Sport Chalet sells them for $110.
There's some merit in considering an LP steel tank if you're doing a lot of cave diving though. The LP 120's are routinely "cave filled" to as much as 3500psi. But that's for another time, by the sound of it. Also, the HP tank would require a DIN adapter for your regulator (or an insert for the valve to fit your yoke setup). Not a big deal, but just keep it in the back of your mind if you go on vacation or do a boat dive-remember to switch back or carry your tool and adapter in your gear bag as AL80's are the standard rental tank practically everywhere.
Steel has better bouyancy characteristics and they do last quite a long time if filled with DRY air. I have seen some oxygen tanks at work with original hydros of 1915. I doubt you'd ever see an AL tank lasting that long.
There's some merit in considering an LP steel tank if you're doing a lot of cave diving though. The LP 120's are routinely "cave filled" to as much as 3500psi. But that's for another time, by the sound of it. Also, the HP tank would require a DIN adapter for your regulator (or an insert for the valve to fit your yoke setup). Not a big deal, but just keep it in the back of your mind if you go on vacation or do a boat dive-remember to switch back or carry your tool and adapter in your gear bag as AL80's are the standard rental tank practically everywhere.
Steel has better bouyancy characteristics and they do last quite a long time if filled with DRY air. I have seen some oxygen tanks at work with original hydros of 1915. I doubt you'd ever see an AL tank lasting that long.
If he gets into cave diving, he can use the AL80 for a stage bottle so ultimately he isn't wasting his money...
Bigger is better especially when you're new to diving and have a normal SAC of a stressed diver. It allows you to stay down more than just a half hour - which is something your more experienced buddies will appreciate.
Bigger is better especially when you're new to diving and have a normal SAC of a stressed diver. It allows you to stay down more than just a half hour - which is something your more experienced buddies will appreciate.
ChrisA
Contributor
tkrock:
This guy is a beginner, not even certified yet AND he lives is So Cal. He'll likey be doing a lot of beach dives in surf. In a 7mm suit with 25lbs of lead. Then you add a 40 pound tank.
Most beach dives mean walking in your gear down a road. Parking is typically on a bluff overlooking the beach. Beginners have better luck dealing with surf if they cary less weight.
Then you have the problem of our So Cal boats. Some have cruddy compressors and
you can't get an HP tank filled. One of the boats (The Westerly) can't even do 3000 psi
Unless he is a large person in good shape a 120 is just to much tank. You can rent steel tanks here and try them out that way.
Start out with AL80's and go from there... they are commonly used enough that should you decide to change tank sizes and materials later you can resell them if you wish or for stage bottles or recreational dives should you choose to keep them. 
dilligaf368
Guest
I have only 9 tanks all are of Steel. I still have one (out of three) 72cf. from '67 and use it regularly. I got rid of the only alum. tank. (Pre '72) and the shop would not fill them. If the Steel tanks are kept up then they will last a long time. Bill
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