Primary reel

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LM or DTD/Dir zone. Both are more or less the same. But DTD is cheaper.
 
I like the LM for primary reel and the Halcyon spools for safety/jump lines.
 
I use Manta and HOG. Different styles but both excellent quality. The HOG Recon reel is machined as well as any reel I've seen. The clearance between the spool and frame edges will not easily allow the line to get trapped. Though you only need to loosen the screw a turn you still have a good 1/4 inch in the frame. Many reels have the screw going through maybe an 1/8 inch of material so it's easy to go too far and lose it. This one is not like that. Have an 800 here with 24 hi vis line on it. It's brand new. Make me an offer. You may get it.
The machining on the Manta primary is just as good. However it's a 400 ft with #24 line. I have #36 loaded on all my personal reels as I primarily dive wrecks and want the heavier line.
 
All you guys need to do is drill a hole with a number 56 drill bit in the thumb screw just 1/8 from the screw shaft end... reinstall the screw and press in a 3/64 Stainless steel pin into the hole... you'll never lose a screw again...

Jim....
 
That may work for some reels. The higher end ones don't leave that much screw between the frame and the edge of the spool. The idea is that #24 line can't slip between the frame and the spool. On my reels the screw is on the frame closest to the anchor for the shaft of the spool. Not out on the end or coming into contact with the side of the spool.
 
That may work for some reels. The higher end ones don't leave that much screw between the frame and the edge of the spool. The idea is that #24 line can't slip between the frame and the spool. On my reels the screw is on the frame closest to the anchor for the shaft of the spool. Not out on the end or coming into contact with the side of the spool.

Ok... Fix number two... Would you be able to fit a small O-ring on the screw shaft to work as a friction lock ? Or drip a small dot of plastic on the threads ? The other fix is to crimp the threads after running the screw through the threaded hole to stop it from backing out...

Jim...

Jim...
 
Add another Light Monkey vote. The buy in was a little steep but five years later the reel looks, works like new, doesn't jam, and just plain works! The best deal I found on the reel was at Cave Adventurers.
 
LM 400 here, and happy with it. But I lost the locking screw once and it was damn expensive to replace it.
Lost mine the first trip out with it. Actually found a temporary replacement nylon screw. Not pretty but did the job. Been careful not to lose the new one but still have the nylon screw in my save a dive kit just in case.
 
Ok... Fix number two... Would you be able to fit a small O-ring on the screw shaft to work as a friction lock ? Or drip a small dot of plastic on the threads ? The other fix is to crimp the threads after running the screw through the threaded hole to stop it from backing out...

Jim...

Jim...

need to look at it some more, but i'm pondering (if the material is thick enough) countersinking the spool side of the frame so there is room for an o-ring on the stem.......
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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