True from a safety perspective. I'm more concerned about the annoyance of having a light break on me.
Primary Light Recommendation - Rec Night Diving
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I like the DGX600 lights with the buttons. I take 2 on every dive, day or night. Incredible value for a $69 piece of gear (plus like $5 for a boltsnap). They are a little too bright for night dives, even on the low setting, so I sometimes find myself covering the lens with my fingers when I want to look at a critter that will recoil from the bright light. I'm considering picking up a red light for night dives, they seem to disturb the wildlife a bit less.
The chargers they ship with the DGX600 are pretty crappy though, so instead I use an XTAR VC4S charger ($27 on Amazon), recommended by somebody on ScubaBoard, maybe @tbone1004?
The chargers they ship with the DGX600 are pretty crappy though, so instead I use an XTAR VC4S charger ($27 on Amazon), recommended by somebody on ScubaBoard, maybe @tbone1004?
Yes. Yes, you are.
I always had this weird idea that everything electronic AND mechanical has a predetermined number of times it will function as designed - engines, washing machine, light switch. Better conserve number of times I hit that flashlight button because one day it will be the last time and I better be prepared.
Maybe I'm weirder.
Even if we accept your idea, so what? How much functionality are you willing to give up in exchange for a longer component life?
I bought my first of this style of light in 2019 for $50. It's still going strong, but even if its next dive is its last, I'm still glad I got one that I can use one-handed and has a low output option.
And who knows how long it will last? The computer keyboard in my office is an IBM Model M that is over 30 years old. It has had its electronic AND mechanical buttons pressed literally millions of times and still has better feel than any keyboard sold today.
Seepferdchencam
Registered
I have the CX2 as a primary and think it's a great and reliable light. I chose it because of the strobe mode and the ability to run on 21700 or 18650 batteries.
It has two downsides. First, the switch doesn't lock, so you can bump the light on, but with a bit of careful handling this can be largely mitigated. Second, it was painted/coated with black butter. I don't mind the patina, but if you're fussy with gear it's not the light for you.
My backups are Orcatorch D580 which are cheap and cheerful 500ish lumen twist on lights that can run on 3x AAA or 18650. Also very happy with them.
It has two downsides. First, the switch doesn't lock, so you can bump the light on, but with a bit of careful handling this can be largely mitigated. Second, it was painted/coated with black butter. I don't mind the patina, but if you're fussy with gear it's not the light for you.
My backups are Orcatorch D580 which are cheap and cheerful 500ish lumen twist on lights that can run on 3x AAA or 18650. Also very happy with them.
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Yes, Tillytec offer that as a special option. Their lights are twist on/off. No strobe function though.
A few things, though this is a bit late to the party.
Yes, a twist light CAN have multiple brightness levels. I have one. I turn it off and back on quickly to toggle the brightness level.
I attach a bolt snap to the tail of my light and clip it to a D-ring on my chest. The majority of the time, I turn it on and leave it clipped to my chest D-ring. I can point it where I want without unclipping it, which leaves me free to just let go of it at any time and it will dangle pointing straight down, where it will not blind anyone, but will still make it easy for my dive buddy to see me, if we're in low viz. It also makes it easy for me to hold my camera with one hand and shine my light around with the other. If I see something I want to shoot, I can just let go of my light and use both hands on my camera.
Lights I own or have in my possession currently:
Orcatorch D710 (borrowed - I own the rest)
DGX700
DGX600
Xtar D26 Whale
Xtar D26 1600
Big Blue VTL9000P-Max
UWLD LD-40
(and some others)
I do not like push buttons, unless they are piezo buttons and also have some reliable mechanical way to protect the button from presses that accidentally turn the light on (a la the LD-40).
The Xtar 26 1600 has a push button with a "lock" that you disengage by pressing and holding it for a few seconds. That sucks. I have had mine turn on accidentally numerous times in my bag and also while clipped to my harness during a dive, despite being "locked". That is why I don't use them anymore.
The Xtar D26 Whale has a quarter turn mechanical lock on its on/off button. That is much better. But, it can get sand/grit in it that makes it hard to turn. That can be a real problem when wearing gloves. They are bright and the 26650 battery gives them a nice long burn time. But, I don't really use them anymore because they are so (relatively) long and fat and the quarter turn lock being problematic.
The DGX700 is brighter than the D710 and has a slightly bigger spot. It is also claimed to be a little brighter than the DGX600, but I haven't compared them side by side. The DGX700 uses a 21700 battery, same as the D710, so it gets a nice long burn time. The battery has a built-in charger, so all you need to charge it is a wall wart and USB-C cable. Those batteries being $25 - 30 on their own makes the DGX700 at $79 a remarkably good value, too.
The only complaint I have about the DGX700 is the lack of multiple brightness levels. If a quick off/on twist would toggle it to a Low power setting, it would be pretty much perfect.
I bow to the older SB divers who told me this forever ago when I say: I used to shun twist lights and wanted a push button. I didn't want to have to use two hands to turn my light on. Now, I have learned the wisdom that the old-timers tried to share with me. I really do not like push button lights anymore. I've had too much trouble with them. For a "backup" light - that I use as my only or primary light on day dives and some night dives - I just want it to be simple, twist on/off, have 2 brightness levels, be short and slender (i.e. 1 x 21700 battery - so I don't even notice it when it's clipped off and tucked into my harness), and be able to run for over 2 hours on High on a full charge before it starts to really get dim, and have a nice, tight beam.
"1000" lumens is plenty for a "backup" light and actually too much (to me) for a spot light used on night dives. 1000 in quotes because the DGX700 only claims 700. The D710 claims 3000 lumens in Turbo mode and yet the DGX700 is brighter to my eye. I believe they both use the same LED emitter - a Cree XM-L2 - which is rated for a nominal 1000-1100 lumen output (depending on binning and actual supplied voltage), so I do not at all believe that they are putting out such substantially different amounts as 700 vs 3000 makes it sound. I think the Orcatorch claims on output are complete baloney, honestly.
All that said, I have not tried a Dive Rite CX2. It uses a 21700 battery and claims up to 1700 lumens output, with 4 output levels. It is a push button, but the button looks recessed a bit where it would hopefully not get turned on by accident when clipped to my harness.
I shall have to get a CX2 and compare it to my DGX700. If the on/off button is not problematic, it may be a better light - for ME, anyway - than the DGX700. And, Dive Rite are solid. I would kind of expect that a light from them would not have issues with turning on by accident...
@Seepferdchencam - does your CX2 turn on by accident when you actually have it in the water? If so, how are you carrying it? Or is it just an issue when you're out of the water? If that, are you keeping in the case it comes in when you're out of the water or what?
Yes, a twist light CAN have multiple brightness levels. I have one. I turn it off and back on quickly to toggle the brightness level.
I attach a bolt snap to the tail of my light and clip it to a D-ring on my chest. The majority of the time, I turn it on and leave it clipped to my chest D-ring. I can point it where I want without unclipping it, which leaves me free to just let go of it at any time and it will dangle pointing straight down, where it will not blind anyone, but will still make it easy for my dive buddy to see me, if we're in low viz. It also makes it easy for me to hold my camera with one hand and shine my light around with the other. If I see something I want to shoot, I can just let go of my light and use both hands on my camera.
Lights I own or have in my possession currently:
Orcatorch D710 (borrowed - I own the rest)
DGX700
DGX600
Xtar D26 Whale
Xtar D26 1600
Big Blue VTL9000P-Max
UWLD LD-40
(and some others)
I do not like push buttons, unless they are piezo buttons and also have some reliable mechanical way to protect the button from presses that accidentally turn the light on (a la the LD-40).
The Xtar 26 1600 has a push button with a "lock" that you disengage by pressing and holding it for a few seconds. That sucks. I have had mine turn on accidentally numerous times in my bag and also while clipped to my harness during a dive, despite being "locked". That is why I don't use them anymore.
The Xtar D26 Whale has a quarter turn mechanical lock on its on/off button. That is much better. But, it can get sand/grit in it that makes it hard to turn. That can be a real problem when wearing gloves. They are bright and the 26650 battery gives them a nice long burn time. But, I don't really use them anymore because they are so (relatively) long and fat and the quarter turn lock being problematic.
The DGX700 is brighter than the D710 and has a slightly bigger spot. It is also claimed to be a little brighter than the DGX600, but I haven't compared them side by side. The DGX700 uses a 21700 battery, same as the D710, so it gets a nice long burn time. The battery has a built-in charger, so all you need to charge it is a wall wart and USB-C cable. Those batteries being $25 - 30 on their own makes the DGX700 at $79 a remarkably good value, too.
The only complaint I have about the DGX700 is the lack of multiple brightness levels. If a quick off/on twist would toggle it to a Low power setting, it would be pretty much perfect.
I bow to the older SB divers who told me this forever ago when I say: I used to shun twist lights and wanted a push button. I didn't want to have to use two hands to turn my light on. Now, I have learned the wisdom that the old-timers tried to share with me. I really do not like push button lights anymore. I've had too much trouble with them. For a "backup" light - that I use as my only or primary light on day dives and some night dives - I just want it to be simple, twist on/off, have 2 brightness levels, be short and slender (i.e. 1 x 21700 battery - so I don't even notice it when it's clipped off and tucked into my harness), and be able to run for over 2 hours on High on a full charge before it starts to really get dim, and have a nice, tight beam.
"1000" lumens is plenty for a "backup" light and actually too much (to me) for a spot light used on night dives. 1000 in quotes because the DGX700 only claims 700. The D710 claims 3000 lumens in Turbo mode and yet the DGX700 is brighter to my eye. I believe they both use the same LED emitter - a Cree XM-L2 - which is rated for a nominal 1000-1100 lumen output (depending on binning and actual supplied voltage), so I do not at all believe that they are putting out such substantially different amounts as 700 vs 3000 makes it sound. I think the Orcatorch claims on output are complete baloney, honestly.
All that said, I have not tried a Dive Rite CX2. It uses a 21700 battery and claims up to 1700 lumens output, with 4 output levels. It is a push button, but the button looks recessed a bit where it would hopefully not get turned on by accident when clipped to my harness.
I shall have to get a CX2 and compare it to my DGX700. If the on/off button is not problematic, it may be a better light - for ME, anyway - than the DGX700. And, Dive Rite are solid. I would kind of expect that a light from them would not have issues with turning on by accident...
@Seepferdchencam - does your CX2 turn on by accident when you actually have it in the water? If so, how are you carrying it? Or is it just an issue when you're out of the water? If that, are you keeping in the case it comes in when you're out of the water or what?
Seepferdchencam
Registered
The button is recessed and the top is flush with the body of the torch. It does not turn by accident in the water. It was an issue only when I carelessly threw it in the bottom of a crate. Being a modestly quick study I don't do that anymore. I don't use the case.
Edit: @stuartv saw your remarks in the other thread. This review is worth a watch before you buy. Like James I also have a boltsnap attached. Unlike James I use the QRM soft handmount.
Another vote for the "push button" - I suspect the average/vacation diver is far more likely to accidentally flood their light by twisting their light the wrong way, than to have the push-button fail on them. (And if the push button does fail? That's why you carry a backup...).
I have four of the DGX lights that I use as primary lights for recreational diving (and secondary back-ups, for cave; I'm not lugging a can light with me on a shallow reef dive) - would totally recommend them, they're bright, they're affordable, they're reliable. Heck, two of mine are even push-button; never had any issue with sticking or failing, and I've had them for years. The most common issue I've experienced is pure user error....forgetting to charge/change the batteries!
I have- had- four DGX600 torches for several years, the twist ones. For many, twisting the head to turn on/off the light is like the USB three-direction joke, they try one direction and nothing happens, then they try the opposite direction and this is how I got one of them flooded :-(
thus I got one flooded and dead. Also, at depth quite often the head gets pressed and the light turns on by itself. At day dives if it is clipped to the harness you won't notice until the buddy signals you to un-twist it an additional half turn.
Eventually all DGX lights died, one flooded the others the led just shows a barely distinguishable dim. So LEDs are not forever nor do they have "50000 hours" as claimed (I wish I had soooo many night dives to burn out the LED...)
Buttons? I got a cheap dive light that the protruding button was often annoyingly pressed in the gear bag, or almost by anything. So I improvised a button guard and it worked, but after some 50 dives the button stopped functioning at all, now the only way to turn the light on/off is by twisting:
I have an orcatorch D530V that I use with a GoPro, hence have been taking it into hundreds of day&night dives and the button still works like a charm.
Long story short, both types of torches, button or twist can malfunction, just in different ways.
Another thing is the "Lumen Issue". Regardless of manufacturers hilarious claims about lumens, a too-bright torch can be a nuisance: blinds your buddy, other divers, it scares the hell out of the fish, short burn time (or you take a larger torch with larger batteries, weight, cumbersome etc.). The DGX lights were TOO bright for most night dives, fish got scared away and eventually I started diving with the fingers covering more of the lens, or added some white semi transparent cellotape to act as a diffuser. Some button torches can have low power settings: longer burn time, less scared fish, less annoyed buddies, and you don't get dumb blinded trying to read the computer: everyone is happy.
I nowadays use Diverite CX2 for night dives. When needed, I use full bright blast, most of the time the lower power setting. And sometimes attach a difuser which illuminates a wide angle with smooth light. As I have the camera, the button is a HUGE advantage to twisting the head, and the QRM is awesome. For me, this torch is a good compromise. It is a little bulky and large when mounted on a handle, though. See the size difference DGX800/600, Orcatorch vs. CX2:
I don't mind the twisting head, my wife and kids hate them, and they tend to twist heads in the wrong direction ;-)
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